Farmall

Just got a really nice 5-inch jaw post vise. Only issue is the crack on the mount as shown. I realize that three bolts ought to be good enough, but someone felt that 4 were needed, so I figure I should set things right.....and that's where the question is. Since it is probably all rusty inside that crack, how should I clean it out prior to trying to reattach? Should I heat it up, bend it further away, let it cool, and clean it or is there a better way? I figure someone in this group has made a similar repair and could help. Thanks for any and all responses.

Prayers sent. Hope that you do perserve and remain a 'smith.

Thanks. I'll let him know to get in his car and drive very quickly back to the store......

Buddy of mine ran across this 110 pound Fisher at an antique mall. He said they are asking $380 for it with the stand. Is that reasonable? I know Fishers bring some good $$, but that's still more than $3 a pound. Even if you subtract $80 for the stand, that's still $2.73. The face is in excellent shape he said. Based on what I've read here, that still seems kinda high. What do you think? Are Fishers worth that?

Here's my two cents......the discussion has wandered from what I perceive is the intent of the original poster. He is correct that it IS expensive to become a dedicated, full-time 'smith. Yet, it seems that, again, everyone is right in this discussion, based upon the individual's perspective. As has been pointed out, if you are a hobbyist 'smith, just doing for fun and maybe every now and again selling something, the cost can be very low to get into the hobby....but the investment goes up based upon the desired outcome - if it is to supplement income, the equipment cost generally rises as the need requires either equipment in much better shape, or more specialized equipment. If the outcome is to be a full time 'smith, of course price goes up again. Production requires labor costs to be kept to a minimum, thus power hammers come into view, larger forges, heat treating equipment, faster welders, mig, tig, plasma cutters, etc. I am a hobbyist 'smith and have gotten better equipment by buying and selling up. For example, my first post vise was a 3.5-inch jaw missing the screw box I got for free, but it worked...sold it for $75 and bought a 5-inch jaw missing the mount for $60. So, I am $15 ahead in that race, but the labor to make the mount (and the metal involved) made it break even from a cost standpoint....but that isn't why I am smithing. It is an outlet for my creativity and allows me to great stress relief. Were I to start goiing to fairs and such to sell my wares, I would expect to get better equipment to make it more profitable. So, from a making money perspective, 'smithing can be expensive. From a creativity outlet and hobby, it can be cheap. Let's think about this, if the question is "How much does it cost to get blacksmithing equipment that includes a london pattern anvil, a gas-fired forge, all of the hammers and tongs needed, and a 4 to 6-inch post vise and start within a month?", it is expensive. If the question is "how much does it take to start blacksmithing at home for a hobby and get the equipment over a period of time"? it can be done for cheap, especially if time is not a factor. Again, as I stated at the beginning, everyone's answer is correct, based on their own experience at answering the question "How much did it take you to get into blacksmithing?" So the original poster was right when he said it is expensive to get into 'smithing as he knows what it cost him and a production 'smith such as he must have the right equipment, operating properly, to become as efficient at making things as possible as labor is expensive. But 'smithing can be cheap if time and making it profitable.are removed from the equation and it is a hobby. We have seen plenty of good deals talked about on this site, but what we don't hear too much about are the times that a person has overpaid (and found out later) or paid the fair price for equipment! To bring this to close, I have seen pictures of amazing stuff done by hobbyists and full-time smiths alike, generally the only difference being the amount of time involved to make them, so in the end, if the perspective is enjoying what you do and being proud of your achievements, the cost is the same for everyone. My two cents, and probably worth what you paid! I enjoy reading everyone posts on this site and the perspectives they bring. I have been given much food for thought on this forum and the price was free......but the informaton gleaned is priceless. Thanks.

