peacock

I'm looking forward to seeing it. It would be great to get to try it.

I remember the first time I demoed at an ABANA conf. in 98, boy was I nervous but as soon as I hit a hot piece of steel all that went away. You have the skills you need and confidence will build with every stroke of the hammer. I am very excited for this team of young smiths. Can hardley wait!

It depends on the hammer you have. I hink they are pretty hard on Little Giant guides, But no problem on a heavy duty hammer like a Bradley. I use them on my Sa Mak air hammer all the time.

A word of caution Patricks method works well in a mechanical hammer I have used it more than once. Don't try this on an air hammer. You run a great risk of bottoming out the ram and costing yourself way more than a set of dies will cost.

Glad it served a good porpose. and the hammer didn't get wrecked. I think we need to have a class on hammer handling. I have been a few places where the fork lift guy was really bad but didn't know it.

I did the drill, heat and drift deal. It works very well I did have to touch it up with a file as my drift was a little of. Less than 10 minutes file work.

Is the ram round? If so I think it's 75#. pretty good hammers. made 1930 into the late 40's early 50's. sold new for $115.

You can have dovetails cut on a long piece without taper, then cut off short chunks if you use 2 die keys One from each end of the die. this also lets you align the die edges by how deep youdiver the keys on each side. Bradley hammers are made this way, on taper in the male or female dovetail. I do these in a shaper very quick and easy.

If your building to someones plans it most likely will cost you more as you wil have to get hold of what they used. If your going on the cheap you take what you got and figure out what else you have to dig up to make it work. One way to start is take the motor you have and build from that. You really can't build a 100#er with a 1/2 hp motor etc. Grant would have called it vise grip enginering

stewartthesmith I think you should think about your statement about Little Giants being junk. There has been tons of good work done on Little Giant hammers. Maybe you have never had the oppertunity to work on a good one (thats a shame) Just because you don't own one or don't know how to make one run properly does not make them junk. I have owned several and was able to make ALL of them very good hammers. They are not and will never be in the same class as some of the heaver built hammers such as Bradleys etc but the very fact that so many of them has survived while so few of the other brands are around in volume tells the story. I know you have a couple of Bradleys and a Williams and White I think, and love them and they have served you well. I have 4 Bradleys and know they are great hammers. Many people have started with Little Giant and have been pleased with them. others moved on to other brands. The fact that there are new parts that can be easily obtained from a reliable source is huge. A properly tuned Little Giant Is a tool worhty of space in anybodys shop. Ask the 40 some owners of hammers I have rebuilt or the dozens of people who have seen them run by myself or others. I think you owe Sid and Little Giant an apology.

Go to your local farm store and buy a weld-a-sprocket hub the right size for your motor. but the largest OD you can get with the correct bore. then you can weld a piece of pipe over that. makes a quick easy flat pulley.

I wonder why they didn't put a guard over the dies thats the part that will take your fingers off real quick.

I am planning on being there. Great idea, I've been wanting to meet some of you face to face. We have a fair sized group from Bam coming.

You can cut the piece you have into sections and rivet or bolt them to one rotorwith countersunk head rivet/bolts. I would put it on the one with the belt on it. My Depew has the same basic clutch as the 2 rotors, friction mat. fastened to one disc once it got polished up has amazing control. The front side of the driven rotor is just begging for a brake pad. It would be so easy to install with great linkage you have already

Colton you must be a good student. Thats is a great job. Not too many boys your age get to work with fire. Thomas keep him at it and I'll have a15# power hammer ready when he's 10. My grand daughters have a 70# NC anvil on an 8 inch tall stump. No viedo games for these kids. Thomas we are so blessed.

For those who have fought for it Freedom has a sweetness the protected will never taste...Thank you all for remembering. I love my freedom, I hope you love your's.

Nice job. If you ever need to make another one put the taper on the left side so the bolt head don't enterfere.

Sid and I both noticed the tire hammer work shops a few years ago really slowed down the LG repair demand. Result was people started turning loose of hammers they were always going to get around to rebuilding but never did. A year or two went by and the new wore off the tire hammer then they wanted better hammers. With more experience and confidence they are willing to spend more to get more. I also think with lower interest rates people are willing to turn loose of money that is not increasing much. A quality hammer LG, Beaudry, Bradley etc. will most likely hold there money together better. The pendulim swings back and forth

Little Giant price list from7-1-81. 25# $5005.01 50# $6629.43 100# $10,155.91 250# $20,858.55 500# $35,094.65. Thats without motor, switch, ram or belt guards. These items for a 100# added$3006.75. Just thought someone might like to know. I think I read somewhere the last offerings from Chamberburg were around $300,000

Some of the turkish hammers had Tom Clark doing QC big time. He knew and James knows what it takes to make this work. Some one to go to if things go bad is what you are buying. Tom ran every hammer a least 6 hours before it was delivered, if it had a problem He did what ever it took to fix it. I suspect James does the same. By the way the big Bradleys don't give up a thing to the Nazels. If you want a good hammer that hits hard has as much or more control than a Nazel get your hands on a Bradley upright. It will most likely cost about half of the price of a Nazel and will run forever with minimal mantiance. They were made to run 24/7.

I didn't see where she said pig head. The back end would be a lot simpler to make. A little round lump with a curled tail stick out.

A good 50# LG will slug plnuch 1 1/2 to1 3/4 1045 with no problem. The room for tooling can be increased by removeing the bottom die and replacing it with a dovtail just a little higher than the frame. It does not need to be as hard as a die use for forging. any good tough steel will be fine. I have a hole in one end of mine so I don't need to put a bolster up to punch the slug out. it will also save a tool if you drive a little deep. Keep a block handy to set on the die if you need to hit the work on the side to help remove a stuck punch or slitter. I am passing these tips along as they were told to me by Cliffton Ralph. Do not do this on an air hammer as the lower die stack could cause you to damage the ram and guide in the hammer.

Thats the plan. You know me too well. By the way I sent the belt for you blower. and some lace and 2 examples of how to lace it if you want to do it like that. It's kinda lose so you can see it the other is hammered down so you can see what it's like finished.

This one does not need a rebuild she workin shape as is. I am going to mount this up with my 1944 IHC antique gas engine. I will be taking this set up to fesitivals and craft fair and such. Won't be for sale till my kids sell me out.

Hey man you can come look at mine. I have a big 2 lug almost 5 foot long. The leather needs to come off anyway. You can take it home for a while if that would help. I am getting ready to order leather for it. The best price is for a complete hide. but I don't need that much, maybe we could split it.