Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

Just about every question has been asked & answered many times.

You might want to review this thread, scroll down to BP0553.

Was wondering about this and if it's feasible to make an anvil stand from reinforced concrete.

Yes about what scale is, no about cannot control the amount of heat. Your heat is controlled by the amount of air and where you place the steel in the fire. Read through this thread for a better explanation.

It's an anvil from the Lost City of Atlantis, reportedly to be off the coast of Florida.

Interesting anvil stand, looks like poured concrete.

My wife is happy with it so as you say, I'll stop "tinkering" with it. Now to move it out of the garage and find a place in the smithy for it. We plan to use it outside a couple of steps from the anvils & vise and hooked up to it's main propane tank.

If you caress the anvils face with hot metal, treat it lovingly and listen very carefully, it will pass on to you the secrets of working metal.

Sometimes the steel fairy's are good to us. I've had them bring me things that I didn't know I needed.

My 30 lb Starr has the same "oil wells" and I just squirt a little 80wt gear oil in them before starting to use it. It doesn't "drip oil" and has been running fine since I got it and poured new babbit bearings. The felt or cotton is a good idea though mainly to keep crud out of the bearings (never considered that). I will fit some to my hammer today.

Yep... hover over the red ebook-free button and the option to download the pdf file all 12hunderd & some pages is there.

How did you know Debi is a minion aficionado ? Here is her version of a favorite minion that she made in a steel fabrication class at Eureka Springs School of the Arts. It's about two feet tall made out of reclaimed items.

The link is the one Big Bill put in. Here it is again. https://books.google.com/books?id=DTcxAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA279&dq=pattison+general+supply+1904&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiCjc_ozYLQAhXGPCYKHZEbCTUQ6AEIHDAA#v=onepage&q=pattison general supply 1904&f=false That takes you to Google Books. If you look on the left side in Google Books you should see a red button that says ebook-free there is a pdf download link there.

Today I finished up the propane forge we were building and gave it a test run. Works like a charm. Then I cut apart one of the two water tanks that followed us home. Started out with a 3 in. air cutoff wheel but found out it was painfully slow. After cutting a slot long enough to get the blade of a reciprocating saw in finished in short order. My wife sees a plasma cut fire pot out of the main part and I see a charcoal forge in the bottom, also got some real heavy rubber that was the bladder which should come in handy around the shop.

I fixed the boo boo about the channel to hold the fire brick, cut it off and leveled it and welded it on again. I fired it up without the kiln shelf floor and it came up to yellow heat in 10 min. I put several pieces of scrap stock in and it got them to welding heat without a problem. I left them in to see if it would melt/burn them and it did not after 20 min. so I guess we are good to go. My wife says we don't need Plistix because bubble alunima is a reflective coating.

Try looking here, your question has been answered many times. Start with forges101. https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/65-gas-forges/

The first two pictures are just after firing it up. After about ten min. http://i68.tinypic.com/9k2g5x.jpg Not sure about the kiln shelf floor, seems to be interrupting the flow (swirl) of the flame and the heat seems to be lower than before. I don't know if ITC100 or Plisitx would help or enlarging the orifice to the next drill size.

I have one that's 55lb and looks identical to your 155lb one. They were made in China, cast iron base with a steel top welded on. They were imported by several farm supply stores several decades ago and predate the HF junk being sold today. I bought mine at a local store Race Brothers and it has served me well for a traveling anvil.

Did you click on the link? It's on Google books see the ebook-free button for pdf download (or bookmark it for online reading) .

Will do, she was upset because our fur kid Daisy dog got bit by a copperhead and her foot (the dogs) swelled up to twice it's size. A quick trip to the vet was in order. The dog is going to be fine and on a 7 day course of antibiotics to prevent any secondary infection. I finished the metal work on the forge. Welded together angle iron channels and welded them to the forge for the fire brick doors. We decided on soft firebrick because we have a lot of it from the kiln's. Also cut some kiln shelf for the floor. I will get some pictures of it running when the sun goes down. Probably will paint it black with 2000 degree high heat paint. Front view would anyone believe me if I say I planned the channels to be on an angle? rear view

Depends on what you put on top and how it's anchored, four 6X6s bolted together to make 12X12 would be more stable.

I doubt that it will be your last burner so go with the 0-30 psi regulator.

When I find a relative thread for what I'm doing, I bookmark it in a folder named Blacksmith. It helps a lot for going back and re-reading.

My wife and I have had some heated discussions about kiln washes so we won't go there. She doesn't know how it will react, outside of the glaze formulas and is not into experimenting.

She has only used it in certain pottery glazes and has no idea how it would work when mixed in a castable refractory or IR reflecting wash.