dagr8tim

Thanks for the info. It looks like it’s 950 - 1450 F. I doubt my cheap little propane torch torch got up to that temp.

My understanding (from watching videos of them being cut in half) is that it is basically 2 stainless steel cups that nest and are attached at the top lip and have a vacuum drawn in the space between.

Good thing I'm heat bluing a coffee cup. But I think I may have misread and posted this in the wrong section.

Yes, this is an odd one. But I'm sure somebody here knows the answer. I've got a stainless steel knock off Yeti tumbler (Walmart Brand). Awhile back, I used an electrochemical method to destress an area after I had applied a decal as a mask. Today I got wondering if I could hit it with a propane torch and blue the rest of the tumbler to give it a worn sorta rusty/corroded look. Things went well, until I brought it in and washed it in the sink before drinking out of it. Alot of the straw to blue that color change I was going for washed off with a simple dish sponge with little plastic nubs. Is it possible to get the effect I'm after while keeping the tumbler food safe? I'm only doing the outside, and not the inside of the tumbler. Or is it just the way of things that the discoloring will scrub off over time? I know that it's a thin layer of oxide.

Ebay as Father's Day gifts. There's a youtuber who made a limited run of steel and brass reproductions, but I wasn't willing to pay the premium. My wife picked them up on ebay for around $30 for both with shipping. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with them. The Ford wrench has a tight spot about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way to full open on the jaws. I'm hoping I can clean that up and resolve it. A cursory glance of the teeth and the thumb wheel don't show any damage. I'll probably do some file work on the Ford wrench to clean up some casting flash and work on some dents in the lower jaw and mushrooming of the sides of the lower jaw. After that, a nice soak in evaporust. I'm on the fence about cold blueing it or finding a gunsmith to hot blue the wrench. If it's functional, I'll use it for something. If not, it'll be a wall hanger. The smaller one opens and closes as smooth as glass. It just has some mushrooming around the hammer head, the jaws and dent on the metal ring just above the wood where somebody was hammering on it. I'll clean it up as best I can and if I can get it apart, evaporust and refinish the handle. Otherwise clean it up and leave it alone. Either way, the little one will probably end up in my desk at home or on my desk at my office. I hadn't thought about twisting wrenches until now. I may troll ebay for some wrenches that are functional, but poor condition for that.

While not strictly blacksmithing, it will need some blacksmithing work. I picked it up at an auction yesterday for $50. It's missing a tine, and I'm hoping I can have one made that looks similar enough to pass.

Not strictly related to blacksmithing, but I’ve started cleaning out my wife’s grandfathers shop who was a small engine mechanic. I’m going back before the end of the month.

Looks like part of one of these. [D-ring receiver hitch]

Washing & Baking soda are the same thing (nearly). Sodium Carbonate vs Sodium Bi Carbonate. You can put baking soda in a shallow pan in the oven on 250 - 300 for about 45 minutes (stirring every 10 minutes or so) to drive off the moisture. This will convert Baking to Washing Soda. I agree about neutralizing the soda.

TSA = Security Theater.

Could you use say a 220 tombstone welder as your power supply for something like that?

Maybe we should start a thread in the misc area to talk about Jeeps and not clutter up this thread.

I've got a 75 CJ5 that I spent years trying to get a title for before I cut it up. I've still got the axles, and drive train. I've considered cooking up a small tube frame and making my vision of a side by side.

Why would that be preferred over say drilling a hole, tapping it, and using a set screw with lock tight?