Smoggy

I suspect the OP lives in an area where it is difficult/expensive to obtain welding rods, it would help if we knew where. The primary task of arc welding flux is to provide the conditions to permit a stable arc and form a molten pool (try welding with an uncoated rod) it does this by providing an inert atmosphere at the arc. In most cases CO2. Ergo a simple wrap of paper (can be applied damp and dried) to an appropriate thickness will work. In the posted video they use chalk (calcium carbonate) and as Frosty mentions sawdust (again carbon bearing). Powdered charcoal would be another alternative,so that part is fairly simple to achieve. As has been mentioned above, the flux does not have to be coated on the rod but may be pilled over the weld area, which is fine for welding on a reasonably flat surface but unsuitable for overhead! The damp paper wrap method also provides for the easy inclusion of other "ingredients". Secondary task of the flux is to promote a clean weld by removing of impurities, which hopefully form as a slag over the weld rather than inside. In the video, calcium in the chalk may be helpful, I'm unsure. I think i would start by including proprietary fluxes depending on what you have available, borax being an obvious choice to start with. However if you can't get proprietary arc rods, can you get fluxes? I suspect not. Let us know why you need/want to make rod coatings and where you are and also what you intend welding. Then maybe we can make suggestions as to what you could try. Be Aware, making such coatings, especially from unrefined materials, carries a risk of producing fumes which may be many times more toxic than standard formulations and precautions should be taken!

Welcome Navaja, please insert your locations into your profile, that way we'll know if you are close by anyone that may be able to help you out every time you post. I'm not overly into blade smithing but I do find the technical details interesting, and the asthetics of some of the work posted on these boards no less than amazing. Do you flit back and forth or are you migratory, spending the winter in warmer climes?

They look just fine to me, I'd swap !# and 4# for mounting (my preference) and I don't think any coats will be damaged in use unless they have pockets full of lead shot!

Turned out well I say but...... You do realise you will now HAVE to knock up a mukame gane guard for that now don't you........lol

Do you have a lathe of any description?

I've never seen one of these let alone used one in any capacity, but I'm guessing they work well as a solid fuel stove! If you have no use for it as such, I'm sure someone would be willing to pay good money for it which you could then be use to build a really good gas forge with some input from the experienced on this forum. Besides, by the time you stump up for a bottle, regulator, hose, burner and refractory to convert that stove, you've almost completed a full ground up build of a "standard" gas forge......only requiring a housing and stand to complete. I'm a great one for giving things a second life, but only after the first has expired and then it has to be appropriately suited to it's new carrier. What would I use that for?.....as a stove in the forge for processes requiring more moderate heat, or heat treatments, I have a gas bottle stove for such things as...... charcoal production, low temp metal melts, case hardening soaks and slow annealing, distillation, drying shot blasting medium, reduction, but mainly for just warming the place up and most importantly ...................boiling the kettle!

Throw it in the "possibiities" pile......you never know what's going to come your way next and make those plans obsolete.

No end of possibles with those "design features". As for a vice, I think I would be looking at a stepped jaw set up, using those edge holes as "jaw hardies". front jaw needs only a short screw as the rear jaw could be stepped along the rest of the holes, even across to the other side for if needed! Such a ice could be made to take signficant punisment and overhang the edge for location and tall pieces. p.s. please be aware if your magnetic hammer gets warm it may fall off the anvil!

LOL, You've just got yersel in a flumox! Back out there today and you'll drop them in first time no problem. Unless they are not a matched set of jaws!!!!!

"... I use the bottom pan section of a pressure cooker for water and a small fire extinguisher for oil ( powder type) ..." Yes, make sure you do not use the water filled extinguishers for oil! (sorry, couldn't resist)

I'm not a professional........but i suspect I will enjoy reading the replies.

Nor did they have modern varieties of steels and other metal alloys that these so called old school smiths will happily use. I have no power in my smithy, I don't intend fitting any bar battery powered lighting......I guess the old school guys use a lot of candles and no PPI bar a leather apron and damp rags! I don't need it for what I'm doing and as I am in close proximity to the neighbours I need to make as little noise as possible. When I do need to grind, I can do it elsewhere. but as is I can happily forge late into the evening when next doors children are in bed and not disturb anyone. The only time I can envisage working in a method which is totally commensurate with a bygone age is for re-enactments. p.s. Your vid linked above does not want to play at the moment Andy.......however I have previously enjoyed other vids you have posted cheers.

As stated above, as long as the weld does the job it's a good one and pretty will come with practice, likewise the tongs, a fair first effort. It is good to see that you are making your own tools.

I agree Frosty, splitting wedges are made to be hit, but they were using a maul. Now I know some of my axes are soft enough to hit but I prefer not to, however my maul is hard. I doubt I could split a shard off a sledge on a soft axe unless I had damaged the sledge previously. My point being safety glasses are no substitute for working in an safe manor, That shard could have been a large chunk, large enough to cause more damage if it had of hit the lad somewhere critical......no safety glasses I know of protect your wedding tackle or the artery in your neck. PPI is the second line of protection, the first is knowledge. the less knowledge you have the more likely you are to need the PPI.

Ernie, you asked a question, if you read what I posted, you will see, I answered it. I aslo provided you with additional information. I added a emoticon at the end of the post to convey a tongue in cheek reply. I will however comply to your "throttle down" request......consider the throttle closed!

Absolutely, if you are going to misuse your tools, or do not know what you are doing, be sure to wear safety glasses!

Where did you get your forge construction info from Ernie? I'll guess it was not from reading the posts on this forum, had it been, you would have known not to use cement. You would have also known that when the likes of Frosty and the other learned members who have posted above tell you to omit the cement......you thank them for their insight and omit the cement!

I've not come across this type of gauges before, can we have more pics of one of them from other angles with dimensions please and details of the table from the lid,(can't quite make out the details from the photo) I suspect either measuring or setting out usage but that's about as much as I can guess from the info provided except that the taper and pairing will not be insignificant!

Well I think we've about gotten to the root of it now so maybe time to crown it off and try for a change of pitch!

I can't tell from the photo if that is a UNC or Whitworth thread, but it's obviously a right hand index

I shall be following this thread with great interest.......

I've not, if I was attempting to make a firescreen i wouldn't make it with curved, I'd make it "faceted".

I use it, mainly tools/tooling. But at some point, my production will exceed my requirements......if I work fast enough or live that long! I have made the odd item for others once in a while, the last I remember making was a simple wood fire poker which reminds me, I still haven't finished his log tongs...!

.....torsion and compression.

" ... I will have to wait for spring to dig up the clay. It's frozen as hard as iron right now. ..." light a fire on it......