ThomasPowers

When one is discussing possible illegalities on an open forum it is wise to couch them as hypotheticals. When one wishes to dissuade someone from possible actions one tends to use the strongest means possible! Now you might study the burner system of the V2 to get an idea of one way to produce massive amounts of heat energy using alcohol.

Quatloos is my preferred currency in these cases.

Do you want that in Euros, Pounds, Pesos, Rand, Rupiah,..... Face looks nice, (remember that any welding, grinding or machining on the face tends to *LOWER* the value!)

Yup I buy my steel at home from a Windmill construction and repair place---old school farm windmills. They sell mild/A36 steel on the side as they get a bigger discount from the steel dealers the more they buy at a time. Some places will even allow you to piggyback an order if you need a size they don't normally carry. Sometimes you can get a 20' stick for about the sime price as a 4' stick at a big box hardware/lumber store. (Note hot rolled steel comes "naturally" in 20' sticks in the USA, so be ready to cut it for bringing home or *pay* for them to cut it. If you have them cut it, know what lengths you commonly use for things: 4' for small tripods makes for an 8' and 12' for a one cut deal; cut it in half and you end up with 4 tripod lengths and 2 2' long "waste" pieces.) Now when I need steel I check out my local scrapyard first and if they don't have what I need then stop by the Windmill place on my way home. Don't buy expensive cold rolled steel unless you have to have the sharper corners. I generally ask about off sized/length pieces and stuff that has rust damage. The forge doesn't care and any pennies I can save goes directly to my bottom line. (Why I have a scrap pile too---I pick up stuff I commonly use at the scrapyard when I can find it and store it till I need it---of course having it already to hand means I tend to design stuff to use "material on hand".)

So back to focus: better remove a foot from each of the support beams to keep it looking even...the rest you can sell at Quad State; (could make dandy swage blocks out of them!)

Note; just how were we to know that you were "younger"? I did not assume that Moonshine=Drinking. I did assume that having enough around the place was a bad idea if the G-men show up. (I'm from the ozark mountains of NW AR; my college roomate's mother used to be set on watch for revenooers when her family was running a still in the hills back in the day...some branches of my family I have politely never asked...) 95% alcohol fueled the V2 rockets and will definitely fuel a forge. However it's a trickier fuel to use than waste oil due to low viscosity and ease of vapourization (actually that makes it easier to use; but allows for more problems) Ifn I was looking to dispose of amounts of such stuff I might think of seeing if I could mix it with my waste oil to make it a bit "thinner" so to speak; but again once you go changing the parametes to a working system you are back in experimental stage and *how* *many* *tries* did it take Edison's workers to figure out a usable filament for a light bulb? Waste oil forges can be fancy using a gun from a fuel oil furnace to atomize the stuff or simple with a drip system onto a heated plate. They run very hot and were common industrial forges. (Generally made of hard firebrick, so a warm up period and cool down period and great production in the middle! They do tend to stink...) If that is what you have I'd concentrate on that and not wonder about other "exotic" fuels until you master that one.

Bituminous coal; but not all bituminous coal is good smithing coal; you want coal with low sulfur, low ash. and good coking properties. Not knowing what country you are in it's hard to suggest one to look for. Here in the USA many smiths like Pocahontas or Sewell Seam coal from the eastern side of the country. Here in the USA you can often get in touch with the local smithing groups and find where they are getting decent coal or even get in on a group buy.

"Anvils that should ring---Should Ring! Anvils that shouldn't ring---Shouldn't Ring!" Knowing which types are which is the key...

Drying off after rinsing: rinse the last time with boiling water and slap the piece against a hard surface to dislodge any water left, dries quickly then...

If you have to ask this question then building a forge to use a "non-standard fuel" will probably cost you MORE than buying an expensive propane forge and that's not even counting in possible ER trips and building replacement. My last propane forge cost me US$2 to build cause I am a good scrounger. Note that the "turkey fryers" that often get junked after Christmas have a high pressure propane regulator on them and a hose you can use to boot! I used a He party balloon tank for the shell and *found* kaowool for free at my local scrapyard. I did buy a couple of firebrick splits to armour the floor with. Burners can be built using used plumbing parts following at standardized design rigorously! If you want to experiment with burners; build a standard version *first* and learn how to modify and adjust it before branching out. Generally people take years to gain the skills to design and build burners off the cuff and that experience is not free! Finally I would suggest *NEVER* having enough untaxed liquor on hand that the ATF could make a claim that you were distributing it---that's a good way to loose property and learn shiv making in the barry place!

Note forged WROUGHT IRON anvil with steeled face; the Bessemer process didn't start until the 1850's... AinA page 68 #34 ????eson & Sons Stourbridge

Besides stainless there is always silver....look up silver fruit knives...

electrolytic de rusting if you have access to a car battery charger. Otherwise soak overnight in household vinegar and thoroughly rinse in running water the next day.

Yes it will happen. Look at old high carbon steel kitchen cutlery. That is the finish you *will* end up with. Proper old school knife handling will help and slow down the process. (rinse after use, wipe dry and wipe with a cloth oiled with a food grade oil, never let soak in water, etc...)

pretty blunt end it's been over heated in a cut before!

My shop is all steel construction in the old half and there is a C channel at the 5' mark to screw the wall sheets to. On the inside I mount garden rake heads to it so it's up above the height of the workbenches, but and easy reach. I use every other slot and the rack tines hold the golf balls well. I do have the very bad habit of tapping the side of the file on a hard surface on a regular basis. When I moved I took a roll of heavy duty shop paper towels and wrapped each file individually in one and stacked them in a steel box. My scrap files just get tossed into drawers, sorted by Black Diamond, cast steel and misc

I actually like that type of bellows more than I do my hand crank blower and that more than I like my electric blowers. Note that "looking good" is not the criteria for leather to be usable. It has to retain it's suppleness and strength which usually means replacing it regularly over time.

Does it actually say France or could it also be from Quebec, Belgium, or other francophone areas?

Looks like they have reversed the hook on that bellows. Also I have never seen a bellows with a spring pole---just a pole for a handle. Where did you come across one with such an item? (Since the default state of the bellows is bottom board down, and gravity does a good job of that; I don't see where having a spring involved does anything but increase labour!)

So what did it say when you looked up the patent?

round these parts most old large sawblades are "salvaged" into knives

I've learned to copy my post and then to go click on the reload button and check if it posted. If not then I can just paste it and try again.

dry; but in the desert rust is something that happens to other folk... I use golfballs for handles and have a number of garden rake ends mounted to the walls to hang them on---not touching!

Would NOT use that as a soup ladle due to possible previous use with toxic materials; but you could do a whale of a babbit pour with it!

Rosin and PHD Remember that there are a number of folks doing historical reproductions around here