DC712001 Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 I went to a local metals supplier/service-center that also sells to the general public. I asked their price on large-diameter (10 to 12-inch) steel pipe. It was over $120 per foot. Granted, 12-inch pipe is 0.406 wall thickness and weighs 54-lbs per foot, but still. Is there any good source for used or scrap large-diameter steel pipe, and if so, where is a good place to look? Similar situation on heavy-plate. Any good source on 3, 4, 5-inch steel plate? I was also trying to find used railroad rails? Where is it available/sold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgtwister Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 for the pipe i would check around were there my be building large industrail buildings or cheack with any companys that do pipe fitting or if you see guys that are working on pipe work they may have some scrap pieces you could throw them a few bucks for it my friends in the pipe fitters union and he can get me pipe here and there when i need it so if you know any one in the union you could ask them for plate i would check scrap yards that take equtiment like fork lifts the forks at the base are about 2-4 inches depends on the size of the forks and for rail theres a guy on ebay that sells it but i have some i have had for years if you know some one that works for a rail road they my have some one they know there and may have a pieace laying around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.C.Edmondson Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Get out to your junk yard and I am positive you will find everything you are looking for. I make trips out to my local junk yard a couple of times a month and I always find something interesting. I am sure you will be able to find some of what your looking for, Godbless and Good luck! Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Do you need that wall thickness? If not you will get scarp when they are demolishing buildings and removing forced air ventilation systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 If your looking for a "tube" to use a forge body an air tank from sears or Harbor freight will usually only set you back $25 and all you'll have to do is slice one end off and you'll end up with your forge body and door. It'll already have a carry handle and legs. New metal paint cans are $5 at paint supply stores check your yellow pages. There was an ad recently in the tailgating section a guy was selling railroad track by the foot. Check with your metal supplier about buying a 8" solid round 2ft chunk. that would make a nice anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 (edited) For heavier "pipe". Our group once went down to the company that hydrotests high pressure gas bottles (O2, N2, AR, CO2, He,...) and was able to work a deal to get ones that fialed test and so were scrapped out. We did have to cut them up on site; but they provided us with the gas even and all we had to do was bring the cutting torch! For lighter pipe Grain auger piping was used and I have seen gas forges built from large popcorn tins before. A party store may have non refillable low pressure He bottles The local habitat for humanity has 10" dia spirial galvanized vent pipe; I bought two 10' long sections for US$4 a piece; they have a couple of pieces of stainless steel pipe 10" dia and larger for $10 a piece. I would assume that CA would be a hard place to get into scrap yards and prowl so it may be hard to find heavy steel---check out the building demolition yards though as they may pull some nice stuff from time to time. Edited October 8, 2008 by ThomasPowers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcraigl Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Derek, For the pipe, you might also contact a water well drilling company. They often use pipe in the sizes you listed for well casing and it's usually quite a bit thinner walled aroujnd 1/8 to 3/16. They may have some cutoffs or a bent peice. If a 20' piece is bent much at all it's useless as well casing, but in a 2' section you'd not even notice the bend. ML Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC712001 Posted October 8, 2008 Author Share Posted October 8, 2008 Wow!!! Appreciate all the replies and suggestions. Lots of great ideas. Thanks Again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucegodlesky Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Heck, Sweany built one from an old toolbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 ammo cans, mailboxes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 If you your just looking for large, round, hollow metal objects don't forget water heaters. Gas fired are thicker walled then electric ones which get pretty thin because they are deep drawn and connected in the middle, so if you looking for a thicker gauge get the gas ones. The only problem with water heaters for pipe use is that they are glass lined but they do make nice little forges or melting furnaces.:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 What are you looking to make with it Derek? It makes a LOT of difference. