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I Forge Iron

ishoe

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Everything posted by ishoe

  1. Way overkill for bench grinders and buffers. A simple bench or pedestal mount would be much more practical. I don't believe you will be benefitted by putting that much effort into mounting equipment such as that permanently. As your tools and equipment inventory grows it would be beneficial to be able to easily rearrange things. However you forge, large anvils, post vise, power hammers, etc. should be placed with alot of thought and forsight.
  2. I believe every "old" anvil that I have ever seen had the horn blunted on it also. Somebody on here posted that they had punched a hole with the point on an anvil horn but outside of that I have never heard or seen anyone ever use a needle point horn for any forging procedures. The smith probably walked into the horn and in his pain and anger took his hammer and bashed the tip in. Troy
  3. FF, I guess I can't understand what is impedeing your view of the material if you were turning a loop either with the horn facing left or right, unless you were hammering under the horn, then it wouldn't matter which way the horn was facing. Actually even put some brief thought into it. I reckon getting over the top of a unattended hardy with their hammer shaft probably deserves to lose a digit or two. Troy
  4. Emerson Horseshoe supply in Bosier City, LA makes a London style anvil that weighs 200 pounds. Nearly identical to the Kohlswa anvil and American made! I have been using one for several years and it seems to be holding up fine. I have worked on the Rat Hole anvils and they are awesome. On my wish list for sure. They are available in 250 and 460 pounds. Troy
  5. Which way does your horn, bick, beak, point? Having spent most of the last 18 years at or near anvils and being instructed on their use by some pretty talented and skilled farriers and blacksmiths, I was taught that the horn points to the left (for right handed people). The reason I ask is because I have seen pictures and videoes of several apparently right handed people working at the anvil with the horn pointing to their right. I have found a rare occasion to work from the other side of my anvil on a certain bevel but 99.9999% of my work is done on what I consider the proper side of the anvil. How about the rest of you? Troy
  6. I don't know if these are my favorites but, since I am a horseshoer by trade a hoof knife is the most used of all my knives. These are some I have made.
  7. ishoe

    C-Frame press

    Thanks for the input from all. Probably take a different route. Troy
  8. I love the video of the helve hammer in operation, especially the "swing seat". "Give a lazy man a job and he'll find an easier way to do it!" Troy
  9. I was told that it was the smith's chosen hammer when using a striker. For an untimed blow from the striker the collision would simply glance off the pein of the masters hammer. I don't know but it is as good a theory as any I guess. Probably why you see the ball pein in use in so many of the old photos. Being a horseshoer by trade I used a two pound Heller ball pein for years to draw the source and finish drawing clips on horseshoes. It worked very well but I now use a one and three quarter pound cross pein for the same job.(My hammer control is greatly improved since those early days!) I seldom use a ball pein anymore. My hammer collection has grown to the point of obsession,(as per my brides thoughts anyhow) so I have alot of hammers that are better suited to what I am doing and for my style of forging. A good smith once told me a hammer is nothing more than a rock with a stick attached to it. I guess he had a point. Most seasoned smith's could get the job done with some pretty rudimentay tools and equipment. Troy
  10. CTBlacksmith is right on. I might add that a good 2x72 belt grinder would be impossible to get along without.
  11. The base has some cast lines on it and if I am not mistaken later Trentons used cast bases. If it is a Trenton it will have the weight in pounds on the front of the foot and a serial number on the front of the other foot. (Leading edge of the base under the horn.)
  12. ishoe

    Tongs Question

    I can't imagine what kind of forging one would be doing that would get tongs overheated. They should never be quenched in water over a black heat unless they are forged out of mild steel, then you can pretty much do anything you want to them. I have several pair that iI have made out of oil field sucker rod and numerous other pairs made out of the same material by Shayne Carter, Jay Sharp, Jim Quick, Jim Poor and Jim Keith. They have been quenched thousands of times without any noticible damage. Not trying to sell anything here, but Chad Chance from hoofwatch.com has a fantastic video of Jim Poor making and explaining tongs on DVD for about 40 bucks. Well worth the money. I think there is a trailer on youtube. Just search for Jim Poor tong and you should find it.
  13. ishoe

    C-Frame press

    I have a Iron Store Giant C-frame power hammer that is missing almost all of its parts. I am considering converting it to a hydraulic press. My question is does anybody have any idea if it would handle the pressure forces without breaking the frame. Thanks for any thoughts or information.
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