SReynolds

............one could always buy new steel and jump over/eliminate the exercise of heating, quenching, break-test, file testing, spark testing not to mention the conversation(s) "Rebar is junk". "No it's not" I guess it depends on time vs money scenario. Remember, not all the rebar is same. Thus I would wonder if you invest time to thoroughly test it, how much of your test method discoveries transfer to the "next batch" ??? I don't appreciate folks "dropping off" scrap to my door. They think I can use it. No....... They want to clean house and I'm the recipient.

There are a number of easy methods to attach a hardie hole to a rr track (anvil) section. You can buy a hardie hole ( yes, buy a hole) or use a section of square tubing. Weld either onto the end of your section of track. Or place a hole in the track but I imagine that would involve heating it and drifting it.

Somebody always has a better way. I have made them. And use them. But the smaller/taper shank with a shoulder resting on the face works real well. I have seen the video and have failed to see that his style cuts better than the (lets call it) old style. And advertising that a rounding hammer allows a better cut than a flat faced hammer ..............? It is fun to experiment, but when you discover a method you like, there is satisfaction in that. I worked in a shop yesterday with a couple others who have brought their own name brand Clark and yadda,yadda brand hammers with very short, square wooden handles, square face etc. I did the same thing with one I found lying there. A Sears Craftsman Cross-Pein 40 oz that appeared very well used. Long round handle and chipped face and pein. A real charmer. Incidentally; they have a hardie cutter with long, tapered shank. Fit very loose and has a wide shoulder that rests on the anvil face. Worked great!

Cal, Pay very close attention. You are offered very sound advise. Get some pizza and soda. Start reading. Then read more, till your eyes are sore. Then repeat another day. Thanks guys for taking time to reply. It's how I got started. Well....not exactly, but you know what I'm saying.

In the same boat, but (my) forged tools from spring are used to cut steel. The color is run to the cutting end (a straw range color or bronze. I can't tell difference in the 50° increments) but the tools dent when striking (cutting) mild steel. I guess deforming is better than breaking, eh? With wood tools, I suppose a sharp edge over time is preferred over dulling or cracking. Sure I can buy them factory made. But I'd like this technique on my resume.

The faster students like a break. The slower students like the faster ones out of the way. I use two students per forge/anvil. The One-on-One student seemingly cannot tolerate swinging a hammer for 8-1/2 hours. Not something someone normally would do, even myself. Well, One-on-One student is bombarded with projects and no break watching the other guy. So it's a long day and they normally are done after 7 hours time. I have them literally leave after lunch. Blisters are hell. Funny, cuz I have had students (two in fact) complain that they were not offered time to swing a hammer the entire 8-1/2 hours for the intro class. There is some theory involved and I demonstrate a number of tasks. Obviously, if you don't swing a hammer often for 8-1/2 hours, you ain't gonna do it. Period. Those two students have not returned for the other two classes in three years time which involves 8-1/2 hour hammer time. Offered that is.

I have four to a class. My class looks like a figure-eight car race and I don't, nor do students have issues. It's as if everything simply falls into order, all on its own. Do have some burns but it's rare. They like to pick up another student's nail from the floor. They don't have hammer control skills to cut and break-off with tongs or pliers. They cut it off and can't insert the nail into header cuz it be lying on floor. Somebody is always too helpful to assist in picking it up for them ! I tell them early-on to check tongs and stock near forge for heat by placing BACK of hand near it. Reason is obviously obvious. But they think it's a joke I'm telling. But in all honesty; I do tell them to burn some hair on back of a finger is far better than buring several locations on palm of hammer hand. I don't see what is so funny about that.

Right-O. Soon as I can.

I'm not a leg man but I know when I an offered a good deal. This no-name brand unit was given/donated to me with broken box. A welding project saver her. I probably will never use it as I collect Columbian Bench Vises. I simply couldn't tolerate to see here damaged. What makes it unique to me is the fact I see alot of these in shops and the screw threads are sharp. The screw threads on this are squared off. I can only surmise that most are badly worn-out and these are not........ Never attempted a repair such as this. I just knew the box cannot pull through when tightened and a section of 1.5 inch pipe was the same as the box O.D. I didn't receive the broken-off end of the box.

The best one is the straw on the floor, blacksmithing in the livery. There is a fight scene. I think it is one of the two episodes with John Dierkes. But I could be wrong. Some of the programs do show details of the livery/smithy. John Dierkes, if you recall, was the fellow who shot SHANE from the balcony at the end of the movie, in the movie SHANE. Or was Shane shot by Wilson-Jack Palance in the quick-draw scene? I guess I have work to do.............. I heard your nuthin' but a low-down Yankee liar.........