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC712001 Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 (edited) I was looking for a large tube/pipe for making a forge. (BTW: I bought a 10-gallon Air Tank today at Lowes, so that problem , for now, is solved, Thanks.) In addition, I need 12-inch diameter, thick-walled (read 1/4-inch) pipe to make four steel cart wheels for an old 1924 Fairbanks-Morse stationary engine. As for the Heavy Plate, well, I've been trying to find an Anvil at a reasonable price ($200 or under) and locally (within 50 - 75 miles) as the shipping costs could add another $100 or more, so I need to pick it up in person. In the interim, some heavy plate would need to suffice. Supposedly an antique shop 20-minutes away has a piece of RR Rail converted to an anvil. I think plate might be better. A couple local antique shops are keeping a lookout for me (anvil), but who knows how that will work out? I had a strange experience the other day at a third antique shop. Saw this 55-Lb, "China" anvil with some wear, painted black, a little rust, on a stump. It looked strangely familiar. The price was $50. After leaving the shop, I drove to Harbor Freight Tools. As I stood there gazing at the HF C.I. Anvil (that looked to be the same item,) a guy walked up and was checking the price of the anvil. I mentioned that a "real" blacksmith wouldn't be all that interested in an HFT C.I. anvil, as they wear quickly, break easily, poor rebound, etc. He said he buys these anvils when they are on "sale," four times a year, at 45% off (or $29,) which they weren't that day (regular $54.) He then said he buy's 'em cheap, paints them black, beats them up/ages them a bit, then displays/sells them at a local antique shop. He went on to describe the scene (wagon wheel, stump, blacksmith tools, etc) that I had just experienced fifteen minutes earlier. Had I shown up there (HFT) five minutes before or after, I never would have met him or heard his story. He said that people just buy them to display, and not really use. Buyer beware. Edited October 9, 2008 by DerekC added info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 (edited) Sounds like you have the forge shell covered. RR rail isn't a must for an anvil, literally any heavy piece of steel will work. Look around for a heavy equipment repair shop and ask if you can look in their scrap bin. Be sure to tell them what you want it for and you'll be surprised how cooperative guys will become. Especially if you show up just before go to work time with a box of donuts. I have a couple "real" anvils, a rail anvil and still use one of the odd shaped pieces of steel I salvaged out of the scrap bin at work. If you can find a length of 3-4" bar, sq or rd. it'll make a dandy anvil stood on end. A Cat axle stood on end flange up is a KILLER anvil. Ripper tooth makes a good one, as does a ripper draw bar or hitch. A big dozer pintle hitch ring is one outstanding forge on it thing. It has all kinds of good shapes to work off. A RR car hitch is another super, field expedient anvil. If you can find a train axle you have it made in the shade. A train wheel is really unwieldy for an anvil but it'll work. It doesn't need a large flat face, a flat spot a little larger than your hammer's face will do. It doesn't need a horn, you can improvise one with almost any piece of round steel like an axle spindle. It doesn't have to look anything like a "real" anvil. Heck, an ASO is better than a wish to forge on and if you catch HF on sale $29 ain't a bad deal at all. Just remember to keep the iron HOT and don't hit the ASO with your hammer and it'll last quite a while. Frosty Edited October 9, 2008 by Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateDJ Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Heck, an ASO is better than a wish to forge on and if you catch HF on sale $29 ain't a bad deal at all. Just remember to keep the iron HOT and don't hit the ASO with your hammer and it'll last quite a while. Frosty My boys are using one of these with a piece of forklift fork welded to the face of it. It works better than it did originally but the anvil was still way to light at ~60# so we welded it to a A shaped piece of I-Beam from a trailer house frame. This helped keep it from walking around while you hit it but the noise is Horrific! It is not much of a ring it is more of an ear piercing clang with lots of odd harmonics that just sounds like a train wreck with each hammer blow. I am looking into a better anvil for them! Long story short... don't weld your ASO to the stand LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Try setting your "A" frame stand in sand and maybe wrapping some chain, cable, bungees, rope, even an old blanket around it to help dampen the clang. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Places like Boulevard Sales, 7205 Washington Blvd, Elkridge, Md 21075 is where I have purchased "drops" from large pieces of pipe. Your other, possibly easier, option is to forge the 12-inch diameter band from a piece of 1/4-inch flat stock. It would take me less time to forge the bands than to acquire the pipe, cut pieces from it with a torch, and finish grind the edges. In addition, I need 12-inch diameter, thick-walled (read 1/4-inch) pipe to make four steel cart wheels for an old 1924 Fairbanks-Morse stationary engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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