Dave Hammer

If I remember correctly, a broad axe is a hand tool, not a struck tool. It's hard for me to imagine that it would be dangerous to use it if it were welded with modern equipment. Just be sure the handle installation has proper integrity.

Why not just ship the ram to Bergman?

Steel recycling yards frequently have used forklift tines. Also, I've seen them sold on eBay.

I made a number of tongs to meet my specific needs. These are two that I use a lot for flat and/or small objects.

I wouldn't even consider a soldered joint on a forge... Too much danger if it is melted out or it fails.

IMHO, drilling would be the only sensible solution.

Valentin.... Most of the cost, and thus requiring the most income, in most small businesses, is employee's salaries and benefits. If you believe you can enjoy blacksmithing, and a living can be made (such as when your father owned the business) with a smaller shop, you might consider reducing your business staff to one or two (you and one employee that can get the selective work done). Continuing to work in a small business that has no joy is not a good thing. Take a careful accounting what what your options are before you make major changes.

I like round forges because it's easier to put the thermal blanket in. I have made several forges (box and round). My normal process for round forges is to put a one inch blanket in (all the way around), then a floor (soft or semi-hard half thickness brick, or refractory).. then another inch of thermal blanket from the sides of the floor around the top. Then a coating like ITC-100 or Plistix-900.

John Larson would be happy to have you visit his shop and do a test run on one of his hammers. His shop is just a bit North of Baltimore, MD. His contact information is on the website you referenced. He has a lot of very satisfied customers....

cwblacksmith... Check out item # 280247392397 on eBay. It's a little more reasonable.

I get new leaf-spring drops from a spring shop. I like that because it eliminates the possibility of stress fractures that can be there with old springs. I take a small trinket each time I go ask if I can dumpster dive. Can't beat free tool steel.

Thomas Powers.... We lived in Albuquerque in the late 70's. Our favorite part of the country. There are lots of things I miss about the desert Southwest, one of which is the flea markets. I bought tools there for a couple bucks that I still use today. Raleigh, NC had a good one too in the early 80's (don't know about today).

Busted!!!!

Don't think I don't have heaps and piles too. Just no room for them in my shop.

For shorter stock, I have another stationaly storage rack. A friend of mine gave me some short (about 17" long, 8" wide) pieces of metal that came from dis-assembed computer racks. They are, essentially, short pieces of 8" C-channel about 1/8" thick. The flanges are about an inch wide. Very strong metal stock. I cut slots (cross-ways) in two 7 foot long 2x8s every 6 inches. The ends of the C-channel fit tightly into the slots. After I installed all the metal shelves, I screwed a 2x8 on the top and bottom of the structure to hold it all together. I then added a bracket (just a piece of angle iron) on two of the shelves (in the back) and screwed those brackets to a stud in the corner of my shop near the shop door. I put all my short (about 10" or less in length) stock/scrap in this rack. When my shop (garage) door is open, it is very accessable from the side. I keep my long stock in a vertical rack beside this.

Chris... Of course, you, or anyone, can copy this idea. I’m glad you like it. The best part of this type of forum is sharing and learning from the experience of others. This material/scrap cart has turned out to be one of the best ideas I've had for my shop. I push it out of the way back between tools (drill press and milling machine), then pull it out (if I need to) so I can see all the pieces in it, find what I need, then push it back out of the way. Frosty had it right... I made this (mostly) from scrap (except the wheels). Fortunately, the scrap yard I go to in Delaware frequently has short pieces of heavy square tubing and large pipe. The compartments can be made from anything you have around, or can scrounge. Just be sure the length of the compartments are tall enough so the stock won’t splay out too much (this will only be a problem for a short time, because it will soon not have room to splay). I welded 1/2 inch round inside the square tubing to make compartments in the square tubing. I welded the compartment pattern a couple inches up from the bottom also. This helps pieces from getting jammed together too much in the bottom. I cut a slight angle on the bottom of the square tubing so the stock lays back a little (stays neater). Not too much tilt, or the cart will want to tip when it's loaded. I welded all the compartment pieces (square tubing and 3” pipe) together upright on a flat surface, then cut a piece of 3/4 dense pressboard slightly oversized for the bottom (metal would be better). I used 4-inch hard-rubber tired (cast iron spokes and roller bearings) wheels from Harbor Freight. I use these wheels (4 and 5 inch) a lot for tool bases. They are rated for around 300 lbs per wheel, and they hold up very well. HF frequently has these wheels on sale for $3 to $5, depending on the style and size. I consider them one of the best values they have. I generally use two stationary and two swivel wheels. It makes it easier to maneuver the tool around where I want it to go. The handle is heavy square tubing (1.25 inch), that is attached with a single bolt through a heavy bracket. Make this up/down swivel, and HEAVY is important here because I push the handle sideways to turn the cart. When there is a lot of weight in the cart, it takes a fair amount of pressure sideways to turn the cart. I bolted the compartments to the base so it wouldn't slide (weld if you use a metal base) with a threaded rod through the base (threaded rod is welded to a pipe in the front). Another useful tool is a little flatbed cart I made (actually this one has an angle iron (up) frame, so it’s a low-sided trailer (flatbed would be better sometimes). I put heavy 6” all metal wheels on this because I frequently use it for moving around heavy projects, motors, etc. Same base and handle idea as the stock cart, just heavier wheels and bed (all metal).

I'll take a couple more pictures tomorrow and post them.

gevensen.... I'm not comfortable publishing Patrick's phone number online, but if you know how to use Yahoo's people search, you can find him. He lives in Beloit, WI. Tell him I gave you his name.... Dave Hammer

arftist..... I wouldn't mind knowing where THAT scrap yard is. There aren't any within a hundred miles of where I live (that I know of) that will let anyone in for purusing. I need to go to Delaware or Richmond, VA.

This is how I store my scrap. Then I can find what I need when I have a use for it.

Patrick Nowak is probably the best resource for information on Bradley helves. He reads and posts on most of the blacksmith forums. If he doesn't respond within a few days, you might try posting a question on a couple of the other forums....

civilwarblacksmith.... Lacers sometimes show up at farm auctions... It's been a while since I seen one in an auction though. They were going for around 40 bucks. The lacing can be bought at Tractor Supply Co (TSC).

Larrynjr.... If you can still buy scrap for 15 cents a pound, you are doing a lot better than most of us. On the East coast, it's gone up to about 50 cents a pound where I go. You might want to stockpile a bit.

Larrynjr... You mentioned a few posts ago ......... I know it was hard to get a consistant flame in it and after an hour or so, when the tank got colder the volume would decrease significantly. The new one I ran for at least a hour with no sign of decreased volume. When your tank gets low, and you are using a fair amount of gas, it is normal for the tank to frost up and give you decreased propane flow (lower pressure in the tank). When you have a full tank, this doesn't happen, so your experience with a near-empty tank, then a full tank, is normal. Make your judgements on your equipment with a full tank only. I have lessened the effect from a frosty tank in the past by putting the propane tank in my slack tub (now I have ganged two small tanks together to avoid the problem). If you do put the tank in your slack tub (or some other tub), be sure it stays upright. You DO NOT WANT the tank to tip and deliver liquid propane to your forge. It would not be pretty.

Very Elegant....