Gergely

Yeah, baby! Sounds cool! I can't wait for more pictures and video, yummy! Seriously I'm very happy to hear this! Bests and happy hammering: Gergely

5x10 mm flat is the steel I use for lucky horseshoes. They sell real well around here. Bests: Gergely

Hi, 52100 type bearing steel is not easy to forge weld at all. Also I definitely wouldn't use wood under the billet, it makes your hits real weak, as it has no rebound. Thinks me. Good idea on the MS on MS learning. Also try to use some plain high carbon steel to test yourself at HC + MS welding. Also apply borax when the billet is at orange heat. It clears the already formed scale off. Stops the scale from re-forming, but the flux burns off if you apply it too early. That's all I can tell you now. Hope it's helpful. Bests: Gergely

Hi JV, Very attractive knots you've done there! I really like them. BTW. I use black locust "mallet" all the time. It tears on hot steel a bit slower than most other woods around here. Bests to you! Gergely

Hey Das, Happy to hear it, and congrats! I have a little girl, too, and I can tell you nothing in this world has caused me so much joy as she does almost every day Otherwise JHCC is total right, except mine is 3 yoand I've already forgot how to be right Bests to you and the familiy! Gergely

Some battle axes out of scrap 3/4" square 1045. Was fun to make! This one has its spike end shaped and sharpened like a knife. Haft is ash. This one has black locust haft. Also you can see where my technique needs more work Bests: Gergely

There have been some threads on this sensitive subject, let's hope this time no one takes stating business issues as a personal offense. All I can do in this is to share my part. I know it will not be very helpful as Hungary is so far far away from anything. But anyway... I try to get around 12-14$ /hour rate. It does not always occur. I produce one of a kind items mostly using one of a kind types of stocks. I'm trying to create concepts for small quantity production items that sell well. That way I can get the making process more cost effective. Right now I don't feel my rates are high enough, but I think I need to be more well known to get my prices up. (Also finding the right clientele is the main target of work.) As far as I know artist blacksmiths in Hungary struggle unless they have market from Western Europe. Bladesmiths do better both in the local and outside market. I have no clue of their rates, no one talks about that and they take questions as offense. Rates of other blue collar trades vary widely geographically (yes, even in the tiny little Hungary ) I'd say mine is in the lower middle ranks. And yeah, I'm a beginner as a full timer. Trying to get known, trying to find territories in the craft that can be mined successfully, trying to do something different that others do around here. I have very-very much to learn about keeping a business, and thinking like some kind of businessman I like this craft very deeply but I know it won't be enough if I can't pull my things and myself together. Right now my main "production line" is small items that sell at craft fairs. Also doing smaller or larger commission stuff. Sometimes agricultural things come in, where hot work and welding meets and no one else can have it done. Bests to all: Gergely

Great work, Theo!

@jlpservicesinc I think Das said it right. - This lady is one of my best clients. She always lets me create the design completely freely and she always pays more than I ask. I do consider it as a tip. Although this time I'll make a small gift for her. Bests: Gergely

Thank you! Comission work for a client - got paid 25% more than I asked (happily bragging face icon). Ranchmanben - same thing here Bests: Gergely

Finished this pair of curtain rod holders. Made of 44x7mm old (~100yo) MS. This stuff is my #1 favorite to work with: forges like butter, but no problems like WI can have. Bests: Gergely

Hi Aus, This knife was made of a bearing roller, which is a bit simplier to work with but basicly the same as the balls. The method was the same as Michael described. The only thing you have to watch out for when working bearing steel that avoid hitting it when below the low orange heat. It won't forgive. (Also don't get it too hot ) I like this steel very much but it has its own manners. Bests: Gergely

Don't tell anyone that you heared it from me, but yes there are. They even make them... And those are awesome machines, that's all I can tell you now

Dear Ricky, Just be thankful you haven't reached the power hammer collecting phase (yet) Maybe this ought to be said to the spouse, too. Bests: Gergely

