Charles R. Stevens

For the first 1000 years or so forges were holes in the ground about 6" across and 8" deap. Anvils a reeves 40# or les. A 3-5 gallon steel bucket filled with adobe , a hair drier and a piece of pipe, a second one for your tools (doubles as a slack tub) and your set. Easy to move , easy to set up. Add a quick up shelter and you can forge where you like. Hey Frosty maybe that's what the trucker needs? Add a 20# sledge, a 40# stump and a stool...

I'm a farrier, so my primary forge lives on the back of my truck. That said, I've worked out of a trailer, Ive even set up a canopy to do demmoes and such.

Horus, I resemble that! :-D

A better use? Probably not. Tho I'm always dubious of double ended hammers that don't have at least one flat face. I am constantly straitening, flataning and adjusting. That said, I know their are other smiths that use drawing hammers and like them.

Note, a hard hammer face is not a bad thing. As long as you don't kit something hard with it. How hot and how long did you temper the head in the oven? What radius is the pein? Look forward to seing the reciting of the second cross pein. Do you plan to forge a pein on the third hammer? Sorry for the string of questions...

Around here they make "T" posts from old rail. If its rail and if its the kind of rail used in the US I would think it is 50 point carbon. I'd certainly perform shop tests on it to see what it dose.

Please post your work, the senior members just might surprise you, the newbies need he insperation, and all of us will have an opertunity to learn a new way to aproche a blacksmithing project. Your not the only one to grab an old shoe, or a peice of rebar to tackle a "honey, you we a blacksmith..." Situation around the house. By the way, my better half's mother (73) has been informed that she will most likely be joining the wheeled croud. I'd like to be able to show her how she can enjoy her hobbies from a new perspective. Can I use you and your smithing as an example?

A lose grate works, just reach in and jiggle it . Easy to make one that looks like a yin yang sight out of half inch

At least you didn't put a lot of time and money in it before you figured out it wasn't a great idea. But the tubbing is still good suff, put it in the materials pile.

Actually if take the hole in the bottom and run with it. Clay the grill, like you would an old cast forge, make a "ducks nest" a bowl about 6" across, and 6-8" deap. A pipe cap with a 3/4" hole in the top will work, as well as casting a peice of 1/2" (old bolt) in the clay. Fab up a duct and ash dump out of black pipe and your good. Make it at least as big as the hole in the bottom. Ok, reverse the order. Build the twear first than clay. Ok, tell you what, get out your measuring tape and give me a length, width, depth and size of the hole in the bottom. Then we can brainstorm with you and help get you hooked up. On the wife front... Learn to forge roses ;-)

Granit bolder, 20# sledgehammer head, 2"+ solid set on end, rail set on end... I've seen a lot if other things used too. Train couplers, train axles, heavy forklift tines, dozer parts... I think Frosty and I have Ben guilty of using a stump and a Woden malet.

Put your hand over the out out nozzle and try again. The back preshrunk makes it easier to spin.

I use nothing but carbon steel knives, they all are variations of dark grey and black. If needs be a green scots brite pad will remove any rust that may creep up if you forget and mistreat your knife. Like cast iron it takes a bit of care but some of my knives are over 50 years old.

Cota, don't be put off by their gruff manner, you have 3 of the best knife makers on this forum takin time to answer up. Read the knife class stickies. Post pictures if your work, what you have used for steal and how you heat treated it, and how they preform. If your as good as you think you are, they let you know it, if no they'll let you know it to. Take that to the bank. They will also help you improve your prosses, and your product. Wen I get ready to make my first knives I'm going to ask them to pick them apart.

One of the other threads on pot hangers , I think it was Frosty talking about double hangers so the pans can be hung face to face.

Welcome to my world Steve. Least ways that's what my daughters tell me ;-)

Information overload ;-)

As to the original, consept. Rapping 1/4 square around a mandrel, one and a half raps, forge nice feet, twist the legs. One has to have a split attachment for the horn, as it forms the third leg. It drill or punch and slip the horn and bracket over the horn and clinch a cobblers tack or two. As for the drive spike, just like a drive hook, bend it back on its self to form a head, then forge a "C" to hold the horn. No need for a rivit or a nail as gravity will hold the horn. As to lighting, pored in place candles, inserted candles, liquid paraffin candles or fake Led candles (last two being the safest) Ah, for the days when RPG ment dice, and paper not bits and bites.

I think it's the costume and forge! You look the part so it works ;-) Congratulations, I still get impatient and/or hit it to hard. I will admit I like charcoal for welding, gas forge is to picky and I don't like what the flux dose to it.

If it is applied hot (like seasoning cast iron) it won't wash off with hand washing, but it will wear off. But will be just fine as long as the dry it off and keep it dry.

Like most of you I have a long list of near epic failes. The two ill share are on of mine, and one of an old friend. Every day when I dress (or undress for that matter) I am reminded to use a wip as an arm extension. When I first started training horses I had a PMU, draft mare that wouldn't move forward. I stepped in, beside her right hip and gave her a love tap on the rear. She returned the favor. I have a scar that runs around my left shoulder, and a across my bicep. As well as one on my forearm. I took both feet, full extension ( the rule is to be far away or snuggled right up to the back end of a horse). Ex said she never saw the mare move but I flew 6' up and 15' back. 6" to the right... Now for the story of "ten penny" a retired carpenter I once new, related to me how he got his handle (after more than a few beers) he was installing stiles on a porch railing. He braced up against the top rail ( he's rather tall) and as carpenters ar want to do he had the airnailler cranked up... Nailed a rather sensitive (and to my half of the species) and important piece of his anatamy to his thy. New the man 5 years before he let me in on how he got his nickname.

The "Tommie sticker" uses a thin spring like cup to hold the candle, the "sticker" is for sticking it in to wals, beams, treas and "Tommie's"

If they dry it and put it away they'll be ok, if the throw it in the dish strainer of the dishwasher it will rust. I have a mild steel ladle that is over 20 years old and carbon steel kitchen jives that are over 50.

I don't know what DOT has to say, be it US, Canadian, state or provence. I'd say your probably road worthy, but if you have an accedent some on is going to blame the rim, and try to hold you liable, your insurance may try to wiggle out of paying and you'll have to resort to suring the repair guys. If its a company truck, and they're aware of the damage and repair then no problem but if its your truck and trailer I'd replace it (yes 22.5 aluminum rims are spendy) one less thing to wory about.

Vaughn is right, your over thinking this. All you need is hole in the ground. If you can put the peice of ground in a box of some kind all the better. Lets try and expand your thinking. Wooden box, made from 2x10 lumber, bottom third of a 55 gallon drum, old wash tub, old bucket, half an old cross bed tool box, old charcoal grill, old tool box, large ammo can... All of witch cam be made into side blast forges just stick a piece of pipe in the side 6" or so from the top, fill with dirt, sand or abobe scoop out a hole about the size of bothe your fists together and about 8" deep wear the pipe comes in. You can also lay bricks to make a hearth, stack bricks up to make a wall with an air hole at the bottom ( can do this with adobe, steel or stone) and pile coal or charcoal against the wall, If you want bottom draft you can take any of the above containers and put the pipe in the botom, and line it with mud, or weld up a fire pot, or just buy a 6" into 2" black oipe reducer, Their are a ton of ways to get their. As you progress as a smith you will learn how to make something into something else. How to come at things from all the angles.