son_of_bluegrass

I've never tried this but I've heard of people setting a block of dry ice over ground nest of various pests. May work, may not. But it doesn't involve potentially contaminating chemicals like gas/petrol. ron

Canvas is a tightly-woven, usually heavy cloth commonly made from either linen or cotton. Modern synthetics have largely replaced canvas for many applications but tents (the army pup tents were still canvas when I was in a few years ago, the bigger tents were largely synthetics), sail cloth, tarps, oil cloth, and drop cloths all were once made from canvas and sometimes these items can still be made from canvas. ron

Is there a blacksmith club close that makes a bulk buy for members? That's where I got my last ton (though I'm in Ks). ron

What is so cryptic about slowing down to go faster? Not too long back on one of the science podcasts I listen to the episode was on how people who slow down, making deliberate moves and choices tend to get work done faster. Some of the show had to do with sports and how the best players tended to wait until the last moment (slowing down) to excel. This can apply to smithing in two ways, I think. One take your time when working to make deliberate and correct moves to get work done efficiently. and two, don't try to force heat into the work piece too fast- all that does is heat the surface without penetrating to the center which will make the work harder and more work necessary. Thus: slow down to go faster. ron

Often you need to slow down in order to go faster.

As for cooling the fire with too much air, I've seen it when burning charcoal. I've never managed to cool a fire by more air when burning coal.

I have a forge like that and use 1" cotton webbing (available from most fabric stores) stitched together for a belt. I've read where others use leather. And there should be a grate over the tuyere, I don't know if you've added one or not. ron

I got a book some time ago on coopering a bucket. I've tried a couple of small (drinking vessel sized). They didn't quite come out water tight until soaked. I didn't make proper tools, just what i already had. One day I plan on making proper tooling and doing some more. The book I got is http://www.astragalpress.com/howto_make_coopered_bucket.htm

http://www.livescience.com/22686-blacksmith-robot-suit-creation.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+Livesciencecom+%28LiveScience.com+Science+Headline+Feed%29 A blacksmith builds a robot suit. Enjoy. ron

My smithy is around 6+ X 12. Rather small but I do small stuff. My wood shop is 20 X 24. Too small. But it would be workable if I'd organize that (as slab out the tree parts that are destined to be lumber). ron

If memory serves, 1 bar is equal to about 15 pounds. I run my gas at 5-7 pounds for normal stuff and may turn it down once heated. Unless your safety glasses are rated for both IR and UV, you shouldn't look into the forge much. There is more IR produced than UV and both probably will harm vision (UV for sure, some studies suggest IR as well). I think I remember reading that a welders shade 3 provides sufficient protection for your eyes from a forge. ron

Before you do anything, have you looked to see if any of the hammers are worth anything? If you have one collectable hammer in the bunch you may be able to sell that one and buy a couple of straight peens in different sizes. Or maybe not. ron

Another thought has occurred to me. Is the charcoal all a consistent size? And if so, about what size? Large chunks will allow the air to flow through without doing much and really small pieces will tend to block airflow. ron

In my experience, charcoal prefers a side blast. But you can make bottom blast work. Charcoal also likes some form of insulating lining. Another thing, these grills are generally fairly thin sheet metal. Without something to protect it, you run the risk of quickly burning through your forge. Wood ashes work well enough. Do you control the air flow? Or just turn the blow dryer on? Charcoal doesn't need much air, if you aren't choking the airflow down you probably are pushing too much are. The more details you can provide the better the answers will be. ron

No, the question is where do I find these fools? ron

But the tennis racquet handle and the hammer handle both transmit the vibrations and cause damage to the tendons (tennis elbow or blacksmiths elbow). I didn't keep the link, but read some time ago of a study that showed fiberglass was the worst for transmitting the vibrations in both high and low frequencies. If I find some time soon I'll look for it again. I know when I tried a fiberglass handle once upon a time my whole arm was sore for a while. That didn't happen with the wood handle I'd been using previously. Of course this may all depend on the exact formulation of the fiberglass or plastic used. ron

I wear glasses and spend the money for prescription safety glasses because I've been disappointed with everything I've tried that is suppose to fit over glasses other than a full face shield (which I sometimes add over the safety glasses). My advise is to go to a good supply store that will let you try various one over what you wear and see if you can find something you like as what fits someone else over their eyeglasses may not work for your face and glasses combination. ron

I've had the best results with home made handles picked so the grain runs the short way (does that make sense?) and oiled as soon as set in the head. Even that will wear out with enough use. ron

I'm gonna steal that... Maybe not exactly but the idea anyway. Ron

I soak in vinegar then generally brush off the scale with a bathroom brush (or old toothbrush if it's a small piece) using soap and water. I usually apply an oil/wax mix but have used a clear spray varnish with no problems. ron

There must have been a flaw in the wood, I've got one with a walnut handle that is 4 or 5 years old now. It sees regular use. Although I admit I used the walnut because it was on hand and close to size already. I try to use pecan or similar for my handles. ron

The Central States Metal Artisans has (or will have again soon) coal for sale. I believe somewhere between $150 and $200 a ton you load (it is stored on a members land in Maize). Looking at the last newletter I have, coal is the remains of the last order and means sifting from the dirt at a price of 2 1/2 cents a pound. They buy coal from N.E. Oklahoma when they need more in bulk. The August meeting is always Goesel Threshing Days. The above link is still good although now you have to email and ask where the meetings are. I've let my membership lapse so can no longer let you know what is happening. Ron

If the $40 is a deal, what would you call the one (in working order) I picked up at an auction for $17? Good find.

If I was looking for 1 book to learn from I'd get "Plain and Ornamental Forging" by Schwarzkopf. It was written for as a school text book. The next on my list would be "A Blacksmithing Primer" by Randy McDaniel. I haven't laid hands on any of Aspery's books yet so I can't comment on them but I hear they are suppose to be good. ron

The material you are working with matters as well. I don't recall seeing anyone mention some alloys will form carbides that need either a hotter fire or a soak (or both) to dissolve them. Carbides can be extremely hard and will resist cutting and abrasion. For relatively simple steels, heat to non-magnetic or a bit more then slow cool by what ever method available allows for slow cooling (I generally have wood ashes on hand but have left a piece sitting on top of a coal fire). ron