Spronez

I have to search for who did the math, but as far as fuel use is concerned- a ribbon burner and a na burner use virtually the same amount of fuel in a given amount of time. It comes down to the size of the gas line orifice. In a na burner it is very small, in a ribbon burner it is relatively much larger. So while a ribbon runs with lower pressure, it is spewing out more gas at that lower pressure. A na typically runs at higher pressure but a much smaller stream of gas. Regarding efficiency as it relates to full combustion and spread of even heat- ya typically a ribbon wins out based on its design. But a well built na and forge can do just as fine a job at full combustion. Given the different designs - aimed burn vs a spread - it is more difficult to get an even heat inside the forge chamber, with a na. (Then there's the whole swirl, forge interior shape, etc etc). Sometimes though a hotspot can be just what a blacksmith wants; to direct more heat at a certain place on their work. So efficiency is relative to the work I guess

Resurrection of ancient thread! Threadromancy! Does anyone have more/updated info on these anvils?

Has anyone used with of these, Unicast 70 or Plicast Hymor 3000kk, as a castable refractorycement when building a propane forge? Assuming over high heat ceramic blanket in a typical freon tank body.

Andrew-how has the unicast 70 been for You?

Thanks for the quick responses.

On a group in Facebook I am reading instructions on applying colloidal silica, which seems contrary to what I understood. Here is a quick copy of the instructions I'm curious about: "When I say layers I'm talking about 1" layer of ceramic wool. Instal first layer of blanket spray with water till moist the spray heavy with rigidizer. Till I could see green faintly on the underside of the wool after lifting up a corner. You want both layers soaked threw." I thought the idea was to use as little as possible, to prevent degradation of the insulating ability of the wool? Does the colloidal silica spray once cured no longer reduce the effectiveness of the wool? -because I thought once the wool was made wet, it was wrecked. Thoughts? (Edit- I see when searching in the forum Jasent from here is the same fellow I quoted on fb. If you see this here and there Jasen, thanks for answering twice! Cheers)

Someone on a Facebook group is trying to identify this anvil. All we know is what the pics show. Weighs about 100lbs. Thank you, Chris

I get asked that a lot lol. I don't personally find they trip me up at all. Lots of people seem to figure it would though

My 2 anvils. One is a 90lbs block of 4140 2nd is a Trenton - 80lbs 1914

There is a "U" stamped next to the underside of the pritchel hole and a "C" next to the underside of the Hardy. Are those the initials of people who put those parts of the Anvil together?

Looks like a "T" to me but not crossed evenly. Then 80 A122672 It still weighs 80lbs.

Found an old post that says i can just letcit dry overnight. And going to mix half of the bag and just see how much it covers treating it like a top coat of paint.

Just to follow up. I finally made my forge and have used it a couple of times this past week. Thank you for all your help here guys!

Does anyone have instructions on application and curing process for plistex over my kast o lite? I have a pint (1.5lbs) of it and would like to know how much I should mix/use to coat the forge interior. I also need to know how to fire it without killing it. Thanks in advance.

Rigidizer- is it an absolute must if I'm casting a half inch of kast o lite over the ceramic blanket, then costing plistex on that? doesn't the kast o lite keep the wool in place ?

Thank you wayne. I'll be emailing you soon to order some insawool soon. I spent quite some time last night breaking myself of the feeling that I should continue with the toolbox. it's hard to stop once I get set in plan but I kept coming back to what frosty mentioned above about not getting caught in a corner. Now I need to start planning how I want to tackle the openings of this new shell.

Recently I was cleaning out my garage and under a whole lot of clothes in bags I found a helium tank from a birthday party years ago. it's the same size as a propane tank. I was all set to make the forge with the original body I had planned for but now I am torn. sort of. the helium tank is the better choice by far for the forge body, isn't it? With a 2"layer of kaowool (I'll need to order more) I seem to remember reading I'll want about 1/2" of kast o lite refractory- yes? with a sort of flattening out of the floor using more kast o lite to build it up to this flat floor shape. One thing I am still not clear on is the placement of the burner port. I belive it's supposed to be in the middle of the forge (front to back), then 20 degrees down the side from the top. but then a tangent angle added- that's where I'm unsure (if the rest is right). is the burner supposed to be tilted to aim towards the front a bit?

I was able to source some on ebay. search for ceramic blanket.

Thanks for the quick responses. I'll have to look at ordering kast o lite - I can use that to coat the ceramic blanket as well, right? I'm using a toolbox for the shell.

Hello, Been lurking a while but I haven't been able to find an answer to this. Thanks in advance. I've had a heck of a time finding a shell/body for a forge. Finally have come upon a usable piece. However, to give myself the (small) cavity in it I want, which would be just 3" x 3" x 10", I would need to build it with just 1 inch of ceramic blanket all around, then 1/2" of refractory coating that on 3 sides. The floor would be firebrick on top of the k wool. So- can I get by with a 1 inch kawool liner? I'm not looking to weld. Mostly just heat treat knives done from stock removal; maybe forge eventually.