Worshipdrummer

When coal is burned the sulfur combines with oxygen and the sulfur oxides are released to the atmosphere. Sulfur dioxide (SO2) becomes sulfur trioxide (SO3) when reacting with oxygen in the air. This reacts with water molecules in the atmosphere to form sulfuric acid, a strong mineral acid. This makes rain acidic. This is what I read. I just had the details wrong, it's not from the ash...sorry.+ It is nice to try to help, but when you dont know yourself it is best to wait for those that to do know the answers rather than confuse the issues with wild guesses, as that only spreads misinformation.

I have also read that many old forges are rusted or corroded badly because they were subjected to rain which mixes with coal ash or dust and creates an acidic chemical (sulfuric acid I believe) which corrodes the forge. A layer of clay may help protect the forge if it is subject to get wet.

I have a small Diamondback gas forge (knife maker) which I love but I realized not every project will fit in the small opening. I was working on a prototype digging tool for a friend who likes to metal detect. I got the piece rough shaped and it would no longer fit inside my forge because of it's shape. So to the drawing board I went. Taking material inspiration from Mr. Stevens latest clay forge I set out to make a washtub type forge. I balked when my local supply store wanted $32 for a washtub. I decided to follow Mr. Stevens and use wood for some of the construction mainly because I have a good friend who owns a sawmill and I also have Georgia Red Clay. I tested it out this weekend and it will surely heat steel. Thanks to Mr. Stevens for sharing his ideas.

I read somewhere that to get the sori you add clay to the spine as well and that will cause it to curve toward the spine. If you do not want the sori then do not clay the spine? Thomas do you know if that is true. To the original poster I have not done many hamons and none with 1084 but even at my experience level I have had very good luck with 1095.

I cannot speak for everybody who ends up in an affray with the "mudgeons" but as a FORMER member of that group I will second that the majority of the problem is with the person's EGO. In my field I am respected, trained, educated and experienced having worked in the industry for 22 years. I know what I am taking about and I am confident when I give my answers. I generally will get aggravated when someone asks me the same stupid question for the second time because that indicates to me they did not listen the first time I took my time to try and help them. What I had to realize was that my field of expertise has absolutely nothing to do with blacksmithing and I have (still) next to zero knowledge and just a little experience. I chose to try and learn the craft no one made me, I was not drafted and I also chose to join this site. The point I am trying to make is this, the next time you end up in an argument with a mudgeon take a look in the mirror and ask yourself "am I the problem"? If you honestly consider the question your answer may just be "yes". If so, humble yourself and recognize your role as neophyte and you will find great information here. These guys want to help but they do not tolerate a grown adult asking to be spoon fed while they sit in a recliner and watch T.V. I get it...finally.

OK, now that is funny.

I can see how it is kind of ulu-esq, but that is why I asked, really out of respect mostly. I would never knowingly take credit for another's idea that would be like intellectual theft...

I have been looking for a design to use for cleaning fish. This might be it, one could choke up on the haft for cutting activities and then use the lower haft for chopping backbones and stuff. Forgive my ignorance but is this an original design (tool)? I would hate to attempt to imitate it without permission if it was.

I meant that as kind of a joke...I just do not do the LOL thing.

The ant bed trick will work but be sure to attach it to a tree or some animal will walk off with it. I lost an entire sheep skull once that way. Also, check with local taxidermists because with European Mounts becoming very popular now some are keeping populations of flesh eating beetles to strip bone. Works very well.

I finished this one over the weekend and made an attempt at a Hamon which I have very little experience doing. A friend asked me to make it for him and to "antique" the finish so I figured why not try. Pointers are always welcome. P.S. Thomas I did not ignore your advice on the finger stop I heat treated this one before you told me to incorporate it. Black G-10 scales and 1095 steel.

I have an old round file which should be the exact size I need to forge that in. I also have an ingenious method for adding a holder to my forging...I call it a 10 year old son. He loves to work so he jumps at the chance to do any manner of forge activity. I have a request from a friend to forge a Nessie with a 12-13 inch blade maybe 17 overall or so. The finger stop will work very well on that project. I will post a picture of my attempt.

The finger stop is a good idea I will be stealing that one.

Thanks for the nice comments guys, The Nessie is my personal favorite so far, I actually saved it for myself. The rest I gave away and I traded one away. I am working on different finish techniques this weekend, think I will try Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown first on a Bowie I am working on now.

