Robakyo

Greetings All, This past spring while wandering through the woods parallel to a stream, searching for antler drops, I found this heavy piece of metal. Above, was an abandoned R.R. overpass. This object was half imbedded in the stream. No idea how long it lay there, but the rust wasn't too bad. So, I wrestled it out of the stream and lugged it back through the woods to my vehicle. It maybe weighed 70 lbs. The measurements were as follows: 78 1/2 " x 2 1/2" x 1 1/4". The 1 1/4" was forged down to about 3/4" on the ends. I'm not sure if it was connected with trains or if it was a discarded piece off of some heavy construction equipment. I've searched picture files of trains, freight cars, fuel tankers, etc., but nothing conclusive. I wouldn't even know where to begin or what to look for on heavy construction equipment if I were to try a search. I found something vaguely similar online, and that object was called an archbar. But it doesn't quite look right for that, and it isn't even symmetrical. Is it some kind of spring steel? I look at it and I see a bunch of hammers, punches, drifts, hardies, and maybe a Hawk or ten. Spark testing suggests that carbon is present. I am baffled, which isn't saying much. I hope that one of you learned Smiths here can enlighten me. - Robert

Howzit Steve, Another kick### sword! Not having made a sword, but having read much about it, I can only imagine how difficult the polishing process is. Of course, I used to imagine what it would be like to have children, but the reality has proven infinitely more complex. As always, I find your work inspiring. Aloha, - Robert

If I ever become proficient enough at this craft, I would like to build one like yours. Is that WI piece half of a chain link? It looks massive! Where do you find salvage like that? Old canneries, abandoned mines, old logging chain sections abandon in the forest, or some secret shipwreck? When I think back to the years I lived in Sitka, I realize that there an abundance of abandoned machinery, rusting and unclaimed. Definitely salvageable. I also think that the problem I have with fitting the mig tip is that I suspect that the pipe nipple isn't 1/8" and therefore not schedule 80. I just measured it and the wall appears to be 1/16" thick. The guy at the plumbing supply store looked at me like I had two heads when I asked for schedule 80. I should have measured first. It appears that the tips aren't the problem. Well, at least I have 19 spares now! Robert

Thanks Phil! I have seen the Lincoln tips at Lowes. I had no idea they were the same size. That gets me very close to finishing my burner. Your tutorial is very thorough, but lacking a drill press, I couldn't possibly hold my cordless steady enough. I'll go back and re-read what was written on the Kcrucible burner page. Robert

Ted, all I can say is Thank You! You have given me a lot to think about. I've considered propane to be the most hazardous choice for forging, for some time. Coal is out of the question where I live, so I've been struggling along with charcoal/wood. Earlier this year I had a chance to forge a knife at Aldo's hammer in. He had a two burner set-up that worked awesomely. I realized that propane wasn't as bad as I thought. But of course, it should absolutely be respected! I made a coffee can forge to finish the knife that I made at Aldo's because I didn't like the way I positioned the sweep of the tang. Also, I was able to widen and taper the tang in order to allow for larger scales. It worked well enough to do what was required. I should have put a back door in it, but at the time I didn't realize how crucial they are. Now, I've moved up to a 5 Liter mini keg as my forge body. I discovered that they are in fact made of steel. I tested it with a magnet at the store. Of course, it was a whole lot of work to finish all that beer in a timely manner. Eventually, my persistence paid off. The burner I'm working on is based on the burner in the tutorial by Nathan Creel, whose design is based on Mr. Larry Zoeller's design. I am having minor issues because I lack certain tools. I can't find Tweco mig tips anywhere. The mig tips I bought at Harbor Freight are smaller than the inside diameter of the 1/8" X 4" schedule 80 pipe nipple. I've considered just silver brazing one in. I'm wondering if anyone else has tried that. Anyway, check out Larry Zoeller's website as well. He shows you how to construct a steel 5 gallon paint can forge. I wish you the best. - Robert

I'm curious as to why charcoal isn't an option? I know that both you and Ted must have excellent fire tending skills. From what I've read, not ever having used coal or coke, the forge set up is basically the same. In my opinion, charcoal does better in a side blast configuration. There are other differences such as radiant heat, fuel consumption, etc. Since you have a farm, you would be in the enviable position of being able to make your own charcoal. If I tried that in my neighborhood, the fire-department would surely show up. There are many plans for constructing burners, quite a few by members on this site. Of course, my memory is very selective, so I don't recall who or where to acquire this. I would use that search box in the upper right-hand corner of this very page. Or Google: forge making tutorial by Nathan Creel. Good luck. Robert

Extraordinary effect! The top is a Ladder pattern, that I understand, but why is the bottom also considered a ladder? And how did you achieve the concentric circles? Truly awesome work! Thanks for sharing. Robert

Sam, that is beautifully executed! The design you've chosen, to me, is the ideal form for the tactical Hawk. I'd really like to see that in person as well. All I can say is WOW! -Robert

Could it be utilized as the carbon component in canned damascus? Could you mixed a good quantity of mild steels shavings and small cut-offs with a bit of cast iron? Wouldn't that keep the CI from spraying everywhere? Would the CI carbon migrate into the low carbon steel enough to produce at least a medium carbon steel? Should you add something else as well to the brew? I have been intrigued by that notion for some time. Of course, if such were the case, I would be unable to predict the ratio of CI to mild steel or low carbon steel. Thoughts? -Robert I am still learning, so please don't rip me apart. :(

