peacock

That is it. Made in 1901.

It could be down a few inches, no set distance It most likely will not show till you get down to bare cast iron. the flat was filed in by hand maybe 1/2 inch tall and an inch wide, just deep enough to get a flat spot to hand stamp the number

KYBOY 1906 hammers were #905 thru #1106 by my records. 1904 stopped with #790

A 2 hp 1725 rpm motor is what you need. 3 will work fine also but why pay more for something you don't need. You have a very early hammer maybe even made before 1900. Go to the back of the hammer and look a few inches below the main shaft babbit. You are looking for a small flat spot filed in the edge of the frame, clean that up and you should be able to find the serial number stamped if the flat. Will most likely be unde r# 700 I can't tell from the picture if the dies are in line with the hole in the frame or they have been rotated. The first design had them straight with the pass thru hole in the frame later they angled the dies to miss the frame then after about 1904 redid the pattern to remove the pass thru hole. Be careful with this hammer as some of the casting are of very poor quality, and many of the parts are not available for this model. If it is what I think it is the flywheel will measure 15 inches across.

These hammers were made for production shop. Often set up to make 1 part. The bean counters in the front office wanted as many parts in a day as they could get. A lot of Bradleys were set up with closed dies that could hold very close tolerance's. Bradley played to the market, fast hammers made lots of parts quick. I run my 125# at 325 bpm full tilt. It will keep a billet hot a long time if I can manage the speed.

I have 3 Bradley's, and you will need a 7 1/2 hp to run that hammer like it should be run. I have a 125 just like your 150. It takes all of a 6 hp 950 rpm. You can but a 7 1/2 horse low rpm motor but they are expensive. If you go that route you will need some heavy wiring as well. I built a 15 hp phase converter 20 years ago and run several machine off of it.

The 25 & 50 # were made to sharpen plow shares they were close to where the most of the plowing was going on. There were other hammers made in this area but they just were not as good as the LG s. At one time our town of less than 2,000 had three shops that sharpened plows each one had a LG 25. The industrial hammers were made on or near the east coast cause that is where there jobs were. I've rebuilt several LG hammers that never got more tha50 miles from where they were delivered new.

How wide a belt can you run? That hammer should not need 5 hp to run so you will not need a 5 hp belt. I would use the motor because you have it and it is slower rpm. I have the best luck by drilling and tapping the key for a bolt out a 2 or 3 jaw puller then use a sleeve and washer. Put on all the pressuer I can, soak it with ATF and acetone let it sit over night. If you can cut the small end of the keybelow flush get on it with a good fitting drift in a heavy air gun. Be patient, More pressure and hammer some let set etc.

I agree with all that forgemaster said. I will say this if you can move the ram of your hammer side to side or front to back by hand when it is near the bottom of the stroke it can be very difficult to get a square forgeing. The methods that me and the other Phil & others describe are dependant on hammers with tight ram guides. die faces that are flat and true with each other in every plane. If your hammer is not in the best possible condition you CANNOT do quality work, lthe less experence you have the better your hammer needs to be. The ram will take the path of least resistance. If the guides are loose the ram will move one way or the other and once it makes one sidewise movement each one after that only makes it worse. Turning your work end for end will help if done early and often.

Jim I agree about the contact time with the lower die. I do 1/2 my draw then turn 180, do the other 1/2 of that plane then turn 90 and repeate the process. When we turn 90 and hammer right away the sid e that was on the bottom die is a little cooler and does not move as much creating the out of square. The real solution is a bigger hammer. If we have a large enough hammer to forge completly thru the stock the sides 90 degrees from the dies wil bulge out becoming somewhat round then you can turn the stock and set it on the die on the rounded sides to correct the out of square without having to hit the corner. As you get close to the desired size you hit with lighter blows to keep the sides from bulging. The for going is the gospel according to Clifton Ralph.

I've tried that withcold non-ferrous with not much success. I get along really well with my flypress and chrome tan leather pad on both sides

Your hammer has had a new long shaft, and all the clutch assembly changed to the latest stye V pulley and clutch if it has wood blocks. If it does not have wood clutch blocks they used the original clutch spider with the new style pulley.

