arkie

Do you think old rubber automobile floor mats would work?

Frosty, thanks for the heads-up. I'll be sure to not pause on that channel. Hopefully, if and when that show goes off the air, anvils and other blacksmith items will cease the cost and availability spiral.

It was probably not anywhere as built up with buildings in the area during the time anvils were being made, but I wonder where or how they got the enormous volumes of water necessary for quenching?

At least you aren't firing up something small like a Mr. Volcano forge in your room with 1 lb. propane bottles!!!!!

John eluded to the piece in later posts....

Michael, anvils are a lot like land.....they generally appreciate in price. That being said about "good" anvils. Cast iron trash, not so much so. The anvil which I now have for some 13 years probably would sell for at least twice what I paid for it. Everyone's experience will vary. If you're happy, don't look back.

John,.....a "practice" piece? That nautilus looks great as is! Looking forward to a "finished" piece.

To clarify a bit on the two different lube fittings for those who may not be familiar with them. A "zerk" fitting, BillyBones' grease nipple for injecting grease, is shaped like a miniature soda bottle with a tiny spring-loaded ball in the tip (for preventing back flow, if under pressure, or just leakage). An oil filling fitting is simply a small tube with a spring loaded flap on top, sorta like a miniature toilet seat (not the one with a big hole...LOL).

Randy, if I could buy that Hay Budden for $2/lb I would trade in my wife!! Thirteen years ago, I paid about $2.75/lb for my 167# HB. That one in the good shape it's in would probably fetch $4/lb or more in these parts!

Alexandr, the stair rails are so delicate and pleasing to the eye...great work!

Beautiful work on the grating door and hand rail

That will work great. Should last for years. If you wear an apron a lot, the heavy ones are miserable in hot weather.

Para, (I like George's shortform) if you would like to roof and/or do the sides with sheet metal, some of the metal roofing companies might have drops from other jobs that you can use. I got several to put on the side of my carport to block the glare from sunlight next to my anvil (and some wind too). You can overlap the shorter pieces. They might just give them to you if you tell what you are using them for, and a forged bottle opener might seal the deal. Don't worry about mismatches...paint works. Have fun! Making a smithy is almost as much fun as using it.

Randy, indeed I do! Great memory! This one is 12' x 20' with a 8' eave so that I can walk under it. These come in all sizes, some installation is included in the price; some are DIY assembly. You can also erect all sorts of posts, rafters and roofing material of your choice from scrap and purchased materials. Gets a little cold and windy in the winter, though! BTW, after this picture was taken, I installed a 12" flue pipe from the forge sloping out to the roof peak in front.

And......If you plan on coating the utensils post-forging for cooking, serving and/or eating utensils be sure to use food-safe coatings such as beeswax, canning paraffin, etc.

Frosty, that moose hide apron looks like it would stop a bullet....just don't try it!!!! LOL

I don't have any experience with gas forges, but with coal getting nearly impossible to get in my area and charcoal (which I'm using now) is expensive (no, I'm not gonna make my own...), I'm considering getting a Mr. Volcano to supplement my main solid fuel forge for the small stuff. Why fire up a forge and burn lots of fuel for a small item...? Very inefficient. I can buy a Mr. Volcano for the cost of about 3 bags of lump char.

I'm with the rebar crowd, LOL. A bit lazy, I am. When I make my snails (could be small ammonites, I guess), I grind the ridge off the rebar, then coil up the spiral shape. Ammonites and snails don't have ridges down their backs.

Jen, breathtaking work! The Trident and now, the hoof knife, are pieces of art. So much work and care you have put into both pieces. Is the knife blade stainless or just a high polish on high carbon steel?

Scott, here is a photo of a slabbed ammonite. I don't know if it's too detailed for your forging. There is no copyright...this is a personal sample I own in my collection of fossils. Feel free to use it as you (or anyone else) wish.

Congratulations on being a new owner of a HB!....and the Pennsylvania rifle to boot!! What caliber is the rifle?

Well, grab it as soon as you are able...Hay Buddens are a premium anvil. It won't last long on the market.

There are myriads of ways to build out the shop; however, I would suggest not leaving the dirt floor recessed as in the picture. For starters, I suggest getting a load of gravel, say 3/4" to 1" size and fill it in. If you get a lot of precip, the dirt floor will become muddy. The gravel will be more "comfortable". Happy forging!

If there was significant rust on the face, that may have dampened the rebound somewhat. Check the rebound again after you have wire brushed the rust off as best you can....NO GRINDING!

Cast iron brake drum forges are not all that bad. Mine has been used continuously for ten years now and shows no signs of degrading. Just don't dump water on it while hot or it WILL crack. Also, welding steel to cast iron may be tricky; cast iron takes a certain amount of care and technique to weld. I would recommend bolting any reinforcement to the bottom if needed. Bolts can rust, but are easily replaced. Drum placement in concrete is not what I would want to do as George pointed out. Mine is just sitting in a hole in 1/4" plate. The weight of all the air plumbing + the drum keeps it in position. Brake drums are OK for coal, but charcoal needs a deeper firepot.