Perhaps some nepotism going on here's .......???? http://www.riflemanconnors.com/Blacksmith.htm

Leaf-Bolt. I think the hardware store sells them.......

Thomas; how would I know it is you ?

.....his forge is rusty. Probably looks like the one on eBay with a web of holes in the pan !

The can says Penetrant and Lubricant. It is made from nothing apparently as it is non marring, non toxic, non hazardous, non drying, non corrosive, non gumming,not harmful to plastics, paint, human life,, animals, the ozone, plant life, sea life, or anvils. Will not freeze. recommended FOR tools. How is it non harmful to animals if made from them........? It is flammable. So don't use on your anvil if it's near the forge fire. Move it across the shop when you spary this on !!!

Yes, I have used one. I had difficulty identifying it too, at first. The duct tape threw me off. That is classic isn't it. I had to completely revamp this guys forge at the village museum. It turns my stomach to see a historical display and then ......DUCT TAPE !!!!!! This is not a no. 1 in so much as it is referred to as the LANCASTER It is their bottom of the line blower. But they do have the Eureka so.........either way, the sales catalog says this is the low level blower. The 400 is tops and Mid-Way is the...........ahhhh.....well......midway between the two. Funny, in that I don't see the Lancaster blower mounted to anything in catalog. It is stand alone, but the Mid-Way and 400 both mount direct onto may forges they made.

I spray with Fluid Film. A spray on Lanolin. Is it oil? Is it grease? I dunno. It doesn't evaporate. Smells great too.

Oh...the hammer police! Yes. Yes. I have encountered them time to time. They are upset cuz you be hammering hot iron, and they be following the wife about and herding the kids at the fair grounds that day. Remember them quite well......

My students have difficulty understanding that. I demonstrate they work faster with a heavier hammer as it produces more work in less time, but they rather swing a small hammer for a longer period of time.

A smithing book I recently read stated that this individual likes to hold the hammer near the head. That is what she likes and that is what she does. Makes a living at the trade doing it that way. Lots of different opinions. I was informed by a professional smith I can't be taken seriously if I swing a 2-pound hammer. He didn't ask what I was making. If you smith in public; hecklers. They will take notice if you swing a hammer and there is four inches of handle not used. Employ a short handle or thick skin. It is fun to bet someone cash-money you can hit their hand if placed atop the anvil, even though you don't hold the hammer correctly. I personally use a 16 oz up to a 6 pound.

I Have a champion made form thin sheet steel. IT had no tuyere plate and so I wanted to build something to serve as both a tuyere and a plate to take the abuse of heat. It is a Champion model 145 with 140 Eureka blower. The tyuere plate is not bolted. I welded a collar at the bottom to fit into the hole in bottom of forge. It is sorta free floating, but it won't move about as the collar retains it in place. Afraid if I bolted it, it would warp and thus crack the casting underneath the pan. It is 1/4" thick plate.l I have come to find over time the small round holes are for garbage. A set of slots functions much better and I will cut slots in this between several holes. The 3/8" holes plug up quickly. Slots in my other forge do not. Another method is to fab a plate and use a heavy steel steam pipe cap and drill holes in that. But they are much higher and you have to raise the fire ball higher cuz that cap is right there in it.

Bolts. Yep. I use em. Sometimes I just enjoy forging something and retain the threads so folks will understand what it was I did. This is 1/2" bolt. 'Errrrrrr.....Leaf-Bolt. ASk your local hardware for some. Sure they sometimes are coated with some life threatening zink or some malignant coating but it's JUST A BOLT. Throw it in the fire and walk away if you are that type. I am more concerned about running out of ammo during a zombie apocalypse, but that's just me.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coke_(fuel) Pictures of near by coke oven at an extinct blast furnace.

could,............but I felt better welding a hardie shank to the bottom of said plate to help prevent undesirable movement. Or use a hold fast etc. But you don't want to "peen" the hole on the bottom tong when you are working from above, at orange heat.......I wouldn't think. Maybe if the nut has some surface area. I dunno........may not even be a factor. Never tried a nut.

I can picture that. but the bolster plate sets the rivet depth/protrusion. Okay, to be fair, the "Bolster Plate" is a fancy blacksmith term for a section of scrap steel of the proper thickness from which one drilled a hole into. LOL It ain't nuth'n really. I'll make you one of my patented "Bolster Plates" for rivet mak'n. Send 89.95 along with a self addressed stamped box to my e-mail address !