Dave Hammer

How long are your toe nails?

I don't think there is any reason the shank needs to be anything special. It's only job is to hold the hardy tool in place. The shoulders of the hardy tool around the shank take the shock of use. I've seen folks use square tubing for shanks. As far as fit.... A hardy should be EASY to put in and take out by hand (a little play).

If you are determined to have metal doors, make them "swinging" in some way, with a design that allows you to replace the door and hinges. Anything that contains the door (like a track), will eventually burn and warp (as will the door) and you will have binding. Also.... If your door lifts, have a swinging arm that pulls up with it (with a saw-toothed side) that will hold the door up if you want to leave it open. AND.... a long handle, or a slot that you use a long handle in if you will want to open or close the door while the forge is hot (and you will sometimes). I have made forges with all these things, and have learned that the sliding light-firebrick works best for me. The forge below is one I made years ago. I thought the sliding door was clever (track is 3/16th angle iron, door is 3/8ths plate), and it was until I used the forge a lot. The photo shows what eventually will happen with any plate slider because there is no way to insulate it. The track has partially burned away... and the door, believe it or not, warped enough that I had to take it out to flatten it.

Thanks LongHunter.... Philip.... WHAT! No check?

I used to put metal doors on the forges I made. Later.... (and better)... I started putting "C" channel on the ends of the forges... Then using soft brick as sliding doors. Some folks just stack the bricks, but I like them to be held in place so they can't fall over. If your forge opening is wider, just use more channel, and two bricks. Works for me, first time.... every time. Soft bricks can easily be cut with any saw (wear a mask if you are worried about particulate).

This is my primary anvil. I've been told it's a Peter Wright, but I don't know for sure. I haven't done any research. It weighs around 300 lbs. I like a tree stump (white Oak) for an anvil stand. I cut slots (all the way around) near the top and bottom so I can "bind" the block with steel bands. I make the bands so they can be tightened into the stump. I also put hardware on the sides so I can hang a swage block and a number of hardies on the block. The "Z" that can be seen on the front of the block swings up and locks for a "helper" with holding. I used a chainsaw to cut the stump into shape. The bottom of the base is slightly wider than the top, so it's shaped like a pyramid with a flat top.

I'll be there. Looking forward to it.

I wouldn't know what local papers are published in your area, but in the United States it is common for there to be regional papers that are didicated to selling and buying used things (almost like a flea market newspaper). The papers have names like "Thrifty Nickel", or "Peddler", or something similar. Usually, these papers are sold (or are free) at convience stores or news stands. I would put an ad in one of those papers, saying something like "Budding young blacksmith is looking an anvil, forge, hammers and tongs (and anything else blacksmith related)". You might be suprised what comes out of the woodwork. Good Luck!

John B... Aspirated burners do seem to work better with a flare on them. You can generally buy stainless steel flares (online and at tail-gating sales) for about 6-10 dollars, depending upon the source and the size of the pipe. If you are making your burners and want to save a few dollars, that flare can just be the next size pipe (about three inches long) slid over the burner pipe (and tightened to it with a set screw). The position of that kind of flare is a little more critical on the pipe (tune it outside the forge). A flare is almost a necessity if you are trying to "tune" the burner outside of a forge (a burner, outside a forge, without a flare doesn't want to stay burning), but that same burner will run in a forge without a flare. Lukas Jacobs... Kao-wool is a thermal blanket (insulation), which looks similiar to fiberglas insulation batting, but much denser (and heavier). It is used to line most commercial propane forges I am familiar with. Kao-wool is a brand name, among many (Dura-blanket is another brand). Thermal blanket comes in various grades and densities, varying in the amount of heat it can stand without damage (2300 to 3000+ degrees F). Most folks don't get their propane forges hotter than 2300 degrees, so the least expensive thermal blanket is usually used. Thermal blanket is usually bought in 1 or 2" thicknesses, 24 inches wide. The difference in prices for varying temperature ratings, may be substantial. Castable refactory (usually hard cement type coating) can be used to line an entire forge, but the forge will take longer to heat up to get ready for heating metal. A thermal blanket, with a sealing reflecltive coating (like ITC-100, or Plistix-900) on it, is the fastest heating environment in a forge. Thermal blanket (and its coating) must be considered a consumable, and needs to be replaced occasionally (once every couple years or so). A hard refactory, although it causes you to use a lot more propane to get to forging heat, should last for many more years before replacement is necessary (if ever). For me, the thermal blanket (and its time to forging heat) is more desirable for the walls and ceiling of the forge. I always use a hard floor, be it a soft brick, semi-hard brick, or castable (or ramable plastic) refactory (cement). When you shop for thermal blanket, fire bricks or castable refactory (or anything you are going to line a forge with, you shoud ask what maximum temperature the product is rated for (and already have a good idea what your actual needs are. If all you are going to do is heat metal for forging, 2300 degree rated materials are probably OK. If you are going to forge weld or melt metal for pouring, higher temperature ratings may be necessary. There is a great deal of information available online if you Google "making propane forges".

