Robakyo

Wow, Chris, you have some Serious Skills! I love the way the copper and gold stand out against the darker background, braided border, and sculpted face. To me it seems like this contrast sets up a visual vibration. Similar to the effect complimentary colors have toward one another. This is a beautiful piece! Would this kind of shield be considered a Buckler? Or, would you use it as the Boss (sp.) in a larger shield? Also, it does go nicely with your axe. Thanks for posting this too. Robert

Ranger Dave, I like the work evidently done shaping this blade. I wasn't a big fan of Paracord handles until I saw Stormcrows take on it. Hemp cord with a turkshead knot would also look great on your blade. Robert

Darned fat fingers. I meant to write: "I'm looking forward to seeing THIS, not his, turns out." Too late to edit. Anyhow, Stormcrow, when will the eventual winner be announced? Robert

James, welcome to IFI. That is a very well done first knife! It looks like you studied some before doing that. How well did that nail harden? Did you do an actual Heat Treat? Did you quench in Oil or Water? How did you secure the tang in the handle? Again, nicely shaped blade. Robert

Dave, I really like all of the knives that you posted. Pukko-ish? Did you go with a Scandi edge? Really nice forging! I like your embellishments a lot. The first knife is really cool as well! Did you punch and drift the hole? Robert

Another great piece. I really like the silhouette of this axe. Add this to the ever growing list of things I want to do! The shield in the third pic looks like more of your handiwork.?? Progress pics are always appreciated, at least by this beginner. The last ( fourth ) pic posted seems clear enough. Robert

I've had the good fortune to meet Aldo Bruno twice in person, and found him to be generous, kind, and enthusiastic about knifemaking, and life in general. A really Cool Dude! Too far away to wish anyone good luck right now, so I hope the best knife wins. Can't imagine you not in contention with your entry. I'm looking forward Seeing how his turns out. Good luck! Robert

Stormcrow, I've read about tempering tongs before, but haven't actually seen it done. Also helpful was seeing the results(Haloes) of their use. Thanks for posting those pics. This entire thread has been very helpful. Your knife looks big,bad, and extremely useful. Hope you kick some tail in the Xtreme Challenge! Best of luck! Robert

Sorry Chris, I guess I was way to vague in my question. I'd kinda like to just see you working your magic, when you are refining your finish work, up close. I'm finding it difficult to express that. I'm really inspired by what you've done with the "Lowly" RR Spike! Robert Mod note: its a clip not a spike, different material

I think we are on the verge of a Planetary Polar Shift! ; ) I really like this "Long Knife" that you forged too! Don't know what happened with your guard though. I don't have a drill press, don't know if you do either, but I was barely able to drill straight when making my one and only guard. I broke quite a few drill bits in my cordless. : ( Files cleaned up the mess. Then silver solder. I'll read Rich Hale's excellent article/Tutorial concerning this subject next time I tackle another guard. I wonder how consistent the material is though. Whatever, I'll bet you gained some valuable information in the process. Keep experimenting, and be Safe! Robert

Chris, your work is absolutely fantastic! I've seen a lot of R R Spike Hawks, but none so beautifully dressed. Thanks for posting this one too. I asked you a question regarding your technique in your pipe hawk post, but it was already answered here in this thread. Copper inlay too? Robert

Hey, I have some of those spring clips too. I didn't realize that there was a beautiful pipe hawk inside each one! ; ) seriously though, your work is very inspiring. How many different disciplines are employed to create this one piece of Art? I would love even a brief description of your methods, if it isn't too much of a bother. Your Art is fantastic! Thank you for sharing it here! Robert

Something that I wanted to ask you originally in my first post was, what did you pattern your slitter on? Was it based on the excellent info by Brian Brazeal? Sorry if I misspelled that. He provided valuable info and tons of picks on the various Slitters, Punches, and Drifts that he makes and uses. I would have gotten back to you sooner with this question, but I must've fainted when I read Thomas's comment about RR spikes. ; ) Also, I look forward to seeing the newer, more refined Warhammer you are contemplating, when finished. I'm also sure that, depending on where you live, most of the folks on this forum are considered eccentric in the eyes of their neighbors. Or worse. Robert

That blade is a real beauty Jose! After annealing, do you blunt the teeth of the file a little, or a lot? Robert

Intriguing! Hilarious, and yet Cool.

