T.J.watts

here is the blade so far, still some hand sanding to do before heat treat.

Well, I did not know that. That's what I've always used for finish sanding, i guess I should use something else. As many times as I have mentioned using it no one has ever told me that, thank you.

Just keep at it you'll get it.

Use WD-40 on wet or dry paper, makes the paper last longer and gives a better finish. For a chef knife I prefer less curve on the edge but its looking good.

Well I tried warming the ring and coating with bee's wax and so far there is a light patina on the inside but nothing else.

Makes sense, do you have any pics of the modifications.

Nice

Nice first. I wouldn't redo it, instead keep it as is to compare with the next one. Just curious why 1040?

I like the blade shape, looking forward to the finished blade

I'm sure I'll find some 2" eventually

Check out the scrap yards and see what you can find to use as a swag block or see if there's a local blacksmith group that sells to members. I can get one for $100 as well as mandrels.

I've never done or seen it done but you could probably just stack squares together glued and clamp. Then like you said cut and try it out. You may have better luck if you make the layers thin and cut them in to scale size sections then glue, like micarta. That way you don't have to deal with the layers splitting and it should hold a river better. I'm curious to see how it works and you can't beat a good leather handle. You could also layer different colors together to get a diamond wood effect.

Nice, I grind or file the ridges down on a twist all around, that way it's more comfortable and is more even and pleasing to the eye.

It's coal, I haven't found a source near me for charcoal other than lump coal for grilling. Coal is the cheapest route for now but I'm working on the gas forge.

makes sense

What does the bubbler do, thank you

Well here is the start of the blade after forging and a little grinding. There was a spot while drawing out the tang that the welds broke loose so I rewelded and finished shaping the blade.

I heat treated, etched and repolished. I realized that I was saying the etching mix wrong what I meant was 6 parts water and 1 part ferric chloride.

That's why, the last blade I used it on was already at 800 so that explains the scratches.

Lol thank you

Thanks das, I spoke to a silversmith I know and he said to use renaissance wax. I looked it up and its a micro chystaline polish used in museums for restorations and rust prevention.

I really like how it turned out but the rust is an issue. I think next time I may try 15n20 and 5160.

II made this Damascus ring with band saw blade and flat spring, now I can't keep it from rusting on my finger. I thought about etching and sealing with bee's wax and repolishing. Is there anything that you guys would suggest. I really like this ring and want to keep wearing it but not if its going to constantly rust.

I was wondering because I have some black stick compound and it will leave scratches so I stopped using it.

JPH, does the emery compound not leave scratches?