You've still got it, James! I like these blade shapes very much! Inspired by your earlier works I wanted to try the raised false edge, too. Although I was thinking a parang style knife. We'll see if I get it done before springtime... Thanks for sharing, and all the bests to you! Gergely

LDW - You got me thinking! Thank you! G

littleblacksmith - That hatchet is awesome, Mark! Clean lines, well proportioned, classic shape yet very modern look. I like it so much I don't even want to copy it If I may say one thing about the little "viking style" knife: try to draw the handle part a bit thinner. Like a long but gentle taper. You don't need much meat in that part and it looks way more elegant. Bests to you and thanks for sharing! Gergely

Hi Wombat, When there are financial limits my vote goes always to the angle grinder. One 125mm/5", min 900W grinder gives you a versatile power tool for relatively cheap price. You can cut anything, rough grind, fine grind, wire wheel, polish with one tool. And you have most of your money for later purchases. (Work safety is a very important thing before grinders are turned on.) Bests: Gergely

Thank you! This is my last thing before Christmas (and maybe in the old year). Wine bottle holder made of scrap 10mm dia mild steel. In the heart part there are the initials of the owners' names with old Hungarian runes. Bests: Gergely

Great work @58er! Those oak leaves, are they forged in some sort of die? Those weins don't look hand hammered - or if they do you did reaaal great I'm asking this because recently I was tempted by oak leaves but decided to not be ready for them yet. Could use some guidelines... If you don't mind. Bests: Gergely

I thought so too, but actually it's not that bad. I cut it with the 9"/230mm Milwaukee angle grinder. It takes around one minute per cut a slice. One intense minute certainly . It does not need to be too precise to get good results at the end, I need to trim the forged stock back to size anyways so a little too chubby is okay. I do forge it under PH, but it's really not that bad: like 1/2" square at the stems and 1/2 x 3/4 rectangle at the corner. Of course it's way more productive to move it with the machine. My goal is to forge starting stock to shape in 2 heats, dress it with hand hammer in 2 heats, trim it to size and redress the ends in 2-3 heats, and texture it in 2-3 heats. That way I could get ready a pair in 45 minutes. And yeah, power hammers rule! That and my 3 phase 250A MIG welder changed my shop life totally. (Have I told you the time when I took a piece of 60mm dia stock and tapered it into a candle holder? And I have only a 30kg ram weight spring hammer.) Bests: Gergely

I'm sorry for your loss! Best wishes and condolences to you all! Gergely

Thank you @ausfire! As @Michael Cochran said. 2 slices of 100x100x12mm angle iron cut 12mm thick. Drawn out into 190x135x17mm dimensions, and around 4mm thick. (Not exact science but the measurements are towards these figures.) The final size is H: 185, W: 130. This frame goes with the 150x100mm photo size which is very usual around here. My first try was with 10mm square. But I switched to angle iron stock then because it already has the right angle I really want to speed up the process of manufacturing of this. For the leg and back holder I use 100 mm long 5x10mm stock (because it's the lucky horseshoe material, so I always have plenty of it.) Both are forged in "half close die" to have a circle upset at the end. In the middle of the circle comes the drilled hole for the rivet. The legs then taper from the circle part towards the other end. Hope I cleared things up, let me know if I can do more. @John in Oly, WA Will do but I'm afraid not too soon. There are two bowl ideas circulating in my head, one is like yours and the other I've seen made by Claudio Bottero, somehow braided stock, like this: But different style of course. (And I don't intend to step on it ) We'll see, sometimes... Bests: Gergely

@Zeroclick (Hey! I just figured this quoting thing out! ) Thanks! @John in Oly, WA Thanks! She's 3 yo now, big girl or little lady... I like that bowl design of yours so much I may have to try it in steel. Sometimes... No idea when and how but whatever once I'll try it in steel

Nice flowers! I like it very much. Bests: Gergely