son_of_bluegrass

Modern welders helmets of shade 3 or higher will protect against both IR and UV (but there isn't much worry from UV emission from a forge). At least that is the case in the U.S. I can't talk about what may be available in your neck of the woods. ron

I'll second (or third or whatever it's up to now) Aldo, the NJ steel baron. I ordered from him the last time I was looking to get steel (I don't use a lot as I don't have as much time as I'd like) and was impressed. ron

I've never use a hair dryer, I was given a hand crank blower so no I'm not sure but I do know that charcoal takes a lot less air then coal having used both. I can blow the charcoal out of the fire pot without trying with the hand crank. It does depend some on the exact configuration of the forge. If I were looking to use a hair dryer (or any electric fan) with charcoal I'd design in a blast gate to control the amount of air that gets to the fire. As for galvanization, it has a particular grey tone that once you get use to becomes easy to spot. As was mentioned, if it's rusty it should be ok. ron

For stitching points (diamond cross section awl, used for making holes in leather before hand stitching), the size it going to depend on the size of needle and thread (or lacing) used. I generally am stitching sheaths so I make my points around 1/8 inch by a bit under 1/16 inch at the base and maybe 1 inch long, tapering to a point like a double edged dagger blade. I have made bigger for some work. I have made scratch awls from roughly 1/4 inch round that I ground as described above with a drill. ron

One thing I haven't seen mentioned it the fuel you plan to use. Since you speak of using a blower I gather solid fuel but there a a few minor differences if you chose coal (anthracite or bituminous) versus charcoal. Charcoal needs less air and a hair dryer may provide too much for that fuel. I haven't used anthracite but have read it takes constant air. ron

I'm seriously thinking about resolving to be more psychopathic.

Using a plastic bag works so long as you turn the bag inside out daily. Turning the bag allows moisture to escape (early on it may condense on the inside of the bag which becomes the outside). If you don't turn the bag often enough, the wood can spalt (start to mold). Personally I coat any endgrain in carpenter glue, that has worked best for me. ron

I make my own stitching points. I leave them almost full hardness and don't worry if they break as they are easy to make and near full hard cuts through the leather much better with little or no resharpening. I've used it on 4 plies of 8-9 oz leather with ease. I use "music wire" from a local hobby shop. I've read that is 1080 to 1095 and it acts that way so I can believe it. I cut to length then just sort of flatten one end hot, then heat treat like 1095 (tempering in a kitchen oven set to 325 F, measured with an oven thermometer) and shape and sharpen on a wet wheel. I don't bother attaching a handle, I use a pin vice to hold the points. It takes all of maybe 1/2 hour to make 8 or 10 points and music wire is cheap so I consider them disposable. ron

I picked up the cotton webbing at the fabric store. Since you don't list a location we can only guess who is in the country you are to be able to tell you what fabric stores you may find. Around here we have Jo-ann's and Hancock. ron

I've played with music wire from a hobby store some. From what I've read it is something like 1080 or 1095, that's how I've heat treated it and it's worked. It is cheap enough to get some and play with for yourself. ron

I didn't click on the button, but if I was interested in the book, I'd call/email and ask about the price difference. I've seen the book listed in a catalog or two I get and if memory serves it was listed for around $25. But maybe they've run out and if so I've seen books when prices run this high get reprinted by some out of the way bookbinder so keep looking. ron

I've been told that mechanism (you're missing the handle in the pics) is transitional from bellows to blower. Later styles have a hand-crank blower instead of the pump handle that works the mechanism to turn the big wheel which has a belt to turn the blower. I have one similar that I use on occasion but prefer hand cranking to pumping. I believe the pump mechanism was mostly available late 1800's. though I could be wrong on that. ron

You haven't looked in the right place for the book. http://www.cambiumbooks.com/books/hand_tools/0964399989/ Didn't look to make sure it's in stock but the price listed is $22.95

This woodworker prefers 1080 or 1095 or the like, many woodworkers don't understand steels and what the pluses and minuses are for the different steels. You just can't get as good an edge on A2 or O1 (I've not seen A1 or O2). They are easy to heat treat and don't require a soak (you generally get better results with alloy steels with a soak) and soak are harder to do well with a simple forge. ron

Searching for the patent date in one of the pictures gives this http://www.datamp.org/patents/displayPatent.php?id=6163 which is a patent for a saw set.

