Dave Hammer

I would guess the old regulator had a smaller hole on the output side, resulting in less volume of propane to the forge. It's not just pressure, volume is significant also. I use a 0-60 lb regulator, cranked all the way up and control volume with an Alcon needle valve. I have not had problems getting enough heat for forge welding since I moved to this setup....

Looks great!

couch potato

What on earth do you do, as a blacksmith, with a 20# hammer?

Thanks for the additional photos...

Green Valley is 1/2 inch, not 1/5 inch.

JohnW..... Thanks for finding that chart. Very handy indeed!

The coal sources I have identified sell small piece Bituminous (Green Valley is 1/5 inch, Monger's was about an inch), which (according to the chart) weighs 52 lbs per cubic foot. Anthricite is much heavier at 69 lbs per cubic foot. The last time I went to get coal, I took a 4x6 trailer with 14" sides on it. Loaded level it was about 1500 lbs, so the 52# per cubic foot is very close. If you take a trailer, be sure it can handle the load at speeds you will drive.

I have used coal from both these sources. Green Valley coal is excellent. The last coal I bought from Monger was fair. Green Valley Coal Co. Leivasy, WV (304) 846-6600 Sewell Stream $140/ton, loaded into your truck/trailer Monger Coal & Oil Co. Elkton, VA (Pocahantas?) $5.30 for 40# bagged (call ahead to be sure they have some bagged) $180/ton, loaded into your truck/trailer (540) 298-1256

I second the recommendation for Randy McDaniel's "Blacksmith Primer". A great book for a beginner.

Thanks HWooldridge... From the looks of it, your anvil base is at the same level at the base of the rest of the frame. Is that correct?

IRNSGN and Finnr... I didn't know that kiln dried lumber can be brittle when compared to air dried, so that's good information for me. Thanks... I wasn't trying to say a kiln necessarily should be used to dry the wood. Air drying is fine. What I was saying is that if green wood is dried too fast, it will warp and split (at least that is what I have experienced with Oak). INSGN's original post said "It gets nice and hot in there", which I assumed was referencing where the green wood is going to be cured. No offense taken and none meant.

Got a complaint?... Take a number. The next number was on the key in a granade

IRNSRGN.... Be aware that if green wood dries too fast, it will split and warp. That's why kilns are controlled environments.

I agree... Half dig, half fill, then a couple inches of rock dust from a quarry.

Hwooldridge... Would you post a picture of your 100# Beaudry, and provide details about how you have anchored the anvil and frame? Thanks....

I think that red paint may be the problem. The jaws are scrunching sideways so as not to have to see it.

Take out the screw and see if you can move the jaws side to side. If so, do whatever is necessary to tighten that up a bit. Sometimes it's just tightening a bolt, sometimes it's tightening a rivet, or working to force the stationary sides together. The jaws should line up fairly well. If not, do as Hollis advised.

Try closing the valve at the forge, openng the regulator just a little, opening the tank valve, wait a few seconds, then crack the forge valve just a little to light it.

Nice work!

I'll bet there is a story behind the question.... Patrick, are the tours of Scott Forge you give as a staff metallurgist as interesting as the one we went on to CSS when you were a college student? Care to share?

Pam is Canola oil. Should work well. Easy to recoat also... How about some pictures?

It's likely that you forged that steel at too high a temperature. I've had similar results trying to learn to forge A2 steel. Some tool steel has a narrow forging range. If you can guess or find out what type of steel it is, Goggle for heat treating it and you will find the forging temperature range.

I agree with Thomas. That piece is definitely wrought. You will have to check each piece to know. Although my experience supports most tires are wrought, some are not. Wrought quality varies a lot too, most tires are poor wrought (not very refined). Many folks say you can refine it by working at welding heat, but I haven't had much good luck when I try that (possibly because I don't work it hot enough?). I have made hundreds of leaves from tire wrought iron that, when etched (and not), are very attractive. In fact, if you are going to etch for effect, less refined wrought is more desirable (assuming it is refined enough to be forged into the object you want in the first place).

I'm hoping this picture of the steam hammer is a little easier to see. Didn't realize someone had already posted a lightened picture...