Maillemaker

If the head is flat on one side, then it would probably be used for squaring timbers

Most likely; but check local scrap yards or salvage depots for mild. Pay by the pound, not retail!

Generally, welding two different steels together is more difficult than welding two chemically similar steels. Mild steel has a higher welding temperature than high carbon. This means that you could overheat or even burn your carbon steel attempting to reach mild steel's welding temperature. Since the same alloy has the same welding temp, that's one less variable to consider. (Side note: has anyone ever done testing to determine what "welding temperature" is for various blends of steel?) Some alloys have chemicals that make them more difficult to forge weld: leaf springs, generally 5160, are notorious for this.

Maybe it has both! I know there are a few members here that have smelted Lake Superior black sand into steel. I remember watching a video where they were collecting the sand, but I can't seem to find it.

Lake Superior black sand.

Hey! You talking about me behind my back? My story is eerily similar to mailledemon's. I was always interested in medieval history as a kid. This led me to lots of medieval-based computer games, then on to learning to weave maille (taught at scout camp), and rescuing my great-grandfather's rivet forge from a half-century of flower stand duty. I am registered as an official Metalworking Merit Badge instructor for the scouts, and bring my forge and anvil up to summer camp to teach younger staff.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/25247-heat-treat-information/

Kayne and Sons has a cast iron one for around $35. I've probably made 15 wrap-and-weld hawks, and I cannot complain about the drift.

I've always wanted to make my own mini tongs for weaving maille, but I never seem to remember when I have the forge lit.

I laughed at that scene too.

That's the problem with ferrous materials and magnets. Even being in proximity to a relatively weak magnet will induce magnetic properties. It doesn't take much attraction to get iron filings to stick to a file, and dropping the file on your concrete floor to remove the magnetism could be harmful to both parties.

How does one go about fitting a golf ball onto the tang of a file? Sounds really useful.

Send a message to Richard Furrer of Door County Forgeworks. He is a master swordsmith, and has offered wootz classes, as well as being featured in the PBS show "Secrets of The Viking Sword".

Welding is finicky if you don't have much experience. Mark Aspery has several great videos on Youtube that discuss weld theory, as well as general procedure. Once you get the hang of it, welding has a huge diversity of uses.

Do a whole lot of reading first. I'm not sure what you're trying to do here. If you are trying to make a pattern-welded billet, you are missing a couple things. Pattern-welded steel is made with at least two different steels that are stacked in layers and welded together. If this is what you are trying to do, you need to have a contrasting steel in addition to the mower blade. I noticed you said you wanted to "melt" the steel together. Welding is very different from melting. Generally, blacksmiths have nothing to do with melting steel. That's a foundry operation. If you are trying to make the steel thicker by folding it in half and welding, go for it. However, if your welds are poor, you run the risk of having the finished product break along the faulty weld line. If you are just trying to straighten it out, there's no problem with that. Mower blade is a good steel for knives and such because of the medium to high carbon content. Have fun bashing!

WD40 and a wire brush. If there are any markings, they'll show up with a little elbow grease.

Wow. I really can't say anything else.

reduces risk of over-flattening.

Not unless you use it for something else. That has got to be the strangest holdfast I have ever seen. Obviously, the previous smith made it himself, and even though it looks strange, it must have worked for him!

Yet another problem is a lack of demand for traditionally produced ironwork. With today's modern industry and focus on cheap mass production, blacksmithing is a niche market. I have received a grand total of one commission for my work, not including knives. Most people can't tell the difference between machined and forged material, and as such, will almost always settle for the cheapest product. To me, a well-rounded blacksmith needs to be an artist, craftsman, designer and an engineer. Ironwork needs to be effective and aesthetically pleasing if a smith wants to attract and keep clients. As always, blacksmithing will be a subjective term, and will mean something different to each practitioner.

That is not a sword that is feasible to forge. Nearly all "fantasy" swords are wonderfully imaginative, but ridiculously impractical. You have been given constructive advice. The issue is that your project is so far out of the realm of realistic blacksmithing. You might be able to forge the blade, but the hilt and crossguard would have to be cast, or produced by modern manufacturing practices. Not a job for a beginner.

Welcome aboard. It's a pleasure to have another ladysmith join the ranks.

What is your front made of? If it is a combustible material, make sure you clay it in a similar fashion to the rest of the firepot. Check out Tim Lively's washtub forge here http://timlively.com/arrowheadwtf.htm It might answer some questions you have.

Da Yoopers have a song called "The Killing of The Big Pig" 16 year old pig got into the root cellar. Tried hitting it in the head with a hammer; hammer broke. 16 gauge in the pig's ear? The pig just sneezed. Finally got the town hall cannon: three shots to knock it down, four more shots to finish it. seemed appropriate..

Well, what are they? Form often follows function in our trade. They don't look terribly hard to make; there isn't much that I see other than drawing out the tang and shaping the body.