Ted T

My health is blessed. I would hope that you and all of our brother and sister Smiths are doing as well! Thank You for asking! Ted Throckmorton

Flexability or Elasticity is a physical property describing material that has the ability or returns to it's orginal shape after being stressed. My opinion is only a starting point. I am not a blade smith, they would most likely be of more help to you!

WOW At a loss for words. Ted Throckmorton

Sam!!! Good on you! just keep on stepping!! Thank you for the update! P James, what I have found over the years to be very interesting is that men and women who have had years of life experence behind them , tend to bring to the table of Blacksmithing a wealth experence of "how to go about solving problems" Blacksmithing is all about solving problems. The more you learn about each individual forging skill and add it to your quiver of knowledge, problem solving gets a lot easyer. We all come in on the backs of the blacksmiths and other craftsman who proceeded us, just as they did. Wisdom says to find a good horse and ride it! I am implying that it is important to find a reliable source to learn the craft of blacksmithing from. Here at I Forge Iron we have some top of the line Blacksmiths and Knife makers plus many other people who are higkly skilled in paralleling metal crafts that are willing to assist people who are on their quest for knowledge! I wish you men the very best! Ted Throckmorton

I am betting on you that you will figure a way out to do what you need and want to do. The main thing is to keep pointed forward or moving forward toward your goals regardless of the speed. It has taken me three years to build and furnish a small blacksmith shop that should have taken me just a few weeks to do when I was younger. I figure one step forward at a time, and some time three steps backwards, but at least I am in motion. So if you fall, fall forward. Then when you pick yourself up you will be closer to your goal! My best to you! Ted Throckmorton

I have no question that your HOOKED! We are fortunate that we have people (members) who care enough to make you aware of issues just in case you were not. We get healthy "Point and counter Point" views about any given topic, which has made I Forge Iron the high quality site that it is. Again, action speaks louder than words and you have spoke volumes by your actions and getting it done! I am sure we will see more about you and your work as time goes by! With my best! Ted Throckmorton

SamT Stress I am an old "has-been" who has reverted back to becoming a blacksmith wannbe. Age and associated health issues seem to do that to a person. But I still go out and pretend a little on the forge. I say that for the following reason. I found early on that when I was forging and working with steel (hot or cold) that if I did not pay attention to what I was doing something unwanted would happen. I found that the times that I have been burned, cut or dropped something was due directly on not focusing on what I was doing. Once I learned that if my mind wondered it may cause me to get hurt in some way, it changed my life in a positive way. I made a decision that I would make a personal rule to forget everything else in my life and just focus on what I was doing any time I was in the shop. So I begin to practice just focusing on what I was doing in the shop at the time and nothing else. That concept has been my personal secret on how to survive the craziness of this world for many years. I for the most part walk out of the shop with a clear un-stressed mind, a body that is tired, a sweaty head and body that is usually covered with products of carbon and grit. But none the less I accidently found a way to create a peaceful mind for myself. So when I say “Go for it and make the time in your shop count” it is because I believe it is good for you in many ways!! I wish you the very best. Ted Throckmorton

Nice, very Nice!!! People who start out with humble but effective means always gains my respect. Blacksmithing is all about inovation. And that is to get good at using what you have and never let anyone else limit your dreams and ability! Very nice start, and I expect that we will be seeing some nice work come from your shop! The best to you and Welcome To I Forge Iron!!! Ted Throckmorton

I second what Rich said! Nice, very nice. Welcome to I Forge Iron!

Good observation and consideration in this conversation! I would feel very insecure about using my main shop floor "Permanet" anvil or vice configuration if were able to move "At All" during use. I understand the necessity of having and using a portable (what we used to call floater anvils or Vices) and their reasonable and proper use. The old shops I worked in had a couple of floater anvils. Used mostly for Farrier work. But it is a different story when it comes to depending on my main shop vice and anvil that is supposed to be secured in some fashion. I do not want them to be able move an inch during rigorous use. In fact I want them to be so dependable that a tug boat could not move them! It is just a personal thing with me but I feel that it is very important. Now I got that off of my chest! Ironsmith, sounds like you are heading in the right direction. Just in case you may not have been, it is a good thing to have people on this site who are willing to advise you of something that needed to be said! Thank You Timothy!

