raypa
Members-
Posts
22 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Converted
-
Location
Jeannette, PA
-
Biography
Researching a warm winter hobby.
-
Interests
welding, fabricating
-
Occupation
engineering geologist
-
Here is a pic. the center is about 12" dia and cast steel. Should i put clay on the outside?
-
Here is the picture. Where the fire is now, that is all cast. the outer pan is not. so I should put clay on the outer pan. right.
-
My center is approximately 12" dia and about 2" deep and is cast steel. That is where I have been making the fire. I have not made a fire that has been larger than that yet. I foresee when I try something larger I will need some clay. I need to get a picture up here.
-
do i make it concave and cover to the top of the ring or do i put down a thin 1 inch coat on the bottom? I've never seen a forge with a lining. I just see them in use with coals in them. (I'm a newbie, can you tell>)
-
I just picked up an old hand crank forge. It is round about the diameter of a 55gal drum made by a forge company in lancaster, pa. The old guy I purchased it from said I need to put a clay lining in it. I looked around for pictures of what I need to do and can;'t find anything. the lip on the side is about 6" tall and the blower blows from the bottom middle. Anybody know of any pictures floating around?
-
Well, there is something to be said about the size of your orfice. I had a 1/32 drilled in my endcap. I overdrilled that with a 1/16 and bada-bing a functional burner. I could not go over about 4 psi with out a flame out. Not an efficient burner, but a functional. Once it worked, I did add a make shift burner flare end using a 3/4 copper fitting to see if that helped and it did. So I chopped the 3/4 nipple down to about 6" then added a 2.5 in steel flaired end to it. Well, i lost performance. I was able to jump the pressure to 10psi but the flame was very erratic and had an ugly pattern. I'm going to try another 12" 3/4 with the end flare i made to see what happens tonight. Ian, thanks again for Reils site that is helping the learning curve. Nate, i will try to refine my flaired end with your recommendations. Heck, maybe I will have this thing working before i find an anvil. Ray
-
well, I'm going to give it one more shot and then buy a burner. I think my problem is just lack of knowledge about forges in general. Ive never seen one other than pictures on a website. Once I get the hang of how and why they work I will venture back into building the burner. No need to catch my garage on fire. I will be moving the jet back toward the rear as suggested to see what happens.
-
OK. I built one with a new bell that goes from 2" t0 .75". I fixed the leak. Now i just cant get it to burn out the end of the tube. it wants to burn in the tube right off the nozzle.. (yes i know that is dangerous and i shut it down). Question. Is my 1/32" nozzle hole a good size? I'm thinking it may be too small to get good flow. I get it to burn at very low pressure, but at high pressure it is a flame out at the end of the burn tube. Ian, I will check out Rons site and see if it sheds some light.
-
Well i am back home. I am going to try a 2"x3/4" bell with a 3/4 burner tube. I will post later with the results. How important is the fullered on the burner tube that is the blue prints? ray
-
The regulator is adjustable from 0-10psi. I found the plans on this site with the changes listed in my other post. What do you think Thanks ray
-
I used the plans from the 200 section of this site to build it. The only difference is that I used reducers from the belled end because I couldn't find the 2" to 1" bell. I wonder it I could use RTV to smooth out the transition. I am getting a blue flame that seams to float out past the end of the burner tube when the pressure is up but doesn't leave the forge. I drilled a 1/32" hole in the brass cap for the nozzle. The other modification is that I did not hozzle the 1" pipe like in the directions because I didn't know how. I checked my connections and did not see any apparent leaks. Is there any other buner designs I can try if this one is going to give me issues? As far as lowering the pressure, I was under the impression that I would need to run at least 10psi to opperate the forge. Thanks for the help. ray
-
here are some additional pics The setup is 1/4" necked down to 1/8th" with a 1/32" hole drilled in the brass cap. Why am i smelling propane? Thanks in advance ray
-
OK. so I made a replica gas forge from the plans on the site here. It is completed except for the kaowool (which im waiting for payday to buy). ANYWAYs. i firgured I would fire it up. It burns ok, but there is a very un burned propane smell. I'm running at 10 psi with a reg from a turkey fryer. I'm thinking I should close up the belled end a tad to allow it to burn more efficiently. ?? ray
-
That is what I needed to know. I was thinking the cement would be cheaper but looks like it may be more costly in the long run. Thanks for the help guys.
-
I'm still reading around on how to build a forge. I see that some are using refractory cement instead of Kaowool. What is your opinion on this. I am planing on using a steel pipe that is 3/16wall with a 11.25 ID. I have not determined what length Im going to use yet. Also with the kaowool, I've seen it being sold in 1" thick sheets. Is this enough or should i plan on doubling it. BTW, I plan to run this on propane. I'm not sure what I'm going to be forging yet. I just think trying to build my own forge would be fun and challenging. I'm a pretty good self taught mig welder and fabricator. Thanks again for the help ray