Hello Crack, I am new to the Hamon process as well. I have attempted two the first failed because my clay came off in quench and the second was successful so my knowledge here is mainly academic. I would suggest you search here for previous topics on Hamons and if you cannot find what you want go to youtube and search for a video on the topic. There are several good videos there that helped me a lot. A few things the guys here will want to know is specifically what kind of steel are you using? D-2, A-2, O-1 etc. Some steels take a Hamon better than others, also, what quench medium will you be using? I would also tell them what you will be using to etch the blade as well. I use white vinegar first and later I hand rubbed mine with lemon juice and a cotton make up pad I got at the drug store. I was happy with my results the second time but I do not feel qualified to instruct you on the steps involved in the process.

Ha, I really had not noticed those were all straight lines for the most part. Kind of a waste when I could have made them into a stop which would look better too...Thanks. I like dropping the Ricasso down because I make most of my sheaths out of Kydex and that gives the Kydex something to grip and the knife sort of clicks into place when you return it to the sheath.

When I first began to post here I ended up in a misunderstanding with a couple of the "Curmudgeons" mainly because I failed to understand what they were trying to tell me. I got aggravated and decided to just do it on my own. Turns out, it was the best thing I could have done because I realize now that the reason they were aggravated with me was because I did not know how to ask questions efficiently or really even accurately. This was because I had next to zero experience with steel and knife making. After some months of solid working (some success and some failures) I am now grinding freehand, standing in front of the grinder with elbows locked to my side etc. I have had to spend some time in practice and I have much yet to learn but I am beginning to understand. My point is the best advice I can give someone interested in learning how to make knives is read, read, read many previous topics and then forge, forge, forge and grind, grind, grind so that you can earn some knowledge for yourself before you ask these guys to instruct you completely. Have some working knowledge and then approach these guys for advice and I believe it will go smoother. That being said, this is what I have been up to recently and I would very much appreciate the pointers your experienced and trained eyes can give. All of the knives below were made from 1095.

I agree that this should be the end of this topic. I have spoken down to no one and as for an inflated image of myself I have already admitted more than once that I am learning and attempting to ask question in order to learn more. It was this quote " Or are you complaining you can't play Liszt properly on the piano after a week of practice?" and others like it from other threads which I was referring to when I spoke about how adults should speak to each other. All other advise, including yours, given in this thread was very helpful and appreciated and was in no way insulting. I believe you and I have some how missed each other here and that is regrettable.

Thanks for the answer on my lines after refining my jig and sander a little I got better lines this weekend. As for the rest, I am trying to learn that is why I am here. I meant it when I said I do not know what I do not know. I do not like stumbling around in the dark when I can ask someone to turn the light on. I just do not see the need in insulting people for amusment. All of that being said, text is a very poor means of communication so it is very possible I have misconstrued some of the responses on this forum. In thinking about the people who I have worked with for the past 20 years if someone from the outside watched us they would likely think we hated each other because of how we act, but in reality the opposite is true...

True, but I found it much easier to learn than Blacksmithing. Just burnish the edges well, it will correct a lot.

"Does Blacksmithing have a place in today's society"? A reasonable paraphrase of the original question. To answer it I point your attention to the Antikythera mechanism. Found by divers in the waters off of Antikythera it has been dated to around 100-205 B.C. roughly. The device was so sophisticated and advanced, scientists are still debating over what it's purpose was. Scientists thought (prior to the discovery) that the people of that time period were incapable of that kind of craftsmanship. In fact, once that technology was lost to history it does not appear again until roughly the 14th century. My point is this, if we do not make a place for Blacksmithing in today's society then all that has been learned, all of the knowledge that has been earned for centuries will be lost at some point. It is our responsibility to pass this knowledge on to those who are interested so it will survive and not be lost. The cool part is that by imparting your knowledge, your way of doing things, your thoughts and methods a part of you will live forever.

Leatherwork (sheaths) are not that difficult to do. A couple of simple tools, (Hobby Lobby) a pair of needles, some synthetic sinew and your set. Look up a video on how to do a saddle stitch, learn it, and you are half way there.

Maybe (Guidance + Effort) x (Talent + Time) Perseverance = skill

I really like the handmade look (hammer marks and stuff) of those blades. Stormcrow, who's work I follow on here, does a similar finish on his blades. Do you mind if I ask you to give a brief run down on how you get the consistent look.

I was drawing out some longer stock the other day and I was lamenting the fact that my forge (Diamondback single burner) does not have any kind of stock/tool rest so I had to support the longer stock by stacking firebrick under it. Then the light bulb came on...I thought, "Why am I so stupid"? I can shape and move metal. I grabbed some round stock and about 15 minutes later I had a little custom rest that attaches to my forge and is adjustable with a simple magnet. To me there is nothing cooler than that. I should have started learning this craft a long time ago.