Baker101z, I feel that I owe you an explanation. I sure enjoyed talking with you in the chat room. You are a true gentleman that carries a great and positive learning attitude. After talking with you, it made me wish I lived closer to you so I could share what I have and enjoy helping you get established with the basics of the craft. When I wrote my response, it by no means was to imply that you were doing something with any kind of a bad attitude or intent. I realized that you were not fully informed of the whole concept, and how something said or implied may have a lasting effect on a new person who is just getting started into the craft. My response was actually a knee jerk reaction to a concept. I do not, and have not ever claimed to be a highly skilled blacksmith. That is because I am not. But I have been at blacksmithing/welding for about 59 years and have supported my family with the craft full time at times as an occupation, and other times just as a secondary income! And now due to the years flying by so rapidly, I have worked myself right back to being a "Blacksmith Wannabe" It would be true for me to say that I feel that I know just enough to keep myself entertained. However, during this period of time I have either seen or heard of very bad things that have happened in blacksmith/welding shops. My mentors over the years gave me stern warnings about seemingly simple small things that may act like a snare trap later if a person was not made aware of them. I was an investigator for 36 years and have been exposed to all types of accidents. OSHA has also called on me many times to assist them with special types of accidents. The end result is that by being aware of those kinds of experiences for all of those years produced a strong subconscious attitude and priority of “Safety First” Always. I hope you would understand that over time we have had many people come onto the site and post information that would eventually lead un-experienced people into problems down the road if they listened to what was said. An un-experienced person does not know the difference. I hope this clarified why I may have seemed very opinionated in my post. Sometime it is difficult express in an appropriate manner about an issue that raises red flags of safety without discouraging a new blacksmith. I truly wish you the very best as you continue to follow the craft! Ted Throckmorton PS. Icb! Good on you.

Training Untrained Blacksmiths, by Untrained Blacksmiths. That somehow does not make sense to me, and never will. To re-teach a person who has been taught many bad habits and concepts about blacksmithing is very difficult. The solution is to be taught correctly right from the start. I used to say “Repetition is the Mother of Skill” and thought I had covered all bases. But as I was reading a post at one time when someone else was talking about how practice was important. Then Rich Hale (who is a person I respect and is a highly skilled craftsman) added something like this! “Perfect Practice” … Now I say that Perfect Practice and Repetition is the Mother of Skill. Rich emphasized how important it was to do it correctly every time because you are developing muscle memory and habit! Many people are un-aware of the fundamental training that is required to skillfully and safely apply the necessary skills of the blacksmith craft. A skilled blacksmith makes forging look easy because his steps have been previously measured and honed with countless hours of training and practice of how and when to apply each basic step in the order of operations to accomplish the desired outcome. I have often heard people express their reckless (dangerous) and untried opinion that blacksmithing is as simple as “Just Banging Steel”. For anyone who is un-skilled to teach or imply their knowledge is of benefit to other new people who are learning as well is a dangerous practice. It would be the same as a person who just graduated with a certificate in a basic course of First Aid to teach Brain Surgery or how to do a Lung Transplant. It is that far off in my opinion, and they usually do not understand why when you confront them. If you don’t know, you don’t know! It is said that it takes minutes to learn something, but a lifetime to master it. Little things mean a lot. When a person is being taught to be a blacksmith, the instructor takes care of the side issues until the student is capable of applying and integrating them safely along with the new skill they are learning. Being unaware of the totality of the concept especially safety issues is not an issue. That is until you impose it onto another unaware person. Until a person can safely identify the dangers of using certain steel material, safe use of tools, safe use of forges (gas and solid fuel), safe ventilation practices, how and when to use personal safety equipment, anvil etiquette, quenching of tube material, and manage many more skills and issues that are blacksmithing related, they should wait until they do before they teach it. My opinion is not meant to be mean spirited, but when safety is an issue I will speak out every time! – People count! I wish you the very best as you travel the road of Blacksmithing skills! Ted Throckmorton

