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I Forge Iron

yesteryearforge

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Everything posted by yesteryearforge

  1. steel rack in 10 ft sections , on the floor where i dont usually walk / actually i dont have much of a turnover in metal stock because im always in the house on this @#$%%$# computer Mike
  2. Jeremiah Are these to be totally blacksmithed as in rivetted and collared or can you use an electric welder ? Are they just stabbed in the ground ? Whats the trellis for ( any particular kind of plants ) or are they just to set the look for the windows ? Are you using solid metal or rectangular or square tubing ? All of this and more have a bearing on the price. Its nice to see that they take VISA and MASTERCARD I wonder if I can pay for my funeral with a credit card Mike
  3. Jeremiah I have found that the brass ( takes ) at a certain temp Too hot and it wont take too cold and it wont take So i start brushing when i think its a tad too hot and brush untill all of a sudden it just takes the brass from the brush and keep brushing untill its to cold to take any more. You can allmost make it look like it has been bronzed with a little practice. Different brass brushes act differently my favorite is a brass brush from wallmart for cleaning your bbq grill with . I have one from a bowling alley that is used to clean your bowling shoes with that puts an entirely different color of brass finish on than the others. Hope this helps its a lot easier to show than to explain. Mike
  4. If scarfed correctly when you come out of the fire at welding heat , just touch them together and the thin part of the scarf should stick / drop your tongs and hammer weld them together. After it is welded you can continue forging the weld area if it is a good weld.
  5. Roger Welcome you should be right at home here , lots of smiths from OZ on here We all are learning everyday also / perhaps you can further our education as well Mike
  6. yesteryearforge

    P5210068

    Primtechsmith about to go insane trying to manage 100 ft of rope, about 85 ft wound up in the basket
  7. yesteryearforge

    P5210057

    primtechsmith weaving the basket
  8. yesteryearforge

    P5210065

    Primtechsmith weaving the pawpaw memorial basket
  9. yesteryearforge

    P5220190

    air hammer right side
  10. yesteryearforge

    P5220189

    air hammer left side
  11. probally used to sharpen sissors for barbers and knives for butchering etc. by a traveling sharpenning person
  12. Paul , Heather , Woody our prayers are with you also Annalise Good luck and a quick recovery prayed for here Mike
  13. Ron send me your address thats good for UPS ( no po box ) and the size you are after and ill send you a piece of 1/2 plate. These things can take a pretty good pounding if you get excited and the thicker the bottom plate the better off you are. Mike
  14. Cooter then you may want to consider AR abraision resistant plate. its hard to get rid of the hardness of that totally. you can probally just quench it right off of the plasma and it would be plenty tough. You can call me most anything you want but never ever call me an artist again :)
  15. Cooter forged would be much stronger tan cut out with a plasma. kinda like the difference between a good forged garden rake and one at the local discount store theres no comparison
  16. Joe K yes I ordered it from shady grove and its the north german pattern # 9
  17. we have some copper heatsinks that we fabricated with water jackets running thru them / cold water is circulated thru the heatsink and keeps it from ever getting too hot.
  18. Ive got vaughn brooks,nimba,mousehole,peter wright,kohlswa,hey budden,arm & hammer,fisher,jhm, trenton from 25lbs to 560 lb and a big refflinghaus on the way.( four month delivery ) there is not a lot of difference between any of them except the fishers. id take a new cast tool steel anvil over any of them anyday but thats a matter of preference. i like the 560lb vaughn brooks , the 450lb nimba , the 260lb JHM , the 209lb kohlswa all cast tool steel anvils the best but havent gotten the refflinghaus yet. I would suggest that you purchase the largest anvil that you can afford no matter what brand that you choose. You can do small work on a large anvil but its hard to do big work on a small anvil, in fact doing to large of work on too small of an anvil is the main reason that its hard to find a 100lb to a 150lb anvil in decent shape. that just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions. Your'e likely to get more opinions on anvil size , style , name brands than any other question that you could ask. Good luck on your quest Mike Tanner
  19. ill give you 10 for it and pay the shipping
  20. i think you have entirely too much time on your hands
  21. see you at LTs place / dont want to miss this one / nice shop , nice demos , it dont get any better than this
  22. we tack weld all the time by just closing our eyes ( you usually only get your timing off once ) the really difficult part is getting your timing in sinc with the person tack welding.
  23. ive never seen a forged kohlswa Seen a lot of cast kohlswa ( cast tool steel ) and every one I have seen are exceptional anvils
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