Worshipdrummer

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About Worshipdrummer

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Augusta, Georgia
  • Interests
    Making stuff, hunting, fishing, woodsman, etc.

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  1. When coal is burned the sulfur combines with oxygen and the sulfur oxides are released to the atmosphere. Sulfur dioxide (SO2) becomes sulfur trioxide (SO3) when reacting with oxygen in the air. This reacts with water molecules in the atmosphere to form sulfuric acid, a strong mineral acid. This makes rain acidic. This is what I read. I just had the details wrong, it's not from the ash...sorry.+ It is nice to try to help, but when you dont know yourself it is best to wait for those that to do know the answers rather than confuse the issues with wild guesses, as that only spreads misinformation.
  2. I have also read that many old forges are rusted or corroded badly because they were subjected to rain which mixes with coal ash or dust and creates an acidic chemical (sulfuric acid I believe) which corrodes the forge. A layer of clay may help protect the forge if it is subject to get wet.
  3. I have a small Diamondback gas forge (knife maker) which I love but I realized not every project will fit in the small opening. I was working on a prototype digging tool for a friend who likes to metal detect. I got the piece rough shaped and it would no longer fit inside my forge because of it's shape. So to the drawing board I went. Taking material inspiration from Mr. Stevens latest clay forge I set out to make a washtub type forge. I balked when my local supply store wanted $32 for a washtub. I decided to follow Mr. Stevens and use wood for some of the construction mainly because I have a good friend who owns a sawmill and I also have Georgia Red Clay. I tested it out this weekend and it will surely heat steel. Thanks to Mr. Stevens for sharing his ideas.
  4. I read somewhere that to get the sori you add clay to the spine as well and that will cause it to curve toward the spine. If you do not want the sori then do not clay the spine? Thomas do you know if that is true. To the original poster I have not done many hamons and none with 1084 but even at my experience level I have had very good luck with 1095.
  5. I cannot speak for everybody who ends up in an affray with the "mudgeons" but as a FORMER member of that group I will second that the majority of the problem is with the person's EGO. In my field I am respected, trained, educated and experienced having worked in the industry for 22 years. I know what I am taking about and I am confident when I give my answers. I generally will get aggravated when someone asks me the same stupid question for the second time because that indicates to me they did not listen the first time I took my time to try and help them. What I had to realize was that my field of expertise has absolutely nothing to do with blacksmithing and I have (still) next to zero knowledge and just a little experience. I chose to try and learn the craft no one made me, I was not drafted and I also chose to join this site. The point I am trying to make is this, the next time you end up in an argument with a mudgeon take a look in the mirror and ask yourself "am I the problem"? If you honestly consider the question your answer may just be "yes". If so, humble yourself and recognize your role as neophyte and you will find great information here. These guys want to help but they do not tolerate a grown adult asking to be spoon fed while they sit in a recliner and watch T.V. I get it...finally.
  6. I can see how it is kind of ulu-esq, but that is why I asked, really out of respect mostly. I would never knowingly take credit for another's idea that would be like intellectual theft...
  7. I have been looking for a design to use for cleaning fish. This might be it, one could choke up on the haft for cutting activities and then use the lower haft for chopping backbones and stuff. Forgive my ignorance but is this an original design (tool)? I would hate to attempt to imitate it without permission if it was.
  8. I meant that as kind of a joke...I just do not do the LOL thing.
  9. The ant bed trick will work but be sure to attach it to a tree or some animal will walk off with it. I lost an entire sheep skull once that way. Also, check with local taxidermists because with European Mounts becoming very popular now some are keeping populations of flesh eating beetles to strip bone. Works very well.
  10. I finished this one over the weekend and made an attempt at a Hamon which I have very little experience doing. A friend asked me to make it for him and to "antique" the finish so I figured why not try. Pointers are always welcome. P.S. Thomas I did not ignore your advice on the finger stop I heat treated this one before you told me to incorporate it. Black G-10 scales and 1095 steel.
  11. I have an old round file which should be the exact size I need to forge that in. I also have an ingenious method for adding a holder to my forging...I call it a 10 year old son. He loves to work so he jumps at the chance to do any manner of forge activity. I have a request from a friend to forge a Nessie with a 12-13 inch blade maybe 17 overall or so. The finger stop will work very well on that project. I will post a picture of my attempt.
  12. The finger stop is a good idea I will be stealing that one.
  13. Thanks for the nice comments guys, The Nessie is my personal favorite so far, I actually saved it for myself. The rest I gave away and I traded one away. I am working on different finish techniques this weekend, think I will try Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown first on a Bowie I am working on now.
  14. Hello Crack, I am new to the Hamon process as well. I have attempted two the first failed because my clay came off in quench and the second was successful so my knowledge here is mainly academic. I would suggest you search here for previous topics on Hamons and if you cannot find what you want go to youtube and search for a video on the topic. There are several good videos there that helped me a lot. A few things the guys here will want to know is specifically what kind of steel are you using? D-2, A-2, O-1 etc. Some steels take a Hamon better than others, also, what quench medium will you be using? I would also tell them what you will be using to etch the blade as well. I use white vinegar first and later I hand rubbed mine with lemon juice and a cotton make up pad I got at the drug store. I was happy with my results the second time but I do not feel qualified to instruct you on the steps involved in the process.