There is a lot to consider when installing a chimney. Quick rule of thumb: 8 inch Diameter pipe would be the minimum I would ever go. And that is only if I had a straite shot up with no bends. And then I would want to extend it as high as I could above the pitch of the roof. As Jeremy suggested, use 10 inch or 12 inch diameter pipe for good flow. No bends allowed. I have seen all kinds of configurations of chiminey's. Some small diameter pipe with a couple of bends with a booster fan . . . . on and on! Most I would not trust! - - It can be deadly if you take a risk type of a short cut. I would error on the safe side everytime!!!! Hard to forge when you are dead! Here are some chimney installation considerations to think about. But your Local Codes will be the bottom line of how you should do it. Chimney Height First I suggest that you check your local codes. But the general rule of thumb found throughout the country at one time, as follows. Chimney height Rule: 10’-2’-3’ This information is from an old file what I had accumulated and used years ago when I was active, but I would bet it is still valid. The Factory-built fireplace manufacturers specify minimum and maximum chimney height. Woodstove manufacturers may have similar requirements. Both types of appliances and most codes require the 10 foot/2 foot/3 foot rule for minimum chimney height above the roof: The chimney must extend at least 2 feet above any portion of any structure within 10 feet (measured horizontally) AND must extend at least 3 feet above the highest point of its roof penetration. The height of the chimney must meet or exceed both of the minimum requirements. If manufacturer requirements exceed code minimum height requirements, they should be followed. These minimum heights may have to be exceeded, however, for adequate draft and satisfactory performance. Additional height can help improve draft and may make the difference in marginal situations. It will not, however, cure severe draft problems. There are two situations that call for specific attention to chimney height: Heated portion of the structure above the top of the chimney: the structure can act like a chimney and compete for the air supply. This action, called structure stack effect, can result in weakened draft or even smoke spillage into the structure. High altitude: Your forge may need stronger draft to deliver a greater volume of air at higher altitudes to make up for the lower concentration of oxygen. Recommended sea level chimney height may need to be increased by 2-3% per 1000 feet of elevation. In general, a minimum venting system height (chimney or for some woodstoves, chimney + connector) of 15 feet is recommended. It should be noted carefully, however, that too tall a system can cause over-drafting problems for wood stoves, but would most likely be desirable for most coal/coke forges. This issue seems simple, and maybe it is to a person who is well informed - - - So please study and be fully informed as you procced.!

There is some very good posts about touch marks. Just type in "Touch Marks" in the Search box at the right side top of the page. Here is an example: http://www.iforgeiro...__1#entry211179