Very nice knife. I, too, really like the tire tread idea! I can see where the holes in the tang "might" create a durable bond, linking the two scales. I don't know anything about the ultimate longevity of epoxy, so I couldn't say, being the utter novice that I am. What kind of epoxy did you use? The scales are unique to my experience. That was quite the brain-wave you had. The PVC sheath is another item I need to explore. Maybe you could call the scales "Gibbo Grips". Thanks for sharing. - Robert

Aloha CG. Nice skinner. What is it for, Wild pigs? Mmmm, Kalua pig! How do you forge bed frame steel? Do you/could you fold and forge weld it, or would that be asking for trouble? I have gathered several complete bed frames and am trying to determine the best way to utilize them. Aloha - Robert

This is one of those rare occasions that I wouldn't mind viewing some extremely large pictures! Fantastic craftsmanship. Do you use wet stones to polish the blade, or belt grinder? Thanks for posting the amazing blades that you create! Every one of them I find inspiring. -Robert

Never mind the question about the knife handle, I see the slit now. Again, very nice work.

Excellent work. I really like the lines of your knife. That hatchet is no slouch either. Did you upset the stock to gain enough material to form the hatchet head, fold and weld, or just weld another piece to the end? I also like that you split and expanded the handle. Did you do the same with your knife? It isn't as apparent if you did. Regardless, this is something that I want to explore eventually. Thanks for posting. -Robert

Peter, I hope to one day make an equally awful knife. But seriously, your design choices were excellent. I agree with much of what you said, but as others have pointed out, you made that knife for a client. It kinda reminds me of the offspring of a tanto and bowie, if they had kids. I'm sure that you'll have another opportunity to make that style of knife. Then your experience will have the voice of authority.-Robert

I guess that as a newbie, I am a bit paranoid where zinc is concerned. After reading various accounts about Paw Paw Wilson, a Smith of vast knowledge, I take heed. Also, even though his forge melted, it was determined to be aluminum. And certainly his next forge will have an insulating layer of dirt, clay, or other substance to increase efficiency as well as protect the forge body. I intended to mention the use of vinegar to strip the zinc, but alas, I found myself distracted as I am again at this moment. Well Juicaj1, best of luck with your next build.-Robert

Greetings Juicaj1. I am most concerned about the second picture you posted. It seems that all of the pipe parts that you are using appear to be galvanized. Even the pipe flange! Also, in light of my recent readings, bottom blast is less efficient than side blast for charcoal. And welcome to IFI. Robert

Howzit Steve, Nice Habaki. Seems like you've done a few of those before. Until I read the book "The Craft of the Japanese Sword," I had no idea what purpose the Habaki served. Did you go with a textural or a smooth finish? Hard to tell from the second picture. What kind of wood did you use for the scabbard? Actual ho wood? Take care. Robert

Does the "cloud" formation penetrate to the other side. In the picture you posted, there doesn't appear to be any damage to the surface of the refractory coating applied to the blade. Happy accident. Becomes useful when repeatable. Maybe Oahu or the Big Island have what you need. The web can save a lot of travel time, but it would be a nice excuse to stretch your legs. Inter-Island travel is so convenient, at least it was while I lived on Oahu. Wow! Looking at your latest pictures, it turned out great. It's da kine Brah! Sorry Steve, that doesn't sound cool when I write that. You know what I mean, I hope. Aloha, Robert

Aloha Steve. That is one fine blade! Even unpolished, the action of the hamon is great. I look forward to the final outcome. Aloha, Robert

Greetings Bubba-san (James), Your forging is fantastic. Are the majority of the blades presented here for wood carving? Aside from the four large tanto-style blades. Were they used to carve the handle and sheath shown? As a newbie, I am confused by the absence of tang holes. Maybe they are not necessary on knives. Is that common? In the book I am currently reading, "The Craft Of the Japanese Sword", the tangs all have holes, And are extensively textured with file mark patterns. Texturing the tang with files is something that I was previously unaware of. Also, in another thread titled "sword and hawk" you posted pics of stone weapons. Sorry to get off topic, but last year I found an artifact in the Little Missouri river. It looks like a large stone peanut,(peanuts still in the shell) about 4" long, with decorative carving on it. Most of the design is worn away. Was this maybe some kind of club head? Again, sorry to jump track. Your blade work is masterful. Robert

Very nice work. I just sketched your cleaver in my "to do" book. Very clean design. Could you maybe post a few more pics from different angles. I'm wondering how you handled the bevel in particular. The corrosion seems to be a visual asset. I think that the pitting also prevents veggies from sticking to the blade. Robert

Thanks for the clarification Matt. The link showed the RR spring clip I am familiar with. I was under the false assumption that it was "J" shaped. Looks like an upside down "J", a completely different animal. Thanks also on the advice on quenchants. Water or Brine. Is canola considered a fast or slow oil? I guess the best bet would be to progress from oil to water on samples of the metal and test for hardness. Again, Thanks for the valuable advice. -Robert