David Einhorn

Welcome to the forum. ;-)

Does this mean that the Anderson Blacksmith Shop is being replaced by the Public Armoury?

I would greatly appreciate it if anyone who has letters home from their relatives who served as blacksmiths during the American War Between the States would be willing to share a copy of their letters with me and potentially the rest of the world. Ideally it would be wonderful to collect letters home from your hardworking blacksmithing relatives, and help preserve their role and contribution to our country's history. Thank you in advance for your kind assistance, Dave Einhorn

I have used scrap wood, 2 by 6s are shown in the photograph. You can also use 2x4s or just about anything else you can scavenge. To protect from ground insects you can either use a layer or two of treated lumber, and/or treat the bottom with a range of chemicals from the local big box lumber-flower store. I find these stands to be nice and light and very stable. The top layer is cut out so that the anvil sits within the cutout.

Unfortunately if a smith wants to retain credit for a photograph, drawing or movie then a watermark or label within the image appears to be necessary. Personally I don't tend to mind the sharing of images that I produce, but I now place labels within the image so that pictures and other stuff is copied to other web pages, I still get the credit for creating it. Also unfortunately those labels within the images probably make the images less desirable to look at, and less likely to be copied to other web sites, but such is life.

Ideally I would suggest taking a class or two and trying other peoples' forges to find out what you like and don't like about various types of forges and features. Many years ago I made the mistake of purchasing a stick welder before taking a class. That was a big mistake because I found out how a decent welder should work, and that box couldn't do a decent weld. That said, it looks to be a decent solid forge from what can be seen in the photographs. If you have the money it is a good purchase. I doubt you will find a decent forge for $200 but anything is possible.

Welcome to the forum.

If I understand correctly you are trying to rivet .014"/ 28 gauge and .065"/16 gauge sheets using rivets that are 1.25" long and 1/8" diameter. --- The rivets are much too long and too thick for what you are trying to rivet. What you need is to get much shorter, much smaller diameter, and softer rivets, and tooling that are intended for the application that you are using. Trying to use rivets that are too long, too large a diameter, too hard and without the right tooling is defeating and frustrating yourself before you start. Be kind to yourself and reduce your frustration by using the right rivets so that we can enjoy hearing from your continuing progress over the years ahead. ;-) http://www.ullrich.c...lind_rivets.php http://national-stoc...120-00-222-3663

26) bowl of ice and a towel, until the person learns not to touch iron that is black-hot. 27) first aid kit 28) file, and sandpaper to remove sharp edges and burrs, so that you don't need the first aid kit so often. 29) a book with pre-measured beginner projects 30) a course or two at your local blacksmith group or school

The purpose of using water is simply to limit the area of the coal/coke fire. With that in mind, you only sprinkle water **outside** of the area of the firepot, and **never** pour water on the firepot especially a cast iron firepot. When you are ready to douse the fire at the end of the day, shovel the coal away from the firepot either to the outskirts of your forge table where there is no cast iron, or shovel the coal into a steel bucket.... then douse the coal with water. Let the firepot cool slowly exposed to the air. Ideally when you are finished for the day shovel the wet coal into a bucket and clean the forge, because the liquid seeping through the coal tends to be corrosive and destructive to metal.

You have at least two methods of making a rose without welding: - A "Round Rose": basically a round disc that is dimpled and slightly domed mounted on a stem and a - one piece rose that is rolled up, sometimes referred to as a "Russian Rose": basically you take a round stock, flatten about 10 to 12 inches at one end, nick some notches about one inch apart, then roll up the flattened length starting at where the flattened part meets the round stock, then adjust the pettles with pointed pliers. Maybe someone could provide more detailed steps in making a rolled up "Russian Rose".

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For its age it appears to be in pretty good condition. My main avil has a bit of a sway. I work around the bad spots and use the sway for straightening. I see no problem using it as is.

Very nice thank you for sharing.

A very nice and useful vise, and at a good price.

Very nice!

Very nice, thank you for sharing. Keep up the good work.

Photos would help understand your situation. Is there a good tight fit between the guard and the blade? What solder are your using? What type of steel? What metal for the guard? What are you using as a heat source? How and how well did you clean the mating surfaces?

I'm sure that we are all glad that you stuck with it and found the right opportunity. I don't believe that any of us are against newbies, its just that after being burned enough times (and hear about law suits) most folks get a bit reluctant. After all, if every time someone wearing a bright green hat came up to you and punched you, my bet is that after a while you would be reluctant to let someone wearing a bright green hat get too close. If a higher percentage of young men had your fine character, not only would smiths be less reluctant, but the world would be a much better place. P.S. : If you indicate your approximate location, that is country, and section of a state, you might get invitations to blacksmithing meetings and even eventually to people's shops.

Welcome to the forum, from Pennsylvania.

We all look forward to seeing your progress. Also, if you glue blocks on the inside at each end, you could then have supports to place a removable tray.

I use a 10 gallon aluminum cook pot that I found at the local discount store. Big enough to quench stuff but small enough to flush out the RV antifreeze each spring.

Nice find! That extra length will allow you to polish the top whenever you wish, without worry because you can raise it a little to compensate for any bit that you grind off.

A cone is something that once I got used to using one, I can no longer imagine doing without. Unfortunately you live too far away to demonstrate rounding up rings and bands and enlarging and/or rounding curves that are too large to round up on the horn of an anvil. They are also good for making cone shaped objects such as nozels for the bellows that mate into the cone airway on a side-blast forge, and handy to make truncated cones for making jigs.

The answer depends on how many bricks you have and your intended usage and/or goal. If you have enough bricks then perhaps a brick table with a firepot in front of a side draft chimney is very nice. So the questions include: - how many bricks - inside or outside - how much space do you wish to allocated for the forge - do you plan on a chimney - what type of stuff do you plan on making - how permanent do you wish to make the forge - do you have or will you plan on installing a foundation under the forge - do you plan on making the whole forge from firebrick or just the tuyer