Dave Hammer

I like the idea of a long stump buried in the ground. My primary shop is not amiable for that because I occasionally need to move my anvil. I still use a stump that I have cut into a flat topped tapered sides block. The top and bottom can easily be "shaved" flat with a chain saw that is held perpendicular to the surface and "fanned" across the surface, lightly touching the surface. I also use a circular saw to cut grooves near the top and bottom, then make up clamps I put on so when the stump dries out, it doesn't split. I also made little attachments that hold some of my hardy tools and a swage block. The anvil is held in place by two blocks that are screwed to the top and are shaped to fit against the side of the anvil. The "Z" on the front is a helper that swings up (and is held in place by tightening the big thumbscrews... so I can lay stock across the helper to the anvil.

It's not clear what type of saw you want to make. What type of machine are the blades you have used in? Abrasive, band saw, cold saw .... ? Unless you are just interested in a challenge for a project, and already have all or most of the parts, I would expect it would be cheaper to buy a metal cutting saw than build one. For occassional use, even the cheap saws that Harbor Freight sells work fairly well.

I'm assuming this is a serious inquiry.... This is what I know as a monkey tool. If you are doing traditional joinery and forge a round tenon, a monkey tool is used to 'set' the shoulder (make it square) on a tenon and/or upset the shoulder for effect. The hole in the side of the monkey tool could be for escaping scale, or a visual for you to be sure the tenon is not bottoming out in the tool. The monkey tool is placed over your forged tenon, then struck with a hammer,

Glenn... got my glue.... thanks...

Philip in China Let's see some proof... Post a picture...

All time is free. I've never noticed some I could pay for to get. What we do with it is determined by choice.

I've seen Hofi demonstrate at Dean Curfman's in North Carolina. He's worth a long drive to learn from.

Is this sander belt driven? If it is, and it happens with the replacement, take the belt off and see if the motor starts and runs properly in the cold. If it does, turn the pully on the tool by hand to see if there is resistance. If there is, it could be (as previously noted) the lube in the bearings (or sleeves). I don't think I've ever seen a new motor bind up because of cold. A cover, like a towel, with a shielded light bulb under it will keep a tool like that warm.

Allowed?????????? I'm not sure I know any blacksmiths that use that word in conjunction with their blacksmith activities.

When someone is considering buying or making a power hammer, its important to consider what you are going to expect from it. If you know what you want it to do for you, as well as what your fabrication skills and interests are, there are many on this site that can give you advice. The best case would be for you to visit shops that have any hammer you are considering and get a little demo and permission to play a bit.

To cut large band saw blades, use a zip disc in a 4.5 inch grinder. Just score with the disc (close to 1/2 way through), then snap in two. Works like a champ for me! I use a belt grinder to take off the teeth. If you don't have one, you can also cut lengthwise with the zip disc.

$100 would probably be the best price. For an informed opinion though, more information is needed. What model is it (upright, helve (guided or ?)). Where is it? A picture is worth a thousand words... Also, consider that buying it is only the first financial impact. Transporting, making the base (and moving onto it) and proper electricity hookup are additional significant costs.

Dodge... Based on your description, you have a solid anvil. I believe stacked is fine, as long as the stock is flat and you have clamped before you weld.

My name is Hammer. I like to play with fire... HammerFire Forge seems to fit.

Gentlemen? Really.........

I recommend a solid anvil, and the heavier... the better. Also, if you are going to build a mechanical, take a close look at the tire hammer. You can order plans for it, and it's probably the most efficient of the small homebuilt mechanicals...

Go forth and play...............

Glenn.... Put me down for another 2.75# forged HOFI hammer and a tube of the glue for hammer handles... My zip code is 22124. Please let me know what the total cost is... Dave Hammer

The deeper you make the grooves, the more the cubes will pop out.

Order half thickness bricks from Larry Zoeller... Just Google with his name to get the site url.

There are blueprints that show how both twists are made. Unfortunately, the blueprints are among those that can't be accessed right now.... Patience is king!

OOPs.... I read the request for pictures of pineapple twists, started looking for them and evidently had a senior moment when I found the cube twist pictures. Here's one example in the right category....

I've made a few... These are examples of the types of projects I like to use them on.

There is an odor associated with propane gas forges, even well tuned ones, but that distinct propane odor should not be there. I second checking for leaks first. The only time I have ever distinctly smelled propane is when there was a leak. Extremely dangerous.

Nice idea.