Some of the later hammers came from the factory with V-belt pulleys. All of the clutches can be moved out the back with a new longer main shaft. Cast iron pulleys can be machined and brazed/welded on the flat belt pulleys. The easiest and I think the best is a coged belt running on the flat belt clutch pulley. You can get pulleys small enough to get the bpm correct the belt will bend around the small pulley, the teeth keep it from slipping on the small pulley and there is plenty of contact on the large pulley. Only modification that needs to be done is trun the crown off the pulley about 50 percent wider than the belt. The low mounted motors alowed the flat belt on the small pulley to wrap around the pulley farther giving it more square inches of contact area. Also the futher the center to center distance the less crictial the belt alignment so the belt will stay on better

Sorry if I had read your post more carefully I would have seen 17 feet wiich I read as 17 inches. Yes it is a strap. the longest hide I can get is about 8 feet long so this would need to be spliced. I can do that but it is going to cost about $150. Baler belt will work, narrowest I can get is 4 inch. !7 feet around here wil be $100 range then would need to be trimed.

the 17 inches makes me wonder if you have a upright guided helve or a upright strap hammer. There are 2 styles of the strap hammer older or later the older has a steel bracket bolted to the top of the helve. The later style the steel brackets are bolted to the side of the helve. they both do the same job just tension the strap differently. The upright guided helve also uses a leather strap to raise the ram. On this hammer the strap is 90 degrees to the ram and there is a rubber cushion between the ram and helve. The Strap hammer has the strap running the length of the ram. Need to know which you have before I can answer.

I replaced the strap on my 125 with 2 layers of 12 oz saddle skirting. After the initial stretch been working great for 6 years. 1 oz.= 1/64 inch thick, its hard to find leather thicker than 16 oz. Think I still have some of the hide left if you can't find something.

Dave so glad you are in this also. Always nice to have someone you have confidence in answer the phone ready to help. Give me a call if I can help.

They are still out there. I showed a picture of one of my rebuilt hammers to a guy I worked with and he said my mother-in-law has one of those. He said she wanted what her late husband paid for it in 1951, $200 I paid for it a Mayer brothers not Little Giant this one made in Wisconsin. took it home oiled it up pit a motor on it runs great it is niw my plow share hammer.

This past weekend Sid and I took 3 Depue power hammers to Loup City Neb. I took the one I run with a old gas engine. This where they were made in the teens and 20's. the factory building is gone but we had the hammers on a trailer so we took a picture with Sid and I. Then we went to a spot they had for us to unload and show them off. We had a great time. pics to follow

Do not repeat do not try to chuck this from the inside. The only place to safely grip this part is on the shifting fork ring. That part is true with the rest of the machined surfaces. If you grip the shifting fork ring then you can bore the bearing then true up the tapered clutch surface, and the outside where the belt runs without removing the unit from the lathe thus makeing all surfaces concentric. The result will be a very smooth runing clutch/pulley. Chucking from the inside runs agreat risk of breaking the pulley.

Harness shops had this type of press. They use a set of wood moulds to form wet leather. the press pushes them together, then the halves lock together untill the leather dries and and sets.

My 25 cost me $175 worth of Buckhorn beer. 18 years ago that nearly filled a pickup bed had to go to 3 stores to fill the amount. First 25# shipped 1/1/1908 I think.

Leave the die block where it is for now. rebuild the hammer put it together and use it. keep soaking it and with use most of the die block key will free up from the pounding. for really stuborn ones I weld a piece of high quality threade rod to the thick end of the key put a pipe over that ith alarge washer then a nut screw the nut on as tight as you can then use the hammer for a few days keep checking the nut and tighten as you can. It has never failed me

Thats just a little slower than LG said to run them but it will be fine . If your clutch is right you should have any speed you want from 0 to 300. I use 2 horse on 50# hammer but if its a good 1 1/2 it will run it fine at faster speeds but may not have quite as much control at lower speeds. I use a brake and if you want good hard single blows you need plenty of power in the motor. An old repulsion/induction motor a 1 hp will do it they have so much more torque. Think 'bout it

Several people I have repaired hammers for have tried this. 2 extra pulleys a shaft 2 bearings more belts all adds up to almost as much as the right speed motor, unless you can get all that stuff cheap. On the other side of this story once you get it built it works just fine.