Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  1. I will try my best to adjust things right, it is kind of neat knowing that my forge setup is better suited for wrought iron than modern steels. My goggles are torch goggles so im confident theyre just right for the job. my new insulation came in the mail today, castable 3000 degree insulation and a pottery kiln shelf. If need be Ill put copper tubing underneath the insulation when I cast in, and have a high pressure pump circulating water like what is done in blast furnaces. Thank you everyone for the responses and advice
  2. I was using an imported gas regulator from I want to say Russia or some other country way out there, in Bars, It was set at only 1 bar and my air intake was the entire way open because if it gets closed much the burner gets scalding hot and makes me worry that my propane hose will fail. for my flux I was actually using pulvarized glass that my father had suggested, made things seem pretty easy to weld, I think a lot of my scale came from the 2 standard bricks behind the forge, the stuff all over the one brick was actually iron that I melted out of the brick so im assuming that played a big part in the downfall of the little forge. Im trying to figure out how to have it set just right at the moment, I work with a lot of things such as mower blades, broken files and old kitchen knives so I need to weld them together to get a decent strength, I've so far done a ton of welds all with my glass as flux. and someone previously mentioned the fierce dragonsbreath coming from the opening, it successfully heated a concrete block wall about 20 feet away so much that the paint started chipping off and it was scalding hot to the touch, as well as killing my apron, damaging my tongs, charring my wire brush and burning several gloves that were laying nearby (or on me) My metal certainly did melt, I was wearing a pair of Dewalt tinted safety goggles and could see in the forge and all around through the glare of the fire, and the metal (and insulation) would start sparking and bubbling, several times I looked at my forge and saw sparks shooting out of the end, just to in a panic pull out the piece and have it dripping or accidentally fling it across the area
  3. Recently I came across a little "portable gas forge" on Ebay for $200 and I may add that its the best working little forge. however I recently had a bit of an issue, I wasnt paying attention to my temperature and managed to melt through the ceramic blanket insulation, the firebrick shelf, and the bricks I put on the back of it, as well as several pieces I was attempting to work on. so my question is this, where is it possible to get insulation over 3000 degrees, why do people think its impossible to forge weld with gas, and how do people figure a gas forge will "Make the iron wither away instead of totally melt like a coal forge would do". It took no longer than 2 minutes to end up with a puddle of knife (keeping in mind I was using old lawn mower blades, forge welding them into solid billets and drawing them out) Can someone at least suggest how to better control the little monster? Its maximum PSI capacity is 30, I was operating under that and burnt the forge up (burner is still good!) I have a few pictures below to justify what I just said, the picture of the forge was AFTER I pulled the burnt insulation out just to show how little the thing is, the melted knife, and the insulation, brick, and shelf, as well as a picture of it lit that I took in bright light, with my cellphone
  • Create New...