Farmall

Pug}{Man, I have a couple of these....I'd gladly trade for a full size wagon tongue vise!

If I remember Postman right, tables on anvils starting showing up 1800 or so and pritchel holes after 1820.

Well, a 5 -inch wide by 34 inch long Hay Budden would weigh around 300# according to the catalog someone posted here a while back.

Breast drill? I thought they had a flat oval looking piece, not a round handle. However, I really don't know, so you may be right. I'll research them and see what I find out. Thanks for the information.

I found this old drill in an antique store and bought it. Looks very early, but really have no idea. The chuck is simply a tapered square hole like in a post drill. It is stamped with the owner's name "J. H. Geese" in 4 places, but no manufacturer name. Any ideas on age, maker, anything? It works and looks like the handle is walnut. <_<

Family lost the old key to the smokehouse (1700's or early 1800s's) where the freezer and tools were! Locksmiths couldn't make the key as it was too large...so a family friend who was a hobbyist blacksmith made the key. http://www.wset.com/...-key?hpt=us_bn8

Prayers sent! I've learned a lot just from his books.

the cheap clay litter is basically bentonite....shrink/swell soil. It is dried out in a kiln and ground up to make the litter.....it will absorb the moisture and expand.....also bentonite is used in drilling mud and all kinds of application....

Prayers sent!

They are really nice looking. Great work!

Done, sir!

Take care of your parents! Save the curmudgeonness up for is...it shall be sorely missed. Prayers sent that everything will come out well for you and your family.

Again, thanks for all the responses and insights. I have both made and bought handles, but since I have modified most handles anyway, I figured it was just as easy to make them from riven hickory. I take pleasure from doing things by hand. As this is a hobby, I have no need to rush or find the most efficient way for making handles. MarcusB, if you were closer, I'd stop by. As it is probably 8-9 hours from me, probably not! But thanks for the offer!

Thank you, Thomas for reminding me that I had not put my location in my profile. I fixed that. I am in Virginia. While we have lots of hickory trees, gaining access to pieces for handles has been a challenge. I have bought cheap handles at flea markets, but have not had much luck finding any recently. I appreciate the response to my question.

Marcusb, thank you, but I am looking for the hickory to rive to start with. I have made them before, just need a source of the hickory to start with.

Over the last year or so I have purchased a number of hammers and swages that are in dire need of handles. I like to use hickory and am not against shaping it myself from a block. Anybody have some good sources of hickory to use for handles (or inexpensive hickory handles that can be reshaped)?

stiffen the wooden ramp by gluing/nailing a 2X4 vertically to the center underneath......

If it were a hay budden, it would be between 350-450 pounds according to the 1914 catalog. Here's a link to it on this forum. Hay buddens had a serial number on the front left side. It's a keeper! http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/18789-hay-budden-anvil-catalogue-from-191415/

Looks a lot like a Hay budden....does it say "Lakeside" on the side maybe? HB made anvils marked "Lakeside" for Montgomery Ward according to Anvils in America.

Thanks Mr. Turley for that explanation. The depth of knowledge of the people here continues to amaze me.

Mr. Miller, if you want to forge weld it up, just send me your address. I'll send it on and pay shipping both ways.

Again, I appreciate all the posts and the suggestions.....I take no offense with any.

Well, I am in Virginia. Haven't had a chance to take it to the local meeting, as I just got it and the meeting is in July, but if I don't have it fixed yet, I shall certainly ask them. I have never been afraid of asking for help, and then keeping my mouth shut to learn from others..... I do appreciate all the responses. As to the insertion of a rivet, would it be a long rivet through the crack to hold everything together if it breaks? If I do that, wouldn't it get in the way of separating the gap and cleaning it out? Maybe I'm not understanding....

Thanks, Mr. Turley.

Matto, thank you for that response. Mr. Miller, that's kind of what I was thinking - heat it, bend it, clean it, heat it up good, flux and forge weld. Wasn't sure if there were any better ideas out there. Thanks.