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where to buy a good belt grinder?


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I'm a young smith starting out and want to buy a cheap but usable belt grinder, and I don't know where to look, also, I have a very low budget, which kinda stinks. Should I just wait until I have enough money to buy a really good one?

(p.s i have used a belt grinder before but want my own)

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So, what realistically, is your budget? You can get a reasonably good grinder on Amazon for under $700~$1200. Mine is on the bottom end without out a VFD and it does fine. I would love to have one with a VFD and more attachment options, but this does what I need for the time being. What you need to what out for is the cost of belts, they are consumable items…

Keep it fun,

David

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GTF, I have used a 1x42 belt grinder for years and while it is nowhere as good as a 2x72 it does get the job done.  I am hoping to upgrade fairly soon and am following the responses to you query.  I do think that a 1x30 would be too small.

There are plenty of 2x72 kits out there for less than a plug and play model but you need to decide if you have the skill and the time to get into building your own.  I probably will not because that sort of thing is not really in my skill set and I'd rather be smithing than building tools that I can (probably) afford.

IMO it is false econmy to buy cheap belts.  You end up spending more in the long run because any given belt does not last as long.  Also, stay with ceramic or zirconia grit for grinding steel.  Aluminum oxide grit is better for soft metals and wood but wears out pretty fast on steel.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Also, if you keep your eyes open, you can get some surprisingly good deals. I picked up a 2x90 grinder from my favorite industrial surplus place for under $50, and while getting belts can be a bit of a pain, it has more than paid for itself in saving time and aggravation.

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For $50 it MIGHT be worth modifying it to use a more common belt size. Two of the local hardware stores carry 2" x 72" belts on the shelf but I've never seen a 2" x 75". Of course you can glue belts up as you need them like John does and over the life of the grinder or your desire to use it come out ahead. Of course you have to buy a roll of abrasive belt in each grit you wish to use.

If your fab skills are up to it I made mine for about $200 as part of a club grinder clinic. Without the bulk discount it would've probably run closer to $400. It doesn't have a speed control at all though I keep telling myself I'm going to make a jack shaft with step pullies but haven't really needed it.

About the motor though, those get expensive. I tried salvaging one out of a treadmill the folks selling at a yard sale gave me after 2 days without an offer. Unfortunately the controls were too complicated for me to figure out let alone use. Hot tubs on the other hand typically have 3+hp 220v ac motors and people are looking to get rid of them all over the place. Like we were, we really enjoyed ours on the upper N facing deck but hadn't used it in years so I pulled the motor and tossed the carcass off the deck.

Before I could figure out how to mount and wire it A friend gave me the motor out of one that'd been dumped in his cul-de-sac.  Next thing I knew I picked up a box of hot tub motors at another yard sale as a "we're sick and tired of doing this, take everything or nothing" deal. I must have 10 or so and still no VFD.

You can do this on the cheap BUT I'd really rather have spent the (at the time) $1,500 - $2,000 for a commercially made one and NOT needed to tweak it every once in a while.

Still mine does the job okay.

The rule to remember for equipment acquisition is just like the one you see on walls everywhere. "We do 3 kinds of work, Good, Fast, Cheap. Pick two."

If you want a good one now it's going to cost. If you want a cheap one now it'll maybe do the job. If you want a good one for a budget price it'll take longer, maybe much longer. Deals are out there but when is iffy.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Do you have an image of the grizzly 2x75? They have a couple different styles listed on their site. One or two of them look like they would work, but may be under powered. The others I wouldn’t mess with… They also listed the belt size as adjustable from 2x72 to 2x79, on at least one model.

Keep it fun,

David

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1 hour ago, Frosty said:

Of course you have to buy a roll of abrasive belt in each grit you wish to use.

Or buy oversize belts and cut them down. Not an economical alternative in general, but workable if your favorite industrial surplus place happens to have them in stock at the same time they're running a sale.

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What's the HP of the motor? My old Black and Decker 2" x 48" could be stalled with any but light pressure on the belt and it isn't a el'cheapo' belt grinder, it's about 40 years old and going strong. Well, strong as it is that is.

Frosty The Lucy.

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I think you can probably learn something via comparing the specs on those two models. Frankly I'd pass on the H7760 as to me it looks like a very lightweight & under powered tool. Since you mention that you've used a belt grinder before, maybe compare these with the one you've used, how do they stack up? Keep an eye on craigslist or similar for the heavier more powerful industrial grinders. Or, perhaps Frosty may be able to share some notes, plans or pointers from the club clinic he mentions? Then you might just be on the lookout for parts & have the potential satisfaction of a better tool due to your own time and effort. The old term for it is "sweat equity".

I am by no means an expert, but would comment that similar to the difference between forging mild steels and either high carbon or alloy steels, the effort to grind goes up as you work harder material. The big grinders have lots of power so that they can withstand lots of pressure so that the abrasives are cutting rather than just rubbing—think of forcing the stock into the grit (or tooth) of the belt to visualize cutting. Rubbing just heats up the belt and quickly dulls it.

--Larry

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The other thing to remember is that most of the modern ceramic belts need fairly high pressure to stay sharp. As the ceramic dulls, the high pressure causes fractures creating new sharp edges to cut with.

If the pictured grinder was available for $50, that would probably be a good starting point. Not as flexible as the “modern” knife maker type grinders, but you could get a lot of work/learning done with it.
 

Keep it fun,

David

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1 hour ago, GhostTownForge said:

its the G1015

i noticed they had the H7760 for only $80, is that a good option?

The only time I would recommend the H7760 is if it's a choice between THAT grinder and NO grinder. It's better than nothing, and will help you get more done until such time as you can afford the G1015.

If you have the money, get the G1015. It's definitely a better machine.

Interestingly, the belt speed on both machines is the same, about 3600 feet per minute. However, the G1015 has a 1 HP motor running at 1725 RPM to drive an 8" wheel, and the H7760 has a 1/2" HP motor running at 3250 RPM to drive a 4" wheel. If you calculate the torque for each grinder's motor and divide it by the radius of its drive wheel, you'll find that the force output of the G1015 is twice that of the H7760, which means that the former is much less likely to stall out under a heavy grinding load.

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Walter Sorrells has an interesting video review of the $250 1x42 belt grinder/6" disc sander from Bucktool. His take is that it's far superior to the Harbor Freight 1x30, and for 1/10 the price of a professional machine, it's a respectable entry-level belt grinder.

 

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