There is a lot to consider when installing a chimney. Quick rule of thumb: 8 inch Diameter pipe would be the minimum I would ever go. And that is only if I had a straite shot up with no bends. And then I would want to extend it as high as I could above the pitch of the roof. As Jeremy suggested, use 10 inch or 12 inch diameter pipe for good flow. No bends allowed. I have seen all kinds of configurations of chiminey's. Some small diameter pipe with a couple of bends with a booster fan . . . . on and on! Most I would not trust! - - It can be deadly if you take a risk type of a short cut. I would error on the safe side everytime!!!! Hard to forge when you are dead! Here are some chimney installation considerations to think about. But your Local Codes will be the bottom line of how you should do it. Chimney Height First I suggest that you check your local codes. But the general rule of thumb found throughout the country at one time, as follows. Chimney height Rule: 10’-2’-3’ This information is from an old file what I had accumulated and used years ago when I was active, but I would bet it is still valid. The Factory-built fireplace manufacturers specify minimum and maximum chimney height. Woodstove manufacturers may have similar requirements. Both types of appliances and most codes require the 10 foot/2 foot/3 foot rule for minimum chimney height above the roof: The chimney must extend at least 2 feet above any portion of any structure within 10 feet (measured horizontally) AND must extend at least 3 feet above the highest point of its roof penetration. The height of the chimney must meet or exceed both of the minimum requirements. If manufacturer requirements exceed code minimum height requirements, they should be followed. These minimum heights may have to be exceeded, however, for adequate draft and satisfactory performance. Additional height can help improve draft and may make the difference in marginal situations. It will not, however, cure severe draft problems. There are two situations that call for specific attention to chimney height: Heated portion of the structure above the top of the chimney: the structure can act like a chimney and compete for the air supply. This action, called structure stack effect, can result in weakened draft or even smoke spillage into the structure. High altitude: Your forge may need stronger draft to deliver a greater volume of air at higher altitudes to make up for the lower concentration of oxygen. Recommended sea level chimney height may need to be increased by 2-3% per 1000 feet of elevation. In general, a minimum venting system height (chimney or for some woodstoves, chimney + connector) of 15 feet is recommended. It should be noted carefully, however, that too tall a system can cause over-drafting problems for wood stoves, but would most likely be desirable for most coal/coke forges. This issue seems simple, and maybe it is to a person who is well informed - - - So please study and be fully informed as you procced.!

Joshua, My home shop was out in the open for many years when I was younger. I had a small storage shed. I stored everything I needed inside the shed. Then pulled it out when I used it. I had a steel table, and an anvil on a stump that I covered with a canvas cover. I would bring out water in a bucket if needed. Many times the snow was so deep that I used the snow to quench. It worked well for me for many years,

Don, Now that is what I am talking about. Foundational blacksmithing. Good on ya! Please show us your other work products as you create them. .

Grant Sarver I was caught off guard and taken aback to the point of not believing what I had just read. I had to go back over and re-read what had been said, and then carefully check the site to make sure it was the same person we all know! I have finally accepted what I had read. But was curious about the great sense of loss I felt for a man who I have never met in person. After pondering this thought for some time, I realized that it is said; you will know a good tree by the fruit it bears. Grant bore good fruit of the blacksmith kind! Grant is (still is) one of several blacksmiths who are a foundation of knowledge that we depend on for council that supports this fine craft. The reason I say “still is”: Grant is only a thought away! Although we may not be able to correspond directly with Grant, we are able to receive the benefit of his knowledge through his writing, teaching, and wisdom that he imparted to others who will hopefully pass it down to others. As you use tools that Grant made, let it remind you of quality and steadfastness of purpose. Then strive to equal or better the bar of excellence he has established. Bottom line; Please continue to “Pass It Down”. If WE do this, his efforts to raise the bar of excellence of the blacksmithing craft to a higher level will have not gone in vein. Grants obvious strength of character and knowledge spoke for its self. Many times our work product will speak for us. Strive to make your work product say something nice and with quality. To all of you who may read this, I give you my condolences because I know you care. And to Grants family, I also give my condolences and prayer’s for your peace during this sudden transition. Ted Throckmorton

Drewed has a good point! When using very small stock, consider making a steel box (Hot Box) that is about 3" high x 3" deep X 5 or 6" wide, with one long side open. Use at least 1/4" stock thickness. Keep the (hot) box in the forge and place your small stock you are forging in the box. Your small stock will be heated through the process induction and it keeps it from burning. It also makes them easily accessible espeshilly in a Coal of Coke forge.