Depending on your skill level and if you want to heat treat and the equipment you have for that, I'd tend towards 1080 or 1095 for those tools. I'm made a couple of small paring chisels and a draw knife from 1095 with good results. ron

Since you're just starting, may I suggest you look on the ABANA (Artist Blacksmith Assn. of North America) site for a close affiliate. There area few in that general part of the world. Go to a meeting and meet some people, you'll likely find a wealth of information that will take years off the learning curve.

Real tung oil was traditionally used to make boats water resistant. But liquid water is a bit different than water vapor. If you use real tung oil not something called "tung oil finish" it should do ok. Some "tung oil finishes" don't actually have any tung oil in them. It does take a while for real tung oil to cure so you can expect one coat to take a week to a month (in cool damp weather it may take several months) to cure. If you're willing to build up 12 or 15 coats it does much better. Linseed oil offers a bit less protection and take just as long to dry. I've had good luck putting 15 coats of linseed oil on stuff but that means 6 or 8 months to complete the finishing. You could soak the sheath for several days in the oil so that it soaks deep into the pores of the wood. It won't fully cure as deep as it penetrates but will give the best results from oil for what you're describing. I'm not a bit fan of poly in any form. Aside from some of the 2 part ones I just haven't found poly to be durable. There are some 2-part wood finishes that aren't polyurethane based that get good reviews. Epoxies tend to give it a plastic look and feel in my opinion but do offer protection. One caveat, any film finish (poly, epoxy, lacquer, shellac, varnish) will eventually wear through or get scratched to reveal bare wood. As soon as that happens the protection is gone. The oils are a bit better in this regard as they soak into the wood. ron

Any wood glue will work if the fit and surface prep is correct. The fit should be tight (no gaps). For surface prep on oily woods, wipe with acetone just before glueing and allow the acetone to evaporate. Coarse sanding may help or may not. The bit thing is DON"T rely just on glue. As wood expands and contracts with moisture uptake and loss the glue will be stressed in ways it doesn't handle well (type of glue doesn't matter for this). There are joints that don't rely strictly on glue or mechanical fasteners (nails, screws). If you try just glueing it will fail faster than if the joint is made so it doesn't rely on glue to hold it together. ron

What are you after? You mention an "even black color and luster". That may be easiest with paint. Or heating a wax may give you the desired look. I've used a propane torch to heat applied wax to achieve a dark look. Heating linseed oil gives a bit of a different look. Do you want to provide a certain look or are you mostly after protection? If you want protection, indoors or outdoors? How intricate are the parts? Paint may obscure fine detail. ron

Will it work, maybe. Will it work well, not likely. Besides if you want to go that route you can probably find the same in a store that sells wood burning stoves without the shipping costs (and maybe cheaper), I've lined a stove with similar for less from just such a place. But as HWooldridge says there is better material out there. ron

What sells and at what price depends on where you are and what the buying public is in the mood for. If you give us an idea of where you are setting up, we may be able to give you a better idea of what to make. Also given the time of the year - think christmas presents. ron

Interesting read. Well I for one am slowly but surely getting ready for the next dark ages. Maybe it won't come but I plan to be ready as that is the way we seem to be heading.

On a whim and with no real plan in place, just a vague idea I made this for myself. Rather simple design. Sorry about the poor picture quality. Just took those on a whim as well. ron

You mentioned I believe HABA is Houston Area Blacksmith Assn. Look them up (ABANA affiliate if memory serves). Show up interested and polite and you'll likely get started.