Well, I skimmed through most of it in a hurry, but here's where I found items that might interest this group (hope this helps): under the "F" section, are plates for Farriers that shows the equipment used, as well as several interesting sections on Forging and the art of iron, under N for natural history, there is a section entitled Mineralogy and Metallurgy there is processing of copper and gold (mostly refining related), under C there is chainmaker, and coppersmithing, Under G is goldsmith, goldbeater (interesting name), and gunsmith (which only shows armor, swords, maces, pikes and spears, Under H is Heavy Nail Making, Under L is Locksmith (inlcudes balcony, balustrades, overdoor parts, nails, and other nice architectural iron, M has Metal Jewelry Goldsmithing, under O is Ornamental Metalwork and Damasking, P is for Pewterer, Pin Making, and Pinmaker, R has rope making (kinda interesting), S is for sculpture, silversmith, and spirit distillation (if interested), T is for Tinplate (great views of the stakes), Toolmaker (nice section showing various tools, including how to make anvils), and The Manufacture of VIses is also under T and shows how to make post vises, and lastly under W is Wheelwright that shows tools, forge, anvils, vises, etc.

That's the one in Maryland. I'd get it if I was closer!

were many anvils stamped with the weight marks on that side of the anvil? Generally I have seen them on the other side.

I've got a similar size anvil I'd swap for that trenton if it's that good a shape.

Getting ready for an indoor anvil shoot?

What a great looking anvil.....definitely anvil envy here!

reckon it could be nails, screws, bolts, or nuts, depending on size.

That is a hit and miss, well, I think it is really a throttle governed engine. Looks like a Mcormick "M" engine around 3-6 HP. I'd love to find a barn like that!

They are always listed on ebay as either a "lineman's crimping tool:" or "telelgraph wire crimping tool" This link shows a photo of 4 different ones. http://www.worthpoin...rimper-74485381

I looked at the 1914 Hay budden catalog and a 4 foot long hay budden is approaching 700-800 pounds. but that's with a 7 to 8 inch wide face. That's a goodie for sure.

It's worth it! I'd jump on it. If it were a Hay-Budden, it would weigh between 300 and 400 pounds! Plenty of flat surface there to work on...and it's got that hardy hole you are looking for.

I'll be there Saturday.....gotta work Friday and teach Sunday School on Sunday......

When you get that 500 # hay budden, I'll be glad to store that 450# Fisher for you. Obviously, you won't need 2 of that size!

Wow! What a Beaut!

Oh, they do stock some blackmsith made items in the Prentiss store. They have fireplace toasters, spoons, spatulas, candle holders, nails, and a few other smaller pieces.

Short answer is yes....but there's more.....I have purchased both a carpenter's axe and a wheeler's axe from them. I will get a felling axe next. The process can be slow. Basically, you get with the master of the shop, Ken Schwarz, and speak with hm about what you want. A price is established, and if you wish to proceed, then you will be added to the list. When they have time where they are not making things for Colonial Williamsurg like hinges, nails, locks, etc., they will work on your piece. It took me around a year or so to get the axes I have. I got my wheeler's axe when they were making them for the wheelwrights and the carpenter's axe, when the carpenters needed some. I was fortunate in that Shel Browder was still working there and made my wheeler's axe. Not that any of them do poor quality work, it's just that I wanted a piece that Shel made, and the luck of the draw gave me one. So, to answer your question, if you have patience, then, yes, you can get stuff from them.

It might be a Soderfors. The "Ju" could be the bottom of the the letters "S" abnd "o" based upon looking at some other Soderfors anvil markings.........

It was great to see Ken all dressed up in his ascot and green morning coat for the celebration. Peter Ross and Shel Browder were in attendance. I took a bunch of photos of the nice clean shop (that won't last) and have posted them on Photobucket. Enjoy. Here's the link to the photos. For whatever reason, it opens on page 2 of the photos. There are 60 in total. Be sure and check pages 1 and 2 out: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v37/farmall/Williamsburg%20Grand%20Opening/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ36

My brother just got this anvil today and asked me to help identify the anvil. I'm away from home, so don't have my copy of Anvils in America handy. Can anyone help me identify this for him? Anvil is clearly marked "99 lbs", but has what appears to be a "Ju" just above the weight. Here are the dimensions: Face Length - 13" Length of horn - 8-1/2" Width - 3-3/4" Hardie hole - 3/4" Pritchel hole 1/2" Height - 9-1/2

How'd you get the legs off? I've got one just like and need to replace one of the legs, but I can't get it to come out. Really don't want to cut it.