Lukas.... I would recommend you plan for both gas and coal forges. If you have welding and scrounging skills, a gas forge can be built easily and very economically (at least compared to commercial models). Nothing replaces the versatility and wonderment of working with a coal forge, and depending upon what you want to make/create/repair, a coal forge may be the only reasonable option (size and shape of some things are not gas-forge friendly). A gas forge is VERY convenient and more suitable for many things. Assuming you have the necessary skills, I recommend building a small gas forge first, play with it, and learn what your needs/wants might be for one. The simplest one I've made is illustrated below. It has a 6 inch pipe body, with channel iron welded on each end to hold a soft firebrick. Soft firebrick is EASILY sawed to desired shape with any type of handsaw (be sure to wear a mask while doing it, and/or have ventilation (a fan) that blows dust away from you while cutting them). Some folks just set bricks in front (and back) of a forge, but I like to have them held in place without the likelyhood of falling (soft firebricks will sometimes break just falling over).. I also weld a small 3/4" pipe coupler on the bottom of the forge, so I can put the forge on a pipe petastal and not require a table for it (I cut the couplers in half so they are shorter, and I can use the forge on a table if I wish to). One more thing.... a lot of folks like to make a forge light (by weight). Personally, I don't. Although light forges work fine, I like the tools I make heavy, so they can be moved around without being damaged. Although it is not difficult to build them, if you're a little hesitant to make the burners, they (burners) can be purchased online without great cost (google Larry Zoeller, and look for forge parts on his website). For this small forge I used a single piece of 1-inch thermal blanket (like koa-wool) and (initially) a small semi-hard firebrick for the floor. The thermal blanket should be put in first (all the way around), then the brick nestled in on the bottom. Soft brick (cut to shape) could be used for the floor IF you are never going use flux in the forge. I have starting using flux resistant refactory for my floors, but hard brick is more economical and actually worked well. Only one brick is needed for the floor of this forge. Good Luck....

Seriously..... practice.

Find a mentor, then practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice.

Is this your first week forging?

How about "The Arnell Striker"? Or "Aussie Striker"

Madmike.... If you want to see an extended (over five hours) video of John's hammer in use by three industry experts, order the UMBA video RD119. You should be able to find it on the UMBA website at UMBA Online I'm not sure videos are sold internationally, buy it wouldn't hurt to send a note to the Librarian (Roger Degner) and ask. If you go to the website listed above, and click on "Library", you will find an email and snailmail address for him. He provides these videos for $5 each (with a $2 mailing fee (regardless of number of videos ordered) within the states). I have no idea what international shipping would be, but I assure you it will be worth it.

Don't weld handles on. If you have a power hammer, you can make your own dies and draw the handle out from the same stock.

If you put "Google" in image mode (click on "image" in the upper left of the Google home page), then search for "blacksmith clipart", you will get a gaggle of clipart.

If you want to see another blacksmith (George Dixon) make a square corner with round stock, you can order the RD3 video from UMBA. Total cost, including shipping would be $7.00. Got to their website (http://www.umbaonline.org/) and click on "Library" for information.

If you have a high-amp arc welder (225 amps or larger), it would be easy to "blow" out corners on the hole you have drilled to make it square for fitting in a piece of square tubing. Just crank up the amperage as high as it will go, then use 5/32 (or larger) rods. Draw a box around the hole with a silver grease pencil so you can see where you need strike the arc to make the corners. Strike an arc on the side of the circle, then just push the rod down into the steel a little bit at a time, pushing the puddle into the hole. It will take a lot of rods, but you can make a square out the round hole fairly easy. It will not be neat, but it will work. Be sure you keep your feet away from the slag (or whatever it's called) that will be blown down through the hole. After you can put your square tubing in the hole, weld it in from the top and bottom, then grind the surface flat. Practice the "blowing" on a piece of one inch thick piece before you attack your target project. I have done this many times to make a small hole into a larger one, or to "blow" out an odd shape I needed in plate steel. This is how I cut the hole in my propane forges for the burner tubes. This will work, and it will likely be the least expensive way to get it done. If you are really good with an arc welder, you might not need to weld in square tubing (not likely though).

philip in china... Thanks for your observation. Others have also thought it might be a Vaughans. The design of the dry tue certainly is similar to one of their tue designs. I have sent them an email (thanks for the link) with the picture I posted here, asking if it is one of their earlier offerings (and if not, could they help identify its source). Thanks again, for everyone who has expressed an interest...

BT.... Thanks. I like those old ads. Especially the prices.... Well, maybe not the prices, I hate to think about today's prices increasing at the same rate over the next 30 years.

tetnum... thanks for the link. I just hadn't noticed advertising for belt grinders that included the contact pulley diameter that way in the description. I use my belt grinders a lot, but haven't focused on making knives yet... soon though, I expect. I hope to be making damascus billets later this fall. I learn something everytime I log onto these forums...

Can you post a picture of it? I'm not sure what 2 x 6 x 72 means with regards to a belt grinder.

Sounds like con...fusion to me. It'll be interesting to know how much focused mirror surface would be necessary to heat 4 inches of 1 inch square solid to forge welding temps.... More than you think, I'd be willing to bet.

If you are using the edge of the anvil with half-faced blows to neck down for the stem, be sure you have a reasonably-radiused edge to do it on. I was having similiar (cracking and breaking) problems with the stems on leaves I was making because the transition was too much of a right angle. I solved my problem by using a more-radiused edge and also leaving the leaf-stem transition thicker until most of the rest of the work was done. If I feel that the stem is too thick near the leaf, I thin it a little with direct hammer blows before I bend it to the shape I like.