olcarguy

Just lost in aw in your mastery of the metal. Now just don't sprain your shoulder patten yourself on the back. You might even have to change hat sizes......

Quick Summary: Some approximate starting advice is to set the spindle speed between 700-1000 rpms for steel, above 2000 for aluminum, and slow down from there if you get discolored chips or heavy drill bit wear. In most cases the drill press will not be able to supply enough power or speed to follow the below recommendations. A 3/8" drill bit drilling mild steel at the recommended speed and feed could require around 1 hp. Going slower usually doesn't hurt, and will prolong tool life. Drill press spindle speeds depend on lots of things: the type of material being drilled and its hardness, the hole size, the type / hardness of the drill bit and its sharpness, whether or not a cutting / cooling fluid is used, and the rigidity of the drill and clamp, among others. Also, most speed recommendations are geared towards manufacturing environments where machining time is very expensive. As drilling speed increases productivity goes up, but tooling also wears out faster. The recommendations seek a balance between these two concerns, but this balance is not determined with the pocketbook of someone running a hobbyist or prototype shop in mind. So, for the hobbyists shop, where longer tool life is probably more important than machining time, and where pushing the speed limit may ruin a valuable prototype, reasonable advice might be to start off at about 75% of the recommended drilling speeds. You'll typically see large ranges of recommended speeds for various materials, and some discrepancy between different sources. This is partly due to the large influence the material hardness has on how fast it can be drilled (harder --> slower). Even if the material and its hardness were precisely known, the large number of other factors would require some experimentation. If the chips are smoking, turning brown, or the outer edge of the drill bit is chipping, go slower or add some cutting oil / coolant. (a decent guide to cutting fluid) In general, a slower-than-recommended spindle speed won't hurt anything except in the case of extremely small drill bits, say smaller than 1/16". With small bits, it's hard to feel resistance from the metal, and therefore, very easy to push down faster than they can remove metal. Using recommended RPMs (spindle rotation speed) mitigates this risk. A tip for drilling extremely small holes is to drill down to the depth stop, and then move it down a 16th of an inch, and repeat. This ensures that too much metal isn't chewed off too quickly.

That was my guess Mick.....

Pipe is available in many wall thicknesses, fron thin wall to 1" and thicker. It all depends on the presure the pipe was designed to hold. Go to your local scrappy and start looking....

Here you go, Archie it's a bit ruff but I think you can get the basic idea. the lifesaver looking thing in the corner is a top view. Any thing else just ask...

What style of chimney are you using. There is an easy modification to a straight stack that can draw in more air and delute the smoke. If you are interested I can make up a drawing.

If you put some course sand or pea gravel in the bottom of the tub it will cushion the bottom and prevent puntures.

You can allways soak them incider......So i'm told

Quote Dragon's Lair: "My 88lb Hay- Budden came with a great face. No horn Now it has a horn. My 142 Hay-Budden had rolled edges and a few deep chips pits now flat faced, even radiused edges.I may be wrong but I am D--m happy with my tools" Would it be posible for you to give us a low down on your repair practice...Please

Like a charm, only had to clean the paint out of the oil cups on the motor, give it a couple drops and the squeeel went away.

Had a neighbor come buy my shop on the weekend and wanted to know if I wanted this blower. It was in the basement of an old house he had bought. He had no use for it and he was going to put it out for trash if I couldn't use it.:confused: Tried to google the co. but no luck in finding any information. Does anyone know of this co. as in when they stopped production and stuff?

If you need coal, your local Home Hardware will order it for you, delivery to their store. I think it comes from THAK.

This is a little off topic but...... I smartened myself up a couple of weeks ago. I was ripping some stock on my table saw. Still not sure how I did it but I turned the end of my left thumb into minced meat. I had allready cut about 20 pieces with no problem, when twingg.....you know that odd sound you hear when something you've done isn't right. Well, it hurt right away, I grabed my thumb and held it between my knees for a minute. Then I checked to see what I had done, in case I had to find some parts to get sown back on. No major parts missing, but a good mess. So I drove myself to the Hosp, waited 6 hrs to have a Dr. tell me I had nothing to stitch back together. Most of the flesh had been removed. Anyway the bandaged it up and away I went. Here it is 3 wks later and it still is not healed fully, I have a 1/4" in gash 3/4" long on the end of my thumb that is still bright red and verwy verwy tender. Moral of the story is to always pay attention to what you are doing, it only takes a fraction of a second for an accident to happen. Use the safty guards!!

Well done...:):)

Good idea...and you could put your kettle close to the forge fire and heat it at the same time.....:D:D:D

I like to take a coffe can with a lid, punch a small hole in the centre of the lid. Thread the wire though the hole and the coil sits in the can and unwinds when i pull on the wire. You can use the e tape and duck tape to hold the lid down......

Metal garbage can as a forge? I would be very carful of heating the galvanizing on the can..

The texture of the stem and scrole would make a nice lizard or dragon. Nice work though.

Put me down for at least one perhaps more. I'll start tomorow.

I use an air tight wood stove in my shop. When I go in for the night, I turn the dampers off so almost no air gets in. Come morning, I use a french fry basket and a shovel, sift over the ash bucket and save the charcoal thats in the basket...1/4 in holes..

Thank you for posting the recipe for the quench. It looks simple and safe to use.

Hey irnsrgn...Nice shelving. I realy like how you store the angle up against the receptical.

You going to give the sides a coat of paint?

I never imagined there was that much work involved in producing a simple file, a tool that is so often taken for granted. Great read thanks for the post.

I built my own helve out of shop scrap. Adjust the weight of the spring and the weight of hammer for different jobs. They are very versatile. Mine is quite small for forging purposes but they can be built to any size. Different shaped dies can be made to shape almost any shape. these dies are made out of uhmw and are used for 20ga sheet steel. Steel dies can also be made. I also made the lower die holder height adjustable, to allow for different dies. It is powered by a 1/2 air drill and so far with intermittent use has given no trouble in 6 months of use. If you want more info or pictures let me know.