Dave Hammer

Thanks for the advice and information thus far provided. I have done further research online and found that setting pre-heat oxygen pressure is not associated with the equipment I have. My equipment has only two hoses (one for oxygen, one for acetelyene), with a single regulator for each hose. Evidently, some setups have a second oxygen regulator and a second oxygen hose. I found a Victor "Welding, Cutting and Heating Guide" that states "Pre-heat Oxygen PSIG" is applicable for 3-hose machine cutting torches only. With a 2-hose cutting torch, preheat pressure is set by the cutting oxygen" I was confused by tip and pressure charts that have columns for pre-heat pressures, but did not qualify their use and requirements. Update.... A little more qualification... When it states that the pre-heat pressure is set by the cutting oxygen, it means that the user sets a single oxygen pressure, that being the oxygen-cutting pressure. The follow-on process to create a proper pre-heat "cone" evidently limits the oxygen flow for the pre-heat oxy/acet mix.... and thus provides for a proper oxygen volume (SCFH), as opposed to contolling the amount of oxygen used by the pre-heat by pressure. Anyway..... If I understand it correctly, that's how it must work.

Could someone explain Pre-Heat Oxygen pressure to me, and how it is accomplished if I set my regulators to cutting pressures?

Ries Niemi, an artist blacksmith that lives on the West coast, just posted on another form that he uses a Hossfeld bender to un-bend that which you describe.

Look into buying tanks from Tractor Supply Co if there is one near you. They sell the tanks and exchange for refills. Do comparison pricing with local welding shops.... They market several sizes.

The Blueprint tab implies that there are LOTS of blueprints. I only seem to be able to get to the first two groups, then HOFI's. Outside those, I get a "not authorized" dialog window. Are there really more blueprints, or are those links set up for future use. If there are more blueprints, how is access granted for them? Also, is there a "log in" on the home page somewhere? When I want to log in, I seem to have to search around for a place to do it.

This chunk of steel, 48" x 48" x 3 1/4" jumped onto my trailer while I was at a steel recycling yard a few weeks ago. After I make a base for it, I suspect it will serve me well as a stationary table.

I think it may be more difficult to find a good anvil than a good blower, so having to make a choice, I would buy the anvil.

nett.... Thanks for the information. It definitely is a dry tuyere. I like that link... Thanks..

HWooldridge... Centaur Forge sells a Vaughan portable forge, but they don't post a picture on their website. I have sent an email asking for one.... Thanks for the lead.

Glenn.... I moved a copy of the photo into your Gallery and changed the link... Thomas.... How did you do your search? There are no manufacturers markings on this forge, blower or base. I did a search on Google (both images and patent searches) and didn't see anything like it (yet, still looking). I have looked at a lot of forges online, but none like this one.

This past weekend, I bought this small side-blast forge. Have any of you seen one like it before? I have a pre-conceived notion about it's origin, but would like information from anyone that really knows about it. It has a few missing parts I would like to replicate, so if anyone knows what a complete one looks like, it would help me tremendously. This unit is missing the crank, gear cover(s) and something that was apparently mounted on top of the blower (table, coal/water box, vise... ?????) Also, can anyone offer an opinion (or fact) as to whether the base is/may be original. I have seen a number of small forges, but never one with this type of base. The way it is mounted (underside) looks reasonably like it may be original (no jeri-rigging), but there is room for question. Thanks in advance..... http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/5664

I have several forges I have made to accomodate my forging needs. The forging stand has three forges. The top forge is a clam shell, made from a 14" pipe that has been squashed to oval (2" of kaowool with a refractory base). The lower forge is an 8" pipe, with 30" of heated space (one inch of kaowool with a refractory shelf). The smaller forge on the right side is an 8" OD pipe, with 2" of kaowool (it's the oldest and most used of my forges). I use amospheric burners with simple manifolds (when there is more than one burner), with alcon needle valves and gas shutoff valves on each burner. When there is a manifold, I also use a larger needle valve to reduce the gas flow to all burners at once. The individual forge is a small (6" outside dia pipe, 7" long) forge with 1" of kaowool and a soft brick bottom. I can use this forge on a table, or a stand (1" pipe coupler welded on the bottom). I use a high pressure regulator and quick connects with the hose (if you use these, be sure they are safe for propane).

