brianbrazealblacksmith

I thought you might have been being sarcastic, Charlotte. Sorrry for the misinterpretation. ChrisB, here is a picture of some scrolling jigs that make a C-scroll that will touch along with a few examples of scrolls I've made with them. I made a new one yesterday for the work in progress and a start of another one that hasn't been mounted yet. Notice the scroll examples; the smaller one is made with the 24" jig and the larger ones on either side are made with the 36" jig. One 36" scroll will fill the same space as two 24" scrolls with less material and still afford you the less than 4" spacing you need for some gates and railings. That's another shop tip.

What is that supposed to mean? I usually start people who want to learn this trade with scrolls and collaring, just like 10 year old David did his first day with me. That trivet can be done by anyone with no experience within an hours time. Scrolls and collars are the most efficient way that Man has ever come up with to join 2 or more pieces of metal together and create a structure.

I make most of my scrolling jigs where they will form a C-scroll that will touch without interfering with the jig when you form the second half. They are also made for standard size cuts [12",18",24",36",48"...] so I don't have alot of scrap from cutting up 20' bars. You can always make S-scrolls with any jig, but the C-scroll that touches gives you alot more design options and structure.

Dick, Those pictures are taken before I start a fire. I am using coke, and I do keep some on the sides so I can add it with my spatula, but I also add fuel from time to time from a bucket that I keep near me. When I'm working with coal, I will bank my fuel constantly to maintain my fire.

Dick, my tong rack is on the side with my punches. Here are some other features you may have missed: a pivoting bar stock support that also moves up and down and a "tailgate shear" which can be purchased from the Shoein Shop in Yucaipa, Calif.

Here are a few bottle openers on some tools. It makes a nice end to hang your tools from.

I like it! A lot more than I have to work with.

Bill. here is my forge that I use every day and take with me to events. I have a Roger Lorance fire pot and the frame is angle iron. I have simple racks for my tongs and top tools and hooks for other tools. I also have a swing out for holding longer stock.

Hey David, Brian is working on something really cool, ask your mom if you can hang with Brian when she goes to work. Or have her call me...

Paul, those are nothing to be embarassed about. I especially like the little hammers! I've had the opportunity to make lots of key chains and bottle openers. When I was in Austria, they had me make hundreds of them for the museum's gift store. I could make 100 horse head key chains,finished, in an 8 hour day.

Here are some different key chains/bottle openers.

I just got back from a show, so I thought I would show how my forge is put together. The tubing and sheet metal are not welded; they are just sitting on the angle iron frame. The forge does not warp or buckle this way. Every- thing comes out and I can easily move it by myself. This is the forge I work with everyday.

John B has the answer. Ed and I did this at Alfred Habermann Jr.s' on square stock on the diamond. We started by making a nick with a file on one side at the spacing where each hole was to go. The nick helped to start your slitter at the angle. Joseph Habermann, Alfred Sr.'s grandson, was here last year and held a workshop on this very thing. I would strongly suggest that anyone interested in this technique or others get in contact with him or his father, Alfred Jr., or his brother, David, or all three, and get your association to sponsor a workshop and/or demo with them. I know Joseph speaks very good English now. tel.: +420 736 666 012 e-mail: jos.habermann@seznam.cz

The plug is darker than the rest because of the contact with the anvil and punch but quickly becomes the same color as the rest because of the heat being transferred back into the thinner material. I go by the shiny impression from the anvil contact and take my time to make sure I am lined up correctly with a lite mark before I deliver a sharp blow to punch the plug out. On the bottle opener, I slit and drift both holes. [one is 5/8", the other is 3/4"] No special bottom tools are used, just an appropriate hole on the bottom. The bottle opener is hammered to size on the horn.

Good job! and a great way to get started in blacksmithing!

I've done both silver and copper but usually not in front of the customer because they are quicker to make and I can charge alot more because of the shiny metal. People are like crows. I found my drawing of this technique, so I'll post it to give you all some more ideas to think about.

We have a tractor show to do this weekend, and there were some guys wondering what to make to sale. This is one of the first joints I figured out when I was on my own. I had never seen it before. It is really simple and quick. You can just drill the holes and counter sink them, but I always punch them. This is just about the only time that I use a flat bottom punch because I want a counter sunk hole. The counter sink is what makes this joint work, and if you do not put the counter sink towards the outside, it will not work. This cross can be forged within 15 minutes, and you can decorate it all kinds of ways. I also use this joint for frame work. Notice that the piece that will form the rivet inside the counter sinks is barely longer than the two pieces stacked together. All you do is hammer the 2 pieces down to the same plane.

I just got off the phone with Roger Lorance. What a nice guy! He runs around with Clifton Ralf [sp?]. He remembered my brother and I from back when I was running around with Tom Clark. Anyway, Roger is going to be sending me a flyer of his products, and when I get it, I will pass it on. He has fire pots, mandrel cones, and swage blocks at very reasonable prices, and if a group can get together to make a large order, the price gets even better because of shipping costs. Roger Lorance: 309-475-9012

Petroleum coke comes in many different grades. The best that I have had was what they call "sponge coke". It looks lie a sponge. When I was in the Ukraine, that is what they were using also. It sounds like you had alot of fines in what you were trying to use. I would always screen the coke I was getting.

Frosty, my last fire pot cost me $250 delivered to my door in S. Calif. That was several years ago. I just tried to call the number Karen got off the Internet and it was no longer in service. I'll try and get his current info.

I am going to have to reiterate. The Lorance fire pot is the best out there! I've used them all, every thing from GE and Centaur to the older Buffalo's and some I don't know the names of and some homemade ones. I use my forge almost every day, and I've gone through several fire pots in my career. When it is time to replace this one, I guarantee you I'll get a Lorance fire pot. Most of you would never have to replace your fire pots in your lifetime, but I use petroleum coke quite a bit. PetCoke will eat up your fire pot because it is so clean and will never make any clinkers.

Lorance Forge and Castings (Roger Lorance) 16412 E. Illinois 9 Highway, Canton, IL 61520. TEL: (309) 647-9242

Roger Lorrance currently makes the best fire pot availiable in this country for the best price. He is from Illinois. I could not find his information at this moment, but I'll keep looking. I know there are others out there that have his contact info. He has been mentioned on this site before.

Call Roger Lorrance.

DM, Think of your hammer and anvil as top and bottom dies, just like a power hammer has top and bottom dies. There are three main bottom dies: Flat, Fullers, and Butcher. Your hammer and top tools are your top dies. With hand work, You have unlimited combinations availiable to you. Forging is a simple matter of choosing the appropriate dies and holding your material under them to get the desired effect. The most common dies to choose to distribute material are drawing dies and half hammer faced blows, and since they are some of your smallest dies to choose from, they will be the easiest to teach you hammer control.[You either hit them or you don't, and your material will let you know] Learn to hit those spots and hold your material under them. I don't have any picture to show you, but I do have a simple drawing.