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I Forge Iron

peacock

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Everything posted by peacock

  1. Now a thought on rodded tools. Rod handles are my choice for power hammer work. Cliffton Ralph taught me that the handle only needs to strong enough to hold the tool. Most tools will be best with 1/4 or 5/16 round mild steel. Leave at least 5 or 6 inches between the tool and handle grip this will let the handle flex and shield your hand. Form a grip for your hand that will help you align the tool. Try to avoid a design that will allow your fingers to pass thru so your fingers will not be broken in the event the tool twist or kicks out. Another advantage with small rods is you can bend them with ease to help you hold the tool at a 90 degree or other angle and still keep your arms and hands in front of you(much better control). Afterward you can striaghten them out.
  2. You ask about top tools. If you are striking these with a hand hammer I think wood is better. the trick is do not wedge or otherwise make these wood handles tight in the tool. Leave an inch or so of handle stick out of the tool drill a small hole thru it for a small cross pin to keep the tool on the handle. This will allow the tool to settle into the work with out trasfering the shock to the handle or your hand. Also the wood handles will not break like they do when tight. Years ago I could not keep the handles on my set hammers and flatters from breaking. Tom Clark told me about leaving them loose and I have not broken a handle on a top tool since.
  3. Don You ask how I would do it. Best way for me would be to cut it into pieces 1/2 the lenght I need then draw it to the needed size with my 40 # bradley power hammer. I live in a rural area and I often need stock I don't have in stock. The nearest steel supply is over 1 hour away. Every week I will make the stock I need from shafting I have saved from other projects. This will allow you to make the exact size stock with out loss from a saw kerf.
  4. Banjoe I have specs on it if it is a cushioned helve. Factory said 3 hp 400 blows per minute. patrick is right on about the wood, hard maple is the only thing I have had success with, anything else is a waste of time if you use the hammer much. dies are 2x5x1 1/4inch not including the male dovetail it weighs about 2100lb price is good. if you don,t want it. let me know.
  5. Tom was a great friend and mentor. from this day forth there will be a huge hole in the blacksmith world. Thelma and I thank you all for all your prayers and good thoughts. Thelma has requested no calls so she may have time to get herself togather. We will keep you posted on future plans for his memorial. It may not be till spring. thanks again Phil Cox
  6. BRADLEYS ARE GREAT HAMMERS. If it is a cushioned helve it will weigh10,200 lbs and will need 10 horsepower 900 rmp motor pretty big for three phase. If it is a upright helve (guided ram) it weighs 7,800 lbs 7.5 horsepowr at 900 rmp The upright strap weight is 6,800 lbs 7.5 hp. I have three bradleys 2 40# cushioned helve and 1 125# uprigt helve. great control, and other than lube little no maint. They do take up alot of floor space 106 in. x 54 in. for the 200 cushioned helve & 42x 78 for 200# uprights. I have other specs. & foundation plans on most bradleys. I'll be glad to share,
  7. most all of the above advise is pretty good but one thing that has not been addressed is the fact that the inside of the forge may too large without the kaowool this type burner depends on back pressure to burn right. most of these will not stay lit outside the forge. if you have done all this other stuff allready you might wait till you get the koawool installed. if you just cann't wait reduce the volume of the forge with some bricks and/or clay dirt and close up the doors this will increase back pressure and may help your burner. also in pics it looks like your orrifce may be too deep in the reducer. move it as close as you can to the outside and you should increase your air speed thru the tube. hope it helps
  8. I have seveal hammers for sale 3 25 # LGs and some much larger ones. 25 LG may be the best choice. I am in Missouri e-mail peacock@dishmail.net
  9. peacock

    Brass

    There are several alloys of brass. As a rule only navel brass SAE#73 and forging brass SAE#88 are recomended for forging. # 88 is copper 58 to 61 % lead 1.5 to2.5 % iron max. .30 other elements .50 % the remainder is zinc. Other types of brass are cast and will not generally forge. The brass you have is most likely not meant to be forged. All the smiths that I know use silcon bronze when they need a copper alloy in their work. Sorry but your brass may not be what you want I hope this helps.
  10. I'll be there friday thru sunday. My first time at quad states. I will be demoing power hammers. Supposed to be interactive so if you have any Ideas please reply and I'll try to come up with something. No promises. Take it easy on me
  11. Is this belt flat or round, also what size. If it is flat you can cut some out and lace it back together with leather lace. If it is round it can be cut and put bact together with with wire staple. If the belt is in good condition, not too loose you may just need some belt dressing. The easiest is spray on can get it at most auto parts stores. If you need to replace the belt I have sides of the proper kind of leather and the lace leather. If you are interested I may be able to help you. You will need alum tan leather as all other kinds have too much stretch.
  12. I use lots of these type tools & have had the same problem. It is commonly caused by the constsnt flexing of top dye as it trys to adjust to the constantly changing stock thickness. my best fix is to weld and grind a good radius on top of the top dye(spring dye). that way as the top hammer dye strikes it it will not flex the handle as much. also when you repair a broken spring tool try welding it by running the weld beads lengthwise ( 90 degrees to the crack) start in the center make bead at least 2 or 3 times as long as the width of the stock then place shorter beads on each side till you have a diamond shaped patch over the break. this will keep the stress line from running across the spring handle. pre and post heat may help but you may lose the temper in your spring die. Another thing you may want to do is keep a master of what the tool is used to make (acorn, ball or whatever) that way when you need to weld the spring you can clamp the two halves togather with the master in the deprssion and your dies will be perfectly aligned.
  13. what size is this hammer? I have 2 40 lb cushion helve and 1 125 upright have worked a few others I have specs on most cushion helve hammers also foundation plans clear hard maple is the type of wood. I have spes on hp required and blows per minute.
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