Glenn.... Your "upper right" information doesn't give much clue where you are from.

Tailgating at hammer-ins and guild meetings, flea markets, online forums, farm and equipment auctions (actually, any auction that advertises old tools), antique stores (yes, sometimes a deal can be found there), steam thresher reunions, gas and steam engine reunions, any other old equipment gathering, metal recycling businesses (junk yards), thrifty-nickel type ad papers, advertising for tools, old hardware stores, relative's farms, non-relatives farms, friends, family.... more I'm sure

If you are handy, you can easily make one, especially if you can weld. Even if you can't weld. If you want to buy one, and are a beginner, you might check for single or double burner forges on eBay if you want to keep your costs down. If you want to buy a commercially made forge, NC Forges are good, and they have a wide range of them.

The price you have to pay for a post vise will vary a lot, depending upon the source and location. I have paid from $2 for a very nice 4" (auction) to $150 and $175 for 6" plus vices. I have bought several other good vices from $10 to $50 (4-5 inch) also. If you are looking for one, just be patient, go to auctions, big flea markets (old machinery get-togethers and tailgate sales. I'd expect $35 to $50 would get a fine vise these days.

Mike T... Tag... You're it. I'm sure you can find a place for that anvil in your shop. 8-)

Randy McDaniel has forge titanium. His website is "http://www.drgnfly4g.com"

If you can cut steel and do a little welding, you can easily build a small propane forge. This one has a 6" cylinder for a body, some channel iron to hold a firebrick on the each end, one inch of Kaowool, half soft brick for floor over that wool and an 1/2" aspirated burner with a needle valve for fine adjustment. It works GREAT for small projects. And it fits on a shelf when you aren't using it. If you use quick connects for your propane, be sure they are suitable (nurile).

Anyway............

I have made a 1 inch square hole in 1 inch plate by drilling a series of 1/4" holes around the perimeter, then using a slim chisel to take out the center. Following that, use a file and a lot of elbow grease to square it up. I could have probably punched mine, but I didn't want to change the shape of the original piece (that metal has to go somewhere). If you can get your plate on a drill press, it's a snap (watch bit speed). If not, it's a much longer chore with a hand drill. I doubt you can heat it enough to punch the hole without using a forge, regardless of your preparation. Good luck with your challenge.

How much is a TIG welder? Do a search on eBay for TIG welder... "Buy it Now" prices are pretty good for the new ones.

Early career... Commercial sign painter. Then 6+ years in the Air Force in the late 60's - early 70's. In the service, I was trained as a weather forecaster, but ended up programming computers. 32 years working for computer companies. Operating system support, project leader, project manager, teacher, IT architect. Retired in 2004. I've already earned my living. Now I'm living it. Giving one half of it to grandchildren. The other half to learning to become a blacksmith.

If you have a Tractor Supply Co (TSC) store within reasonable driving range, check out their prices for buying and exchanging tanks (refills) at their stores. They are the best deal in the Northern Virginia area. They sell several sizes of tanks for Oxy/act as well as Mig welding.

Bill Clemens, a blacksmith up Pennsylvania way, gave me the following information. I can attest that his dinner bells are outstanding. **** The exact length for the first bend( the bend the dinner bell should be hung from) is .224 of the overall length being used to make the bell. The distance came from info on making wind chimes. If you ever see wind chimes, the best ones have each length of pipe hung from a different point (.224 of its length) The ones I made I used 30" of 1/2" round so .224 x 30 = 6.72 (I use 6 3/4") Then make next bend a 16 3/4" and last at 26 3/4" Finally I make sure to "harden" the mild steel as a last step when I'm done forging. **** Hope that works for you....