Fredrick’s Cross Apportionment. Beauty is in the EYE of the beholder! This is just my approach, very un-official Here is an I Forge Iron thread with some information http://www.iforgeiro...edericks-cross/ Scroll down to jimbob’s post. He said:” the proportions work out to be for the short leg 1 and the long leg 1 3/4 of whatever stock you use... “ I do not know if that would be correct for, but it should be considered. In the end it will be what pleases YOUR EYE’S! How the cross is to be displayed has a lot to do with how much material (Stock) to use. Again, what looks good to your eye will have a lot to do with it also. The length of the vertical cut from the bottom of the cross member may vary. And that is due to how the cross will be displayed. Example: If it is to be a self standing Cross, then you would most likely have to factor adding in enough stock (material) to form the base of your design. If it is hung from a necklace, it would not necessarily have additional stock on the bottom end to form a base to be self standing. Another example; Bill Epps made one out of ½ inch square stock. He made his cuts down 1 inch and then 3 inches When completed he had a thicker stock at the bottom of the base of the cross. It will come down to what you like. I would suggest you make a sketch and or then use CLAY to help you determine what dimensions would be pleasing to YOUR eye, and then go for it! Enjoy!

Brian, Because you have exposed and committed yourself to make a living in a new geographic area, now would not be the time for people who care that you will be successful to hold back on suggestions that may help you run, skip, hop, walk, and if necessary to crawl over the hump of success. I believe if you win, we all win. So without worrying about if any of my suggestions sound corny or trite, I will give you my ideas of how to stimulate the area as to let them know about you and your business. I am aware of the nature of the area (Rural / Horse country) you live in pretty well. I will give you my ideas about how you may put yourself on the map so you would be known by the Equestrian community. You must turn into a business man. Think business, do business. You have got to beat your own drum at first. As people see what you can do, then they will beat the drum for you. There are many horses, and people who love their horses out where you live now. I also know there are many farriers in that area also. Some that are well known and have established them self’s with the bulk of the market in your area. That aspect of the Equestrian business I would leave to them. To get some immediate exposure into the horse people crowd (equestrians), try to find a “Barn Hardware” job as soon as you can. It worked for me. I did a small job on a barn. Other horse people seen it and liked it. First thing I knew I was in enough demand that I realized I had learned how to open that door. But my old body was not willing and I had to turn down work. Once you get started with your foot in the door, first thing you know builders, and architects will be at your door wanting you to do work in homes. That was my experence in "MY Day" Make sure you make and keep organized and accurate notes coupled with templates of everything you do. Consider making jigs as you go so that it will help speed up production and uniformity! Photograph your work for show and tell for new customers. In time, time will be your enemy or your friend, depends on how you prepare and use it. Once the door is opened by quality work it tends to generate more work by its self. We have had blacksmiths from out here offered jobs in that area. One job I knew of would have taken two blacksmiths over a year to complete working full time. Problem was the distance they would have to travel to get there over Daniels Canyon in the winter. I would suggest that you also do some welding as an aspect of your business. Many customers I used to have felt comfortable asking me to do a small welding job for them once in a while. I believe it is good customer relations, especially in the small area where you now live. Well I got that off of my chest, so now I will turn in! I wish you the best of luck, and I have no doubt that you will find your nitch! If you do find a nitch, take plenty of vitamins “B” and “C”. Ted Throckmorton Duchesne Utah

Harold ~ Thank you for all of your effort to help us!

Tagg, Good Start! The people I admire most are the people who have very little to start with and make do with what they have as they grow. I would suggest that you just work at collecting your tools slow but sure. First thing you know you will have a first class shop! I enjoyed talking with you in the chat room the other night! One other thing! " Please Work safe'. Keep your mind on what you are doing at all times. Think about all of the possibilities of what your doing and what could go wrong and then take steps to avoid a mishaps. I think it would be hard to see out of a wooden eye! I wish you the very best!! Ted Throckmorton

You are in LUCK There are many threads made about making or buying a TouchMark. Go to the Search box in the upper right had corner of the page and type in "TOUCH MARK". Then scroll down a bit and you ill hit paydirt! Although there is a lot of choices and good information contained in these threads, the one that stood out for me was posted by SMITHY1. Here is a URL containing his post. Again scroll down to his post if you are interested. http://www.iforgeiro...__1#entry127651 I hope this will get you what you are asking for. I wish the very best to you. Ted Throckmorton