Robakyo

Thank you Dave. I appreciate that a lot. Thank you Gergely. Even though it looks rustic, I draw filed the blade and took it to 220 grit before the heat treatment. It is tough. I've used it to dig arrow tips out of target frames, and a few tree trunks. It still holds a good edge. Thank you Benton. I worked quite a bit on design sketches and then made several cardboard cut-outs to see what shape felt comfortable in my hand. Even so, after forging, I felt the curve of the handle crowded my hand, so I straightened the arch more.

Those are some fine looking garden tools gentlemen! It seems like RR spikes would be a reasonable choice for rugged outdoor tools. Robert

This is a knife I made over the winter. Simple, and without the usual file work. Mystery metal of the bed frame kind. Ipe scales with brazing rod pins. I made another similar to this, but gave it to my brother, who was visiting from Colorado. I'll have to get him to send me a few pics. Robert

Wow! Looks like you put a lot of time and effort in that knife. Me like! I'd have a hard time parting with it too. Great looking knife. Robert

The profile on the first knife is really cool. Also, the way the sweep of the bolster/guard almost meets the cutting edge is an unexpected surprise. I'm having difficulty explaining that. The second knife, to me anyway, has a Scottish feel. I like how you finished the back of the handle too. Robert

Sleek. It has a great profile, and the fit and finish are superb. I wrote more, but it vanished. Your work is always impressive. Robert

Have you considered making your own? That is one of the things still on my to do list. Robert

Thanks. I'll check K and G when I get the chance. Is that the route you go with your blades? I suppose that would be the best way to make mosaic pins as well. Robert

I think I did too. Is that a tandem syringe arrangement? Some of my scales stayed on while others popped off. Maybe the amount of hardener wasn't consistent. It seemed to be solid until it wasn't. Robert

Here are the chisel shaped lead knives styled after the knives favored by my teacher from Japan. I recently found an old stained glass book that showed how to make a similar lead knife from a putty knife. It seems kind of flimsy to me. I also think this style is favored in Europe, as my teacher studied glass painting in Italy. It amused me that he learned so much even though he barely spoke Italian, and I learned quite a bit from him while I was there, although my Japanese was atrocious. So I guess he was empathetic with my plight. Sometime the visual lessons transcend language. Blah, blah, blah....Well, here they are.

Will do Rich. After putting my procedures in writing, I realize what a PITA it has been. But, one of the kitchen choppers is holding up with no signs of de-laminating. This particular tool is not only called upon to slice, I use it to tenderize pork, pounding the fillets with the spine of the blade. It is akin to fullering! :lol: I don't particularly like the grey appearance of the JB weld. What kind of black pigment could I add to the mix that wouldn't compromise the integrity of the epoxy? Robert

Hi Bigfoot, and thank you. Maybe they could be used for scraping the fat from a skin, but I've no idea. The width of the blade doesn't seem capable of piercing and sliding under the skin smoothly, but I've never tried it. The curve of the edge is designed to rock across the surface of the lead came marking the angle of the cut. It is indispensable in fabricating stained glass windows. Robert

Thank you Michael. Actually, I haven't had the best luck with epoxy, and of course I used the slow set variety. At some point I'll try JB Weld, but for now I've been using Gorilla glue. Once the GG cures and I've roughed out the handle with rasps, I apply India ink to the glue joint. GG seems to accept this "tinting" very well and pulls it deeply enough into the joint that subsequent finish sanding doesn't remove it. Then, after that dries I apply any stain that I intend to use (usually the vinegar used to remove the scale from the blade after forging) . Once that is dry I apply a coat or two of Super glue, allowing it to cure and then file and sand the joint once more. Then I apply floor wax and buff until shiny. It makes my file work stand out against the black that surrounds it. Dang! I really need to find a better way of doing the glue-up! I also slightly peen the pins before the glue sets. I believe that the metal swells slightly in the holes of the scales, adding to the bonding process. I don't have definitive proof of that, but since adopting these methods, none of my scales have loosened up. Robert

Hi All. Mostly I lurk, or occasionally comment, but always I am inspired by the endless creativity and talent of the members posting on IFI. I have been involved in stained glass since the late 90's, and one of the most fundamental tools of this craft is the lead knife. These three knives are a variation of the style I was first introduced to. They are each a bit under 7 inches. Bedframe steel, forge finished, file worked, with brazing rod pins. They all cut through lead came very smoothly. I use paraffin wax as a lubricant to facilitate a clean cut, so some of the wax is still visible on the cutting edge of the blades. Hope the pictures load alright. The Ipe handled knife is mine, but the smaller of the other two is on its' way to a stained glass painter in Japan. I studied under him for three months and greatly admire his painting talents. He uses a different style of lead knife that I have copied and will post later. Those have a straight, chisel shaped blade. Robert

