peacock

You can put your treadle return spring anywhere you want, but make sure when the motor is running but the hammer is not striking the clutch collar is not tight on either side of the pulley groove ( it should rattle) if the spring pulls it tight you will wear out the shifting collar groove. The spring on the treadle allowed all the slack in the jionts to let the collar center it's self in the groove. The spring was adjusted so it would coil bind before putting pressure on the shifting collar. Think 'bout it

There is a grease zirk missing on the end of the main shaft. with out it you cannot grease the clutch bearing. if it is dry you may have the condition you describe. Put a zirk in the end of the shaft grease it turn the power on let it turn a minute to spread the grease then try it.

I fix those by wraping it with leather. skive the ends for a smooth lap joint. contact cement it then put a row of screws thru the lap. Make sure to wrap i the correct direction so the belt will be laying the edge down not trying to peal it up. They last for years.

You may want to think about running a steel ram on a steel guide that is not the best bearing combination. the steel on cast works great. If I were to fab it up I would design some replaceable bearing bronze wear strips in the face of the guide.

I know how to fix it but the process is a lot more typing than I want to do. if you want to talk to me send me a PM. The repair involves welding and renforceing with large angle iron.

my mandrel is made out of osage orange, hard maple will work well also mine has a 5 degree taper. I can bump it out with a hammer real easy. I like wood over metal as it does not wick the heat out of the babbit, it cheaper, and much lighter to handle. sand it very smooth and wax it with paste wax then buff it good. I have poured 30 or 40 clutches with it.

Yes the toggle links should have bushings in both ends. becareful if you remove anything from the shaft they are mounted with taper keys and if you press them the wrong way you will crack the hub of the clutch spider and/or the crank plate, that would cost you hundreds of dollar to replace. There are thing about these hammer that are not so obvious and if you don't know what you are doing you can really screw things up. Most machine shops don't understand power hammers and mess up a lot of parts quick. Get all the viedos you can, take a class or hire someone that knows what they are doing to help you with a rebuild It will be money well spent in the long run.

That is a new style . it came out of the factory gray not green the top die key is tapered 2 ways but the lower die only tapered end to end. You will need a new spring for sure. and most likely new toggle link pins a the very least. the clutch will have bronze bushing instead of babbit. the toggle links have bronze bushing as well. you can get over sized pins from Sid and ream not drill the arms if the holes are worn. That should get you started.

clean it with air. take the lines off the cylinder, open the valve and blow it out cycle the valve the other way and blow that set of passages out. do all this with the oiler off of course. put er back together should be good to go.

I don't have a picture of a 30# but I do have a few bradlys. The sow block is a square block of cast iron of steel with a male dovetail on the bottom crosswise to the helve the top dovetail runs with the helve. the dovetails do not have taper lenghwise and the die does not either. They use a matching taper wedge on each side of the die. Let me know if you need more info.

If you have a place that turns brake rotors and drums get the iron chips from them fill it up add a litter water and it will rust into a solid mass.

Never weld the last hole shut in a closed container. BOOM!

cut a hole near the top to pour the sand in after all the welding is done. If you weld a threaded bung in the hole you can screw a plug in it after it's filled

On larger hammers say 50 lb and up you must have small long handles so they can flex, just large enough to hold up the weight of the fuller. It also needs to be dead soft. I use 1/4 inch hot rolled. With it easy to bend you can bend it 90 degrees if you need to fuller the stock lengthwise, just slap it over the avnil. On my smaller hammers I ofen use old plillips screwdrivers. Don't make handles with loops or hole that your fingers can get in, if it kicks over it will break your fingers.

If I were fixing this hammer my first step would be to remachine the ram to make sure it is true and straight. Then I would weld up the new guide with extra stock for machining. I would bolt this to the frame and heat it to a dull red with a rosebud then tighten the bolts carefully then let it cool completely. Then I would remove it and machine to fit the ram. The ram and frame are not likely to be true. if you machine a new guide without addressing these problems first you could break your frame when you bolt a new straight guide to it or warp the new guide. causeing the ram to bind. By heating the weldment and bolting it to the frame it will seat it's self to the frame.

Bar and chain oil is fine on the ways, pins and babbit bearings. On the clutch bearing and pittman use gun grease. on the clutch lining surface I use ATF. When the clutch gets gummed up I spray it good with WD40 (it's mostly solvent) to cut the old lube so it will run out then relube with the ATF. If you are getting grease in the clutch you are either over greaseing it or the clutch bearing is worn out and needs repoured. I use a pistol grip grease gun for the clutch bearing go easy and when you feel resistance on the lever stop greasing as the breaing is full anymore will just go past the bearing and get on the frictuon surface.

fuller top and bottom very near the edge with a small fuller then draw the taper behind that. the ridge left near the edge can then be drawn out or fullered in off. If this is hard for you try letting the edge hang over the far side of the anvil and use hard half faced blows to form the ridge at the edge then proceede as before.

What do you consider a "small" foot print? My 16 lb Depew is 14 wide 26 long 42 tall. it runs a 500bpm and makes metal flow. For smaller I haver a 15lb electric jack hammer. Make a mount and it would fit in a 7 inch circle.

I am the guy who said no system is quicker than a good dove tail and key and I have proved it many times. I have competed against air wenches and all. Most of the time the guy wil say wait wait I have to get my wrench. My hammer is always there. Speed in changing dies is really not an issue for most of us. the whole bolt on die thing comes from what you can make yourself, cheap. I have a shaper and a mill dovetails for me, if you have a drill and a welder go for it that is best for you. If you change dies several times a day you will start to wear the threads out after a while. I have worn out die keys, easy to forge a new key. Stripped or worn out threads are a little more trouble. My 4 cents.

I have a Hendy 12 inch tool room shaper. They are very good shapers, they are loaded with nice features. I'll try to answer any questions you have.

To get the most use of your hammer you need both flat and drawing dies. Without both it is like using only one face of one hammer on the exact same spot on the anvil and tring to do a variety of work.

Go to the dollar store and buy several cans of the cheap spray on oven cleaner. spary it down good let it set for an hour hose it off. do it all over again till you get it like you want it. I've rebuilt a bunch of hammers this the best method I have found for the job.

take a piece of paper between the dies and hit it as easy as you can and see if you get a full even print of the die on the paper. if one side or corner cuts thru or one side or corner don't touch at all you most likely have a dove tail problem either top or bottom. Most times it will be the bottom as the frame is cast iron, ram is cast steel. It is possible the ram guides are bad.

forge a section to where it starts showing curve then swap ends & and reforge that section it should straighten out.

make a new shaft and make it longer so you can mount the pulley and clutch outside the frame at the back. That will make it much eaiser to install and service the clutch and you don't have to take the shaft out to change the belt. use the new shaft to pour the bearings before you assemble the fly wheel