Ridgewayforge

If you slightly recessed the hole in the stump to match the diameter of the main body of the hot cut you might be able to add a lot of stability to the hot cut. Otherwise, well done!

Not bad at all! I like the straight bar, but are you going to punch the holes?

It looks good, for a forge like that, in my area they go for 1-200 USD. Depending on where you are (you might consider putting your location in your profile), the price may be higher or lower. Remember, the cheapest and most easily accessible forge is a hole in the ground with a pipe sticking into it. Don't think becuase it was mass-produced that it is 'right'.

Yeah, bad days happen. If we're frustrated, tired, etc, we can transfer that to our work. Sometimes its best to go hit a punching bag before we hammer out steel, or to take a long walk to calm the mind.

L:ooks like a wright. How's rebound on that thing? That's an awfully large top plate that someone welded on.

As to HC vs low carbon steels, cutting them should be a possibility. In my experience, which has been limited to spring stock and 10XX carbons steel as well as A36 and (perhaps) a little mild from scrap, is that the spring steels and the high carbon cut like they forge: cutting HC is marginally tougher while hot, althought the better the profile of the cutting tool (hardie), the better it is.

Could you speak a little more about how the tree is attached to the frame?

Thanks so much! A little vise like that shouldn't be too hard, right?

Could you post dimensions? Somehow I've now got this crazy notion of trying to make one over winter break!

Yes it can work! And, please document its workableness. Sometimes we get so caught up with the "proper" and "most efficient" way of doing things that we forget that elbow grease is the best worker in the world. If its hard, you'll love it all that much more!

There is plenty of life left in that anvil. Use it before you lose it!

Is the hammer in the picture the hammer you used? Realize that the rebound will vary by what hammer you use. It is legitimate.

Could be a vulcan- if it were fisher it would have its name cast proud in it.

For 30? Jump on that! That's a steal!

Looks like the name is William Foster! Great Find! looks like with the horn it would have been 124 pounds. Great score! Clean her up by hammer hot metal!

I use a 75 lber for all of my work. Use it, don't abuse it and you'll do fine. 75 is right for a traveling shop.

I wouldn't use it as it, the weight will be unbalanced. For 15 dollars, you can teach yourself many new things, through mistakes, even!

I do believe they are not saying to run a long bolt from the hole to the stand and connect the two: you just need a bolt to hang loose. Then, when it comes time to use the hole, remove bolt and replace when done. I use a length of chain wrapped around the waist and then a link is slipped over the horn; it quiets her down a lot!

I forge outside under merely a tin roof. The wind comes up, but a good cap that comes over the ears is good. Usually by lunch time I'm in just a T shirt and pants, unless it is truly bone chilling. Granted, weather here only ever dips into the singles, nothing below 0.

Well worn? That's not true. She looks a little more than gently used. You'll be surprised at how epically we can mess things up if we try to "fix" things to fit to the standards they were when they were made. She'll last you 200+ years easy without more than a gentle sanding and maybe a little filing on the edges.

Good point, I wasn't specific enough. My appologies! A small drawknife, perhaps a 4-6 inch wide blade, for shaving down small logs (i.e. 4"diameter). My skill level is zilch for knifemaking, although I do frequently use springs for punches, chisels, etc, so I know how to work the material, and I have read the blueprint on this topic, but other than that, i'm more or less clueless; I want to do this project to increase my skillset as well as keeping my projects fresh.

Hi all! This weekend, I am hoping to get a little forge time in, and I am looking to making a simple draw knife. I will be using some old spring, as its not intended to be anything fancy, just a workable tool. My question is whether there would be any benefit of using either 1/2" round coil spring or some leaf spring. Thanks, Ridgewayforge

The hook has to be offset becuase the cabinet is very deep, but the clothes bar is only about a foot in. So, in order to hang the whole cloth, I need a long bar with the hook offset.

Thanks for the help! For materials, I was gong to clear coat it. Will that protect the material sufficiently? The cloth will not site directly on the metal; it will have a cloth or plastic sleave to give it traction.

I have been requested to make a hanger for a special cloth for my church, and the hanger needs to be longer on one end, so it fits in the closet. The fabric will be on the longer part, and the hook will be offset. My Question is, how can I counter balance this so as to keep it from hanging askew? Thanks, Ridgewayforge