I like it. Seax or sheeps foot inspired? It has a very nice flow. Robert

Great looking knife! The pattern is really nice, and your mosaic pins class it up even more. Your sheath turned out well. What did you use to press the Kydex with to the mold it to the blade? I've seen videos where they use a hinged contraption with hooking latches, until the Kydex cools. Also, some kind of stiff neoprene or closed cell foam. I'm not really sure what that lining material was anymore. You did an excellent job with only two hands! ;) It looks like that sheath holds your knife securely enough. So you've only made two knives, your design sense is impeccable. Robert

Beautiful knife. I like the modifications you chose to make. I can actually see how more of a squared off cross-section can aide in the gripping ability of some knives, but personally, I prefer an oval cross-section as well. Robert P.S.- Your hamon is strangely organic. It seems like some wild beast trying to emerge from within. :D

Theo, I can understand that metal has the plastic beat where durability and appearance is concerned, but IMO the metal is less comfortable in the hand. It would also need to be accounted for in the balance wouldn't it? Looking at your pictures again however, I can see your point. The guard and pommel would definitely have been better served had they been fabricated in metal. What about a combination? With the plastic, you even have the possibility of adding scrimshaw. I really don't know what the consistency of that plastic feels like. I know you described it as lego-like, so I am still intrigued by the possibilities. Anyway, I really like this knife a lot, and I'm certain the client will be very pleased. Robert

Very cool! Have you considered lightly sanding, and then staining and sealing a future version? It might give it an antiqued look. Fascinating work without a doubt, Robert

Really nice group of knives! I like the texture left near the spines, and the handle material is intriguing. Are the scales made of bone? The profiles are really well designed too, with the ricasso forming a finger guard of sorts. Robert

It's looking good. You are staying true to your concept drawing. On the second image of your drawing, you indicated what appears to be a basket weave pattern or something similar, that will be carved into the handle. Is that correct, or am I misinterpreting your sketch? Personally, I like the blackness that results from the quench. I think your knife will look good either way. Robert

I really like the profile of your blade so far. I am surprised at how thin it is already. It amazes me that it only "slightly" warped. This can easily be fixed according to what I've read on IFI. StormCrow wrote a detailed post on correcting such a warp. I don't recall the post it was contained in, but maybe he will pop in and direct you to the appropriate URL. Using his description of the methods involved, I did succeed in correcting a warped blade. I'll try to explain it as simply as I can remember it. If I flub the details, I apologize in advance. Disclaimer: I am a novice, I do this for fun and the joy of forging. And have no intention of becoming a professional Bladesmith. Take a bar of steel, could be mild steel, sufficiently long enough for you to clamp your blade to. You also need two metal shims between the blade and the bar stock. The curve of the blade should be facing away from the bar stock. Place the shims far enough from the warp so that when you clamp the center of the warp, it will reverse the direction of the warp towards the bar stock. How much to reverse the curve I don't recall. I wouldn't place a shim near the hidden tang(unless that is the location of the warp), but near the ricasso and the other closer to the tip. To me, it was about trial and error. I had to temper it several times until I got it right. Temper the blade as normal. I used my kitchen oven when my wife was away. :lol: Good thing too, because the paint on my HF C-clamp produced some awful fumes. I look forward to seeing your completed knife. How are you going to do the Runic symbols? Etching maybe? Robert

Theo, didn't you flatten the twisted handle on the chopper you recently forged? I thought that that was an interesting solution. I do like the unique qualities of this knife. Robert

Soaking a galvanized steel for 2 days should have removed the zinc coating.

Eddie, I think that a few of your steps are out of sequence. 1. Forge to shape. 2. Anneal 3. File, sand, finish to 220 grit 4. Normalize ( 1 - 3 times) 5. Harden (1 - 3 times) 6. Temper (1 - 3 times) 7. Final finish and sharpening I work with sandpaper and files exclusively, so I need my steel to be in it's softest state. I also don't allow my cutting edge to get any thinner than a dime. In my primitive set-up, a nickel thickness is even safer to prevent warping. Robert