arkie

And......If you plan on coating the utensils post-forging for cooking, serving and/or eating utensils be sure to use food-safe coatings such as beeswax, canning paraffin, etc.

Frosty, that moose hide apron looks like it would stop a bullet....just don't try it!!!! LOL

I don't have any experience with gas forges, but with coal getting nearly impossible to get in my area and charcoal (which I'm using now) is expensive (no, I'm not gonna make my own...), I'm considering getting a Mr. Volcano to supplement my main solid fuel forge for the small stuff. Why fire up a forge and burn lots of fuel for a small item...? Very inefficient. I can buy a Mr. Volcano for the cost of about 3 bags of lump char.

I'm with the rebar crowd, LOL. A bit lazy, I am. When I make my snails (could be small ammonites, I guess), I grind the ridge off the rebar, then coil up the spiral shape. Ammonites and snails don't have ridges down their backs.

Jen, breathtaking work! The Trident and now, the hoof knife, are pieces of art. So much work and care you have put into both pieces. Is the knife blade stainless or just a high polish on high carbon steel?

Scott, here is a photo of a slabbed ammonite. I don't know if it's too detailed for your forging. There is no copyright...this is a personal sample I own in my collection of fossils. Feel free to use it as you (or anyone else) wish.

Congratulations on being a new owner of a HB!....and the Pennsylvania rifle to boot!! What caliber is the rifle?

Well, grab it as soon as you are able...Hay Buddens are a premium anvil. It won't last long on the market.

There are myriads of ways to build out the shop; however, I would suggest not leaving the dirt floor recessed as in the picture. For starters, I suggest getting a load of gravel, say 3/4" to 1" size and fill it in. If you get a lot of precip, the dirt floor will become muddy. The gravel will be more "comfortable". Happy forging!

If there was significant rust on the face, that may have dampened the rebound somewhat. Check the rebound again after you have wire brushed the rust off as best you can....NO GRINDING!

Cast iron brake drum forges are not all that bad. Mine has been used continuously for ten years now and shows no signs of degrading. Just don't dump water on it while hot or it WILL crack. Also, welding steel to cast iron may be tricky; cast iron takes a certain amount of care and technique to weld. I would recommend bolting any reinforcement to the bottom if needed. Bolts can rust, but are easily replaced. Drum placement in concrete is not what I would want to do as George pointed out. Mine is just sitting in a hole in 1/4" plate. The weight of all the air plumbing + the drum keeps it in position. Brake drums are OK for coal, but charcoal needs a deeper firepot.

Terry, rub a little flour on the sides then gently dust off and the lettering might show up better. Welcome to IFI...!!

Frosty, just be glad you don't live in Phoenix!!! (Or anywhere SW or S for that matter....) I feel badly for all those folks. Oh, but it's a dry heat, right? DUH

A jungle indeed! So beautiful. It is amazing that in one season it appears tropical and in an opposite season it is all covered in snow. The plants must all be cold tolerant!

Do you mean Bayer's Seresto?

Interesting video. Thanks for posting. The high volume of water flowing through the pit is probably similar to the flow of water that Mousehole Forge used in the partial diversion of water from the River Rivelin and the mill pond when quenching their anvils. The flow at Mousehole probably was somewhat less. (Source: Richard Postman's book, Mousehole Forge).

I got a notification via Youtube on new videos from Technicus Joe (aka Joey van der Steeg)...long time no post. When I opened the two new threads they were about restoring a Ford Model A car.????? Thought maybe his videos had been hacked. If you listen carefully to the audio, it appears to indeed be Joey's voice. BIG departure from blacksmithing.....!!!

Dust the sides with flour and see if any markings show up. Sometimes very hard to see without help.

Bonnskij, I'm not a "knife person", but I have to say that your knives and cleavers are some of the most beautiful I've ever seen. The lines, wood colors/grain, shapes......Almost makes me want to become a "knife person".

I enjoy making things with horseshoes....but despise RR spikes!! I only use various sizes of new shoes. Old or used shoes (1) have to be cleaned...more work, (2) the toes of used shoes usually are worn to a sharp edge. Not very attractive in a piece of work and sometimes can be dangerous. A very few folks have wanted me to use old shoes for sentimental purposes. What's really fun is if one can find shoes made for Clydesdales!!

Check out some of the YT blacksmith videos. I'd suggest John Switzer, Black Bear Forge, for starters.

I suggest doing an internet search on "G". I found a few around Atlanta, but getting it to Arkansas would have been prohibitive...I deleted the sites, of course.....

There is/was a company in Minnesota with the name Old Globe, etc. (can't link commercial sites) that at one time sold wrought iron from the grain elevators. It was mostly bar and rod. I bought a bunch of rod back in 2017, but I don't know if they still have any to sell. You might google the name and see if there is any contact info. I believe they only sell wood from the elevators now.

John, exquisite work on the railings! The scrolls just flow as if in the wind. I really like the way you mounted the rail to the steps; ornate and functional.

I wouldn't do anything to the anvil. You have nothing to prove...the flaws are obvious. Simply take it back with the flaws marked and get a refund. HF is usually good about honoring bad purchases. Spend your money on something of better quality.