Very nicely done. Great forging. It almost looks like wood, but that is probably just the temperature of your light source. What is causing that highlight at the 5" mark? It almost looks like an integral Habaki. Robert

Stout little buggers! Nicely done. I really have to forge one of these. I bet they are addictive! I like the handles you carved too. How long did you go on your handles? Robert

Is road rage even an issue up there? I wasn't old enough to drive when I lived in Alaska, but as a passenger, I never saw an angry, aggressive driver. People were pretty laid back. Robert

Colleen, galvanic sounds right. Strange that the molded handle hasn't reacted at all on the knife I have. Again, very nice first knives. And it would be interesting to see what Beth would create. Robert

Very nice work Colleen! What do you cut with the largest one? I've read that aluminum has some form of chemical reaction with steel. Catalytic reaction? Sorry, I don't have time to look it up right now. However, I do own a mess kit knife with aluminum handles, stamped 1945. The blade is stainless, I think. Robert

Don, thanks for relating your first-hand knowledge regarding the pins. I'm under the impression that you are using a belt grinder to shape your handles. I wonder how much heat is actually generated. Rich Hale just informed me on a thread I started, that most epoxies lose their adhesion @ around 400 F. I think however, in your case, that your friend may have skipped a step or two. Please keep in mind that I've never made mosaic pins, but read everything available that I could find on the subject. Maybe he didn't degrease the rods & pins. I wipe down the tang, as well as the scales with acetone prior to using epoxy. Scuffing up the surface really helps as well, but of course, you know all this. You already do outstanding work. I've followed your other thread. You received a wealth of great advice from many knowledgeable Bladesmiths, which even more people benefitted from, my self especially. Sorry, I seem to be rambling when using this iPad. I really dislike the whole hunt and peck method of typing. Anyway, buy pins if that suits you, but quite a few Bladesmiths can and do make their own mosaic pin stock. Robert

Rich, thank you for your valued advice! This blade hardened nicely. I used refractory cement, applied conservatively, and ended up with a weak Hamon. I had bent the downward slightly beforehand, because I intended to quench it in water. What a nerve-wracking, exciting experience! I can't wait to try it again! I think that the heat treat turned out really well, considering the unknowns about thi steel. That's great to know about epoxies. I will never forget that fact. I think I'll have to chalk this up to a lesson learned, and try not to repeat this error. Thanks for your advice Rich. If I ever feel Froggy, I just might throw this puppy back in the oven. Robert

Thomas, I absolutely agree with you about the kissaki! Being one of my first ever blades, made way back in late 2010, I plead guilty to complete ignorance. I actually did base my Kissaki on the Cold Steel tanto. I have studied many subjects related to Bladesmithing ever since. I consider myself a complete novice at this, which inspired the title of this thread. I truly appreciate your compliment about the cleavers and chef's knife. They, along with the last batch of knives were forged this past winter. Outside, in my wood burning forge. I felt confident enough to heat treat all of those blades in one day earlier this spring. I gained that knowledge here, on IFI. You, and so many others here, offer lifetimes of experience in the information you share. Thank you Thomas! ........ Thanks, to everyone who shares their triumphs and failures. Robert P.S.- I just realized that I do have some wisdom to impart: If you use wood as fuel in your forge, be sure to wear a hat, or you'll singe most of your hair off! : )

Very nice forgings. How do they cut? I like the handle shape on your first ax. Robert

Alright, I know that my knives aren't stellar, but I was hoping to get some real advice on how to correct certain flaws. Of course, the first rule is to leave sufficient material for the HT ( which I didn't do because it was one of my first). Having said that, how can I correct a slight curve to a blade edge without re-heat treating? The thought of lightly tapping out the flaw on my anvil without causing it to break I find daunting! Oh yeah, and I've already epoxied it! Have any of you folks done this successfully? Robert