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I Forge Iron

snake

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  • Location
    colorado
  • Occupation
    freelance bum
  1. "Did you notice that the steel in the cheapo HF file is extremely comparable to the old American files -- arguably even a little superior? Steel snobs, take note: just 'cuz it's cheap and made overseas doesn't necessarily mean it's xxxx." have you actually tried forging one? there may be a layer of nice high carbon steel on the outside but the inside is some kind of xxxx pot metal...at least mine were...they crumbled with the first strike of a hammer.
  2. i'm making a side-draft forge and, pardon my lack of appropriate terminology, the box or flue or chamber or whatever you wanna' call it will be going through the wall of my garage. i'm looking for some suggestions on what kind of barrier to put between the sheet metal and the wall itself...not on the flat drywall interior, but lining the hole that goes to the outside...i've thought about cutting up a sheet of "wonderboard", the concrete sheets used for laying tile down on but wondering if anyone has any better suggestions. i'm assuming that direct contact with the interior of the wall is NOT a particularly good idea, given the potential for a fire...
  3. i have one from saltfork. haven't used it much, but it's definitely worth the money, in terms of quality. like others have said, you will need to clean it up. it comes a little rough on the surfaces.
  4. i mean, besides their intended use? there's a farm & feed store in the area that sells farriers' supplies and being a tool junkie, i keep ogling the farrier files, wanting to buy one, but not sure what it'd be good for, since i'm not a farrier. help me to justify one. what else are they good for?
  5. i have the cheap chinese files to abuse and toss around (like filing off rough, sloppy torch cuts) and the good nicholsons for more important, quality work. i don't like to beat up my expensive files on rough work, so those cheap sets you can sometimes find at costco come in real handy. i also find them useful for woodworking. but, don't have any delusions about putting the chinese files into the forge after they're dull and fashioning a knife or other tool. those things aren't even case-hardened mild steel. they're some kind of pot metal junk with a thin wrapping of steel on the outside. get them red-hot, hit 'em with a hammer and the inside crumbles into dust. so basically once they no longer cut, they're useless. can't even recycle 'em into something else.
  6. does a rail anvil even need to be hardened? i would think it'd get pretty well work-hardened after having millions of tons of steel rolling it over the years.
  7. hello fellers - daily lurker, very rare poster here with a question... i have an outdoor coal forge with an 8" chimney and draft hood that draws quite well. but i'm building an indoor shop (inside a garage) and am bouncing around ideas for how to install the pipe. i'd rather not cut a hole in the roof for the chimney - was wondering if a chimney would still draw well if it started at say,a 45 or 60 degree angle out the side of the garage, and then went vertical. i've seen woodstoves up here with chimney pipe going horizontal out a basement wall. i don't understand how that works, (maybe they have fans?) but is it possible to make a chimney that will draft starting from a horizontal position and a 90 degree turn into a vertical pipe? anyone have any experience with this, or perhaps a design they could point me toward? thanks!
  8. hi - long time lurker, first time poster here... i have an outdoor coal forge and want to construct a side draft hood to keep the smoke from getting into my face all the time. i'm looking at the plans on anvilfire, all of which seem to be for indoor forges utilizing a chimney that extends out beyond the roof. link removed at the request of anvilfire link removed at the request of anvilfire i was wondering if anyone has any info and how high of a chimney i would need to get a draft. i just need to get the smoke out of my face (and more importantly, my lungs), and have it vent somewhere above me. any idea what the minimum height would need to be for a 10-12" pipe? obviously, it can't be too tall as it will be unsupported...i'll just have it welded or screwed to my forge which is made of steel plate. it's pretty heavy but i'm not sure it'll support a hood of much more 5-6 feet tall, including the chimney. basically, i'm planning on welding together the hood/box from 1/16" steel plate and attaching 10 or 12" chimney pipe to it. any and all info/suggestions appreciated. thanks!
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