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I Forge Iron

Charles R. Stevens

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Everything posted by Charles R. Stevens

  1. Ok, 1650- 1830 F for forging 1380 to anneal Thanks Rich.
  2. Any one have experience working with 3CR12 stainless? My google foo isn't the greatest, and it's clogged up with land rover frames and extended range tanks. I'm still looking, but haven't found specks on forgebility. Weld ability, yes but not forgebility. So fare it looks like a more economical choice than 304, and more risistant than Corten for ground contact, and a better patina. If some one finds a good speck sheat I'd apretiate it
  3. Looking at what you have, I'd consider mounting the big peice in end, and using the large diameter axle as a bick. The large peice of link can steadily find a great use, say as a bolster plate and hardy tool plate. Roof stuff. Thor, what the heck is it?
  4. A very servicible solid fuel forge can be built with no welding, and very little to no cash outlay. Basically a 8" deap and wide hole with a 3/4" to one inch pipe sticking into the side an inch or so of the bottom. One can also build it as a trench, say two walls, 6-8" apart, 10-12" long and about 8" high. With a hole in the middle of one wall about an inch of the bottom. You can even leave of one wall and just bank the fuel against it. Ad something to move air, say a hair drier with the hating eliment unplugged. Forges have been made of dirt and stone a long time befor cast or welded fire pots. It's a cheep, dirty way to get started.
  5. Might consider turning that hunck of rail on end. Smaller striking surface, but better use of the mass. A little work with grinder and the edges of the web and flange become tools also.
  6. Seth, lets see your new hammer. If you bought it from a smith it's probably ready to work, if you got I from a box store or a tool dealer it probably needs dressed. There are articles about dressing hammers in here some where, but it's worth revisiting.
  7. Good news is I don't see a big cresty neck on the mare. Tho it doesn't absolutely rule out Cushing's ( insulin résistance), it's common a symptom. Like type II diabetes in humans it contributes to foot problems. I look forward to seeing better hoof pictures, at this point It looks like the flare on the toe has led you to leave the heals a bit long, but I can't say that with certainly untile I see the side and bottom views. I know Master Turley, I think faster than I type. I should slow down and insure that 1; I have spelled it correctly and 2; my phone hasn't substituted something that makes me look like a bigger fool than I am. I know it's probably common knowledge, but for me it came as a surprise to learn that parking out was to make it easier for lady's to mount their tall park horses.
  8. Add a propped set of gards and wards and I'd like to see some scuzball with is Lockpick set he ordered of the net oppen it. Out standing work.
  9. every one dosnt likehaving a 1000# animal lean on you?! I must be crazy or something...
  10. Glenn has answered the same questions a few thousand times, he has also put a lot of time and money into setting up this sight so the answers to your questions are here and recorded for posterity. So, read, ask read some more, try, show us the results and ask again, read some more and try again... There are smiths here that make their living smithing, some that teach the art, some that just love to shape hot steel.
  11. As fare as hijacking, that why I started the thread. If you got a question ask. We aren't vets, but honest horsemen and smiths. I wouldn't be surprised if a vet isn't here on IFI tho. Rich, Frank thanks for chimeing in.
  12. Hard to find fault in Rich's advice. You give me the feeling you have a good head on your shoulders, and a good heart so I'm confertable trying to educate you so you can make informed desk soaks about your horse. In a case of severe neglect were as the feet look like pankakes and you have to make two nipper runs, trimming the hoof back to proper angles. The majors issue is that the horse will end up standing on his soles for a week or so. For a lamitic horse with "slipper foot" as Rich points out, you sawsall the toe off and carve a foot out. In some cases all your landmarks are squed because the hoof has dropped at the coronary band and exposed the coffin joint ( the joint between P1 and 2) At wich point you really need experience (I've looked at a lot of X-rays of feet befor and after I carved on them). In such cases the muscles attached to the flexor and deep flexor tends a may have srunck and we would have to consult with a vet for a surgical itrovention so we can get P1 in proper relation to the ground. After all that, get us some more pictures. We need her hoves and pasterns, from the side, the clean hoof strait down on the sole, front and rear, as well as a full body side view. You will get a better opinion, especially if its time to call in specialists, or wrather a good balanced trim is in order.
  13. I you use solid lumber, I would recommend using toung and grove, do not glue it, leave a bit of a gap, say an 1/8" for kiln dried lumber. If you want it hallow to use a come core, you now must chose, eithe hardwood plywood with falx joints milled in or then hardwood bead board ( 3/8" T&G) with an interior fram made up of rails and styles. If your after security, old locks (non toubler) are hard for the modern their to pick, as they lack the tools and know how.
  14. Yep, untile recently most anvils had no horn, and a bick was used. As to getting fancy, you can also use a peice of heavy wall square tubing, with a coller welded to it for a hardy hole (think small receiver hitch) If you have a square or rectangle for an anvil, some of the knife makers will radius the edges to act as fullers, and you can go as far as makin the other faces in to swages. If you look at a modern anvil, the feet, form swages, as do the under sides of the waist under the horn and the heal.
  15. 60# of hard steel bedded solid on a good stand will search well, find a heathy peice of shafting to make a bick and your gold.
  16. Sounds like corn acts a lot like coal, in the regard to burning hallow. Nice thing about having the forge up and running is it can help build the rest of the table and stand. I bet you can find your self a big chunk of steel to beat on. Even use a slege or a splitting maul until you find something better.
  17. Knocks, I need to see the sides, as well as the soles. Just at first blush you look pretty good. Still some flare and it extends pretty high. As to shoeing, we have to consider a few things, is she lame bare foot ? What are your plans for her, shalt term and long term as well as looking at the feet them selves. Shoes are a theroputic appliance and if she needs them she needs them if she don't, save yourself the $ and her the health risks. As to shoeing. If we chose to shoe, one of two things must be true, either her frogs extend to the ground serfase of the shoe or you use an artificial frog pad. Like other smiths you'll get 5 dice rant opinions from 3 farriers. Oh, and a side pick of the whole mare will help too
  18. Ok, so what you want is a long mortis in the bar? If you use a punch instead of a chisel, flat bottomed with all the edges slightly chamfered and a slight rock, or a very blunt point to the business end on the long axis it will give you a better form to start with, then drift to final shape. I know it's counter intuitive.
  19. Christmas is coming, it is something you can put in there stockings, instead of your precious coal
  20. Next time use a slitting punch instead of a chisel. You'll get a much cleaner opening to work with. What kind of finished opening are you trying for?
  21. We're smiths, if we wanted to do things the easy way, we would be potters.
  22. Yep, labor is a cost, even if your paying your self.
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