arkie

Terry, rub a little flour on the sides then gently dust off and the lettering might show up better. Welcome to IFI...!!

Frosty, just be glad you don't live in Phoenix!!! (Or anywhere SW or S for that matter....) I feel badly for all those folks. Oh, but it's a dry heat, right? DUH

A jungle indeed! So beautiful. It is amazing that in one season it appears tropical and in an opposite season it is all covered in snow. The plants must all be cold tolerant!

Do you mean Bayer's Seresto?

Interesting video. Thanks for posting. The high volume of water flowing through the pit is probably similar to the flow of water that Mousehole Forge used in the partial diversion of water from the River Rivelin and the mill pond when quenching their anvils. The flow at Mousehole probably was somewhat less. (Source: Richard Postman's book, Mousehole Forge).

I got a notification via Youtube on new videos from Technicus Joe (aka Joey van der Steeg)...long time no post. When I opened the two new threads they were about restoring a Ford Model A car.????? Thought maybe his videos had been hacked. If you listen carefully to the audio, it appears to indeed be Joey's voice. BIG departure from blacksmithing.....!!!

Dust the sides with flour and see if any markings show up. Sometimes very hard to see without help.

Bonnskij, I'm not a "knife person", but I have to say that your knives and cleavers are some of the most beautiful I've ever seen. The lines, wood colors/grain, shapes......Almost makes me want to become a "knife person".

I enjoy making things with horseshoes....but despise RR spikes!! I only use various sizes of new shoes. Old or used shoes (1) have to be cleaned...more work, (2) the toes of used shoes usually are worn to a sharp edge. Not very attractive in a piece of work and sometimes can be dangerous. A very few folks have wanted me to use old shoes for sentimental purposes. What's really fun is if one can find shoes made for Clydesdales!!

Check out some of the YT blacksmith videos. I'd suggest John Switzer, Black Bear Forge, for starters.

I suggest doing an internet search on "G". I found a few around Atlanta, but getting it to Arkansas would have been prohibitive...I deleted the sites, of course.....

There is/was a company in Minnesota with the name Old Globe, etc. (can't link commercial sites) that at one time sold wrought iron from the grain elevators. It was mostly bar and rod. I bought a bunch of rod back in 2017, but I don't know if they still have any to sell. You might google the name and see if there is any contact info. I believe they only sell wood from the elevators now.

John, exquisite work on the railings! The scrolls just flow as if in the wind. I really like the way you mounted the rail to the steps; ornate and functional.

I wouldn't do anything to the anvil. You have nothing to prove...the flaws are obvious. Simply take it back with the flaws marked and get a refund. HF is usually good about honoring bad purchases. Spend your money on something of better quality.

I have had a Hay Budden for about 10 years that I treasure very much. To that end, after EVERY forging I give it a quick wipe with a dry rag, then a quick swiping spray of WD-40. That fights off any moisture and after 10 years, there has never been so much as a spot of rust anywhere on it. A quick wipe with a dry cloth or paper towel before forging clears off any WD left behind. That may seem to be overkill to some, but it's my way of preserving the old girl for many years to come.

Board, like Randy I too have made tongs from nippers. They are usually a higher quality steel than mild steel and make great tongs. With that in mind, while you are forging your tongs from nippers, be sure to NOT quench them while really hot, like red or hotter, lest they might crack and your work will be lost. Black heat quench is OK.

Amen to that!

Beautiful, colorful set of hives! Looks similar to some of the streets in San Francisco, California.

The primary reason for heating during a rust removal process is that the expansion/contraction helps break the iron/rust bond.

I recommend heating the bolts, not red hot, but hot with a propane torch then immediately spraying with PB Blaster. Heat, repeat. Let soak. Another tried and true method is a mixture of 50% ATF and 50% acetone. Don't heat for that mixture. Some folks recommend Kroil. I've never used it, so can't comment on it.

As John McPherson said in a post back in 2013 (above in this thread....) use this formula: First number = cwt or long hundredweights, or 112 lbs. 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 or more(!!) possible Second number = quarter hundredweights, or 28 lbs. 0, 1, 2, or 3 only Third number = pounds, 0 to 27.

Sounds a little like thermite welding on RR tracks but on a micro scale, LOL

Scott.....Wow! I've also seen photos of those messes in India, Pakistan. Not seen Mexico yet. When all those bundles of wires finally span out to reach the ground, they will become fences between poles!

I have been accused of "over engineering", going the extra step, being a perfectionist, etc. when I make/work on stuff. Thank goodness for blacksmithing where you don't have to measure in 1/16" or 1/32" or worse!!

Jennifer...re your wiring and splicing. I saw this on the welding web the other day. Sort of a redneck splice job, LOL. I hope it was not for real and just a joke!!!