Charles R. Stevens

Look for old swamp coolers, the pans rot out but the plenum and fans are usually still in good shape.

Remember this is a "G" rated forum.

Couple of things I've learned from the docs when they have patched me up. Don't ever put anything in a wound that they have to scrape out. Tripple antibiotic ointment and such is ok for small scrapes but it's patrolium jelly bases and has no place in a wound that will need stitches. Irrigating the wound, in the field will greatly reduce your chances of infection. A can of sterile saline (non-buffered) works well, drinking water if nothing else. Take a first aid class (or have your mom teach you ;-) when things go side ways you will revert to your training. Carry a cell phone, even one that has no plan will still dial 911 (remember that # I've had Peaple ask me for the # to "911") many local despatch centers can triangulate your phone (much more common in rual counties and receive text) Carry a two part kit, one for the small stuff, a good quality bandaid will reduce your chances of an infection, infection is a real risk. And something a bit more substantial for a big mess. Vaughn, glad your ok, Glenn is right about aspirin, the doctors are getting where the don't even like to use children's aspirin any more, still great stuff for a headache but not long tearm. Glad your still with us, even if I rib you about your mom.

Long a go in a place far away I was an EMT, and a soldier, and a forest fire fighter... Any way, to day I carry a pretty extensive first aid kit, it is horse eccentric but it's also cheap and effective. It's in a 6 pack size soft sided cooler, with a hard insert, red. The primary contents are cheap premie diapers (hoof bandages) cheep maxipads (excellent trama dressings), cotton bating (old towls or shipping boots for padding the wounded limb) vettrap (a coadhesive dressing like the stuff your mom used but cheaper and about 4" wide and 15' long, stored in a small plastic tackle box that holds 6 it's isles If it gets squished as it sticks to its self, kids and careless stockers can ruin it) 4x6 non stick gaus, provadine iodine, drinking water, salt and a spray bottle. ( mix at .5% each salt and iodine, use spray bottle on stream to irrigate wound) duck tape (secures hoof bandage as well as emugency founder package) Now I keep some cloth finger bandages, superglue and coming soon, Celox if I get really stupid. Now this works for me, it can patch up a horse or me untile I we can get to the vett (wish the state would let him treat me too) As to the Celox, it is an artificial clotting agent made from shrimp and crab shells that will plugg up a leak fast, and the doctored don't have to scrape and wash it out like Kwikclot (it uses potters clay) stuff ain't cheap but it's standard issue on the battle field and for EMS thesis days. You can get it in little 2 gram nose blead packs that work well on small nail and hoof knife cuts. Any way, just food for thaught on what you can put to gether to slow down the leak till you can get patched up, that is if mom isn't around to bail you out (like your mom, mine always asked the same question, "is it bleeding?" If it wasent "stop wining" if it was " wash it off and put a brandade on it" after a wile I just went in and cleaned it up and if a brandade wouldn't cover it I used a wash cloth and went to the vett, err doctor)

That would be great, I'm building fence and training horses this weekend so I'll be home.

Oh, I'd love some, never turn down good steel. As to Big Sexy, his wife may disagree as to who's horse he is. (Big Sexy has a different opinion as to who ownes who)

brass alloys, some forge some don't. Try working it cold, and just heating it to dullest red and anneal it between work cycles. You still may get no joy.

I'm bad with names, dose John live over on Garvin Paint Rd?

I live in Bradley and shoe horses around their. I bet my truck even looks familiar.

4140 might work for knives. It's relitivly forgiving of forging tempts, and is relitivly easy to heat treat. I'd love to have acces to your scrap pile.

I bet you work with more than A36 in the shop.

Thommas, as you probably remember, Lindsay is snake dab in the middle of the oil industry here in Oklahoma. I didn't even think about E1 over in Chickasha, they are the regional fire truck service center, as well as drops from Chickasha manufacturing.

If your free the 18'th,or if your going to the state fair, they will be glad to sighn you up on the spot. Even if your not a member you'll be welcome to attend any meeting.

I think there is a meeting saterday. If I'm right it's in sulfur at the fair grounds. Might be a bit ligh with the State fair but every one I've met threw the club are good Peaple.

Haven't done any blade work, tho I've thaught about exploring it. I have been, but I forgot to pay my dues this year.

YoungHammer. Don't sweat it. You have the right attitude. Obstinate, steel certainly is. Frank, glad to hear you'll be in my neck of the woods, business? Just so you know, there's always a place at my table for you. Geoff, can't say I have, but send him my way and I'll put on a pot of coffee.

Dang well of to good start.

A the joy of spending money! It has been said he who dies with the most toys wins. Looks like your off to a good start.

Young hammer, just a heads up. Rich and Steve are excellent knife makers, they are the authors of the knife making class sticky, Thommas is a good smith, particularly in the relm of "old school" (read that as 500 years or more) Big Gun and Dan are exelent smiths as well. JMC and Geoff do excellent knife work as well. If these men are taking the time to give you advice, I'd listen up. None if them have steered me wrong. Second, I'd suggest joining the south fork craftsmen, our state blacksmith (and other artisan) association . You might even find a member or two close by to help and to car (truck?) pool to meetings with.

Thanks Ian, I'm looking for outdore hardware, particularly the clips for holding the bottom board on turf roves Looks like it would forge about like medium carbon. A rusted surface isn't a problem it's rotting away that I want to avoid..

Might consider 3 peice construction. Forming a foot, stem and bowl. This would alow you some leeway as to stem design. Infact you could get a much more artistic product (say a grape vine for a stem). "Penny" welds would be a classic way of coneting the peices. Allowing you to braze additional eliment a if you wanted (grapes or leaves) to the finished cup.

Afraid not, just remember Brian Brazeal mentioning it in a hood descusion thread. Might try PMing him. BrianBrazealBlacksmith.

As my kids say, I'm tech challaged. I wouldn't even know how to check my settings.

Break out the helments and dig in, Frosty's a think'n! Sorry I couldn't resist :-D As always, said with love and respect Frosty, dosnt Brian just use a 10" duct about a 18" off and a foot to the side of the fire pot? Most of the 12" stacks move a lot of air, even if the smoke comes out the sides under the plate, most would find its way up the stack.

Worst comes to worst there's always a grinder ;-)