peacock

I plan on putting both 25s together. If you want to use old style arms on you hammer you will need toalso use tension adjusting knuckles andthreaded tee toggle link. you can use the much cheaper new style pitman with some modifications, works great is alot cheaper.

The clutch is in the hands of the delivery person.

Make your new die to fit the dovetail inthe ram. Forget about all that other junk, the hot metal will be all the cushion you will need.

I think I can make that part. Forge a blank then machine. What does it measure over all?

Buy 9 tomorrow morning you will have a new clutch assembly ready to go with Mathew on sat. All I have left to do is put the lining on the spider.

As far as I know you have to do the mods yourself If you don't want to do it ship me you gas saver and I will do it for a small fee. It is real simple make a mount for the gas saver, the pilot light is pipe thread into the gas saver just unscrew it add a street el a short piece of pipe and an elbow screw the pilot back into that. On the bottom of the base make a foot pedal so when you step on it it pushes a rod up to lift the lever on the gas saver, hang the torch on the hook, light the pilot, light the torch, hang the torch back on the hook go to work.

I bought 2 25 # LG Sat. For $ 300 each however they were missing a part or two. i have paid $1000 for rebuildable LG hammers, But remember the company does offer many new parts.

I think a scraper did it to get it so it would not be docked for over size. You can see where they scored it with the edge of an angle grinder soit would snap off I have done the same thing many times to large cast pieces but never to a power hammer. The pins are all standard size and not worn out If any one has a good frame and no parts we need to get together. I of us needs to buy the other one out.

I think the 50 could be fixed, but it would be a lot of work. I doubt that anyone would be willing to buy a hammer that the frame has been broken, and pay enough money to justify the fix. All of the operating parts are in good shape. I think my best bet is to recondition all the parts and sell them as people need them. I am thinking about useing the lower half as the anvil and base for a home built air hammer build I have had on my mind for a while.

heres the pics from the sale

Hey don't feel like I,m stoppin on you. I just got some more hammers to rebuild and I really like to keep up on what might be out there that we are can use. Sid and I are good friends And we talk some I was ordering some parts and asked him, he said he may have not made it clear when he was talking about the 2 piece bolt on dies. Keep posting we all have missed things in these post. Not a problem unless it don't get cleared up.

Went to a blacksmith sale today. I came home with2 25# 1 50# and 1 100# little giants today all for less than scrap price. Both 25s are missing some parts ( ram guide and shifting fork). The 50 is and old style that some one cut the frame in two about 2 inches above the die, The 100 is complete but taken apart. Pics to follow tomorrow. Anvils were well under $2.00 a pound one peter wright 150# trenton !70 # and a mouse hole 272 # 6 0r 8 post vises around $1.00 a pound. Lots of other tools all worth the money.

Sam is right you will have to build or have someone build one. thats the problem with the transition models not too many made so parts are not around. I had to make one. not easy but can be done.

I just got off the phone with Sid at Little Giant.There are NO bolt on sow blocks he has sow blocks for 25, 50, and 100 #, but they are standard sow blocks that must have the frame machined with a new dovw tail if ithe old one is broken off.

He has a bolt on sow block? I stand corrected, sorry.

It's a standard Gas Saver with a little rework. Make a mount for the torch above the pilot light rig the shut off lever to work with you foot.

Does it really make any difference? If we spent as much effort useing them and teaching others to use them as has been spent on this we would be better off.

If you need to loosen a rivet a little put the head or upset end in a hole that fits pretty good. Get a punch about the size of the shank or a little smaller set it on the rivet centered over the shaft of the rivet smack it hard with a hammer, it will be looser.

No bolt on sow block at Little Giant I think you are thinking of the 2 piece dies put a base in the dove tail bolt a face to it. The above post with dowels and bolts are about as good as you can do. If you can machine the top flat and build a plate to raise the the amount you take off. If you can get the bolts and dowels 90 degrees to the break and not the top it will be much better. I drill 1/64 under then ream to size. Be carfull about too much interference fit on the dowels I split 1 wide open once when I froze pins and heated frame, pins .003 over when the frame cooled and pins warmed up it split like a piece of hickory fire wood. I now use pins the same size as the hole to .001 over. I do the holes in the broken part in the mill so I can get the angle I want. Then I super glue the borken part to the frame to transfer the holes. Pop it off and do the reaming and tapping. I also leave the counter bores a little shallow the dress the tops level so the sow block keeps them from backing out. Don't put too many holes in it as it will weaken the frame 2 bolts and 2 pins is plenty on a 50. Grade 8 bolts.

Yes that is a cog belt pulley. It does work very well. Contact area is about 9.4 square inches for cogged 11.5 for 2 A belts not really that much difference. If you get oil on he pully I think the cogged belt handles it better.

Where I worked before retirement we had a square tube rack that we set plywood panels on and clamped them up like a wall. we could ajdust them fom straight up to about 15 degrees back. Had a 6 inch shelf at the bottom. we would make a CAD drawing print it on a transperancy then project that on the ply wood adjust the size by moving closer or farther away. Then the guys would draw the lines on the ply wood. As we made different parts we could lean them up or clamp them on and tack weld it. It al stored in very little space against the wall when not in use. Next time we needed it fresh coat of white paint made it new. A little labor intense but in a prison you have alot of cheap labor.

I would need better pics before I could offer a fix. More important is what caused the thing to break off in the first place. From what I can see the break appears clean and new not an old crack just now coming apart. Do not panic do not grind or other wise mess with this broken part till you find out why it broke. I think an improper key my have caused the sow block to raise up off the floor of the dove tail then as you hammered it would drive the sow block down forcing the frame out and broke it off. this needs to be dealt with before any fix will work.

I had a good friend that gave me chunks of tool steel, Tongs, hammers, even an brand new anvil with my name cast in the side of it. But by far the most important thing he gave me was the gift of knowlege not only from himsefl but gave me the chance to work with and learn from some of the greatest smiths and people on the earth. I miss my friend every day since he has passed so in his honor I try to pass on all of the things he helped me learn. Rest in peace Tom Clark.

When I was training standardberd horses as a hobby I was very successful. I yeilded to pressure from others who wanted me to go pro. It was at that point I started making decisions based on money instead of what was best for the horse. My success and pleasure decreased. I willnot turn a hobby into a business again. Do I charge for things I forge, of course I do, but my living will not be affected ever again by someone's desire to get a real deal or make a large profit on an item I make. I strive to do what I do the very best I can I charge what I think it's worth. If the customer likes what I do and wants to pay for my work thats great if not so be it. I am like John at Ironkiss I strive to rebuild the best mechanicl power hammers around. Are mine the best? Untill I have ran every hammer rebuilt by everyone I can't answer, but I keep trying to make it so. I'm sastisfied with my work, my hobby,and look forward to going to my shop every morning even though I am retired.

I answered your question , but I agree with the two post above.When I build a 25LG I prefer to use coged belts. old stye use 19LG100. That will have a pitch diameter of 2.268 . They are available In 1 tooth increments to 22 tooth then in 2 tooth jumps. If someone insists on V belts I recomend 11/2 hp 2 a belts. I also have shipped several with a 3 inch wide flat belts. Flat gives lots more surface area with low belt tension