kubiack

I bought a new Peddinghaus a few years ago and it came from the factory with a chamfer ground around all the edges. I ground most of it out when radiusing the edges but I wanted a few places with a smaller radius and sharp edges than I was not able do because of the chamfer. It does not effect the general use of the anvil but I was quite disappointed with it. I would not buy another Peddinghaus I would find something where they let the buyer decide what treatment to give to the edges.

OK, yes you can adjust the opening between the top and bottom die with that. I guess I was not really clear with what I was meaning by adjustment you can not adjust the height at which the top die is square with the bottom die. It is limited to when the dies are touching at the bottom of the arch. If you tried to use top tolling like a punch the hammer would hit it at an angle and kick it back out at you. If you are going to do general work and only have one hammer this would be a severe limitation.

If you look at the plates where the helve pivots there is just a single pin and hole; I don't see any way to adjust the hammer for stock height.

It can draw the acetone out of the tank instead of the acetylene. If you are going to do much heating you will be better off switching to propane for your fuel. It is much cheaper and does not have any limit to how much you can use. A 20# propane tank is pretty inexpensive and can be traded for a full tank most anywhere. You will have to get a propane regulator and a propane heating tip but the cost savings of using propane will pay for those in short order if you use it much.

That hammer is an Easy Helve. I looked at one of those once and decided I was much better off with a vertically oriented hammer. The helve hammer swings the hammer head in an arch and is not adjustable for stock thickness. You will also not be able to use top tooling with this hammer only swages. The only advantage this hammer has over a vertical is when you are welding something like a tire rim where the vertical would be in the way. If you are only going to be drawing out stock and have extra floor space then maybe it would be worth having. I also think that hammer is way overpriced. These just don’t have the demand vertical hammers do and this one is sitting in pieces.

Moving a 50# Little Giant should not be a problem. I have moved mine several times with no more than some wood for skids it and some pipe to roll it on. If you have a pry bar, 2x4s, pipe, and a hand winch that small of a hammer should not be a problem to move. If the hammer has several sets of dies that are in good shape to go with it and he will reduce the price for the missing and cobbled parts the hammer could still end up being a good deal. You say you have all of the equipment to build a tire hammer so you should have everything you need to rebuild the Little Giant. That with the parts availability of the Little Giant hammers I think you would end up time and money ahead by getting the LG and rebuilding it compared to building a tire hammer. A die block and key is going to set you back $750 to $900 depending on the hammer. In my area $3,500 to $4,000 is the going price for a rebuilt hammer in good working order. I’d figure up a price based on all that is needed to make the hammer right and then take the parts price list from Little Giants site with you to show him and make an offer. Did you take any pictures of the hammer? If so post them and we can give you a better idea of the needed repairs and perceived value.

I would bet the OP's plate is cast iron and not steel as he stated. It would make nice plate for welding on as the splatter would not stick but it will not survive being hammered. Don't think this can be use the same way a welding platen would.

Hm, 13 C-Channels - that table almost always rips a hole in my shirt if I'm not wearing a leather apron, I guess I know why now. Yes T-Nuts are on my to do list as well as clamping and other tooling. However if you use the a C-Clamp upside down or a step over type clamp you can clamp anywhere on the table. One thing I like about this design as opposed to a steel plate is if any of the C-Channels gets to warped or damaged it can easily be replaced. Too many of the plate top tables I have scene get warped from tacking pieces to them and eventually the whole top has to be replaced. I have not found a way to keep welding spatter from sticking to steel table top and I have to use an angle grinder to get the worst globs off. I think a ground steel top is eventually going to loose it's accuracy if you use it a lot. I still want to get a 4'x4' Weldsale but this table is pretty flat and stiff.

Here was my solution when I could not find a used one. The base is made from square tubing and I-beam and the top is made from 4" C-Channel. The top is spaced 1 inch apart and each piece is bolted on so it can be easily replaced. Each piece has been shimmed to get the top as level as possible.

The Blacksmith Journal had an issue on making an all steel wheel barrow wheel. It was the Dec 07 issue 203. http://www.blacksmithsjournal.com/view-DBAC203.html

Good job on the fix.

You might check eBay. I have have found hardy and top tools there that were still in very serviceable condition for cheap. It would sure beat forging stock larger than 1.5 inch by hand. You might also look into making a 1.5 inch to 1 inch adapter for your anvil. Then you can use smaller stock that would be easier to forge by hand.

I personally would rather see you put the Easy back to work instead of selling it to a collector. These hammers were built for a long service life and after many years of work can generally be rebuilt and used again for many years. I doubt you are going to to anything to it by using it that is going to diminish its value. I think you should use it and let it go to someone else once you are done with it.

Thanks for the notes. I read about half way through before I got interrupted with work. I may not ever have an engine myself to use any of this knowledge but I do enjoy reading about some of the intricacies that go into making something like this work. It is fascinating to seeing how things were done when in the past when I was not around to participate in them. West Texas is a long way from Michigan but if I ever get up that way I would love to come by and see your shop in person.

I would enjoy reading them however I don't really have a use for the information so I would not want to waste your time. If you already have something in a format that is easy to send I would be happy to have it, if not I would prefer not to waste your time.

What type of gas are you using for your engine? We mostly have the 10% ethanol blend which does not store very long or play nicely with most of the rubber and plastics in older engines. There is still one station that keeps non-ethanol specifically for older automobiles and small engines. Have you experienced any problems using the ethanol blends or can you still get good fuel? Perhaps blending it with kerosene elevates most of the problems with modern fuels.

I looked at the IronKiss web site and it sure looks like he is in business selling hammer. I guess he just has not gotten around to updating it.

The simplest solution may be to inform your customer that the fang is copyrighted and that he may not reproduce it without being licensed to do so. If he is already set up for casting it may be in both of your best interests for you to make them in other sizes and your customer pay you to reproduce them.

Check out Ken's hammers he is now making a smaller 75# hammer that might fit your space.

If there is a market for these cast in brass or bronze then maybe it is time for you to cast them and sell them yourself. I'm sure most people interested in buying such an item would prefer to buy it from the originating artists. I think you should make the other sizes start selling them yourself and thank him for finding you an new market.

I have seen the video of your shaper bending the long U shaped pieces. It sounds like you use it a lot, do you do any other hot operations with it?. I have a 12" shaper I use for making dies but had never thought of using it for hot work, good stuff thanks for sharing. I'll try and keep any further questions line shafting related since that is what you started this for.

With the two larger hammers and presses how much use does your 25# Little Giant get? Anything you use it for that it is either easier to use or does a better job than the Hackney? Great thread by the way. I have looked at your site before but I really enjoy the detail explanations you have put here.

Perhaps is was the clay in the soil and not the sand. All I know is the soil we has made a terrible base. You might have to experiment to find a material that is suitable.

I don't think you are going to be happy with sand as the base material. It will most likely fuse with the burning fuel and cause to much build up. I used dirt in my side blast at first and every time I used it the dirt around the fuel had fused with the clinker and coke into a shell. It wasted quite a bit of fuel and I had to replace 1/4" of dirt when I cleaned out and rebuilt the fire. I found a source for some coal ash and have been much happier with it. We have loam soil here and I think the sand was the main contributor.

I have no reviews on that one but if I was going to spend that much I would buy on of the Outlaw grinders instead. I think they are much better built than the AMK and even the KMG grinders. http://www.outlawwaterjetdesign.com/grinders.html