Jimw3326

I just answered you on the blade forum. Haha! Brushes probably.

I've been contemplating their surface grinder attachment.

Those links would knock the door down! Haha

Never saw the sense in paying someone to allow me to lift their steel when I got paid to do it all day.

My journey isn't as elegant as y'all's. Started working in my dad's business at 13 sweeping and counting out nuts and bolts from bulk boxes into 100 lots. A Navy vet would teach me how to weld during down time. A few years later we started up a fab division to compliment the main business that I ran. A few decades later I came across FiF and it really appealed to me. Signed up here in '16 and did a ton of reading and u-tubes, built a forge and started the therapy. Now I'm in the process of setting up my shop to utilize some of the equipment that I've acquired to take the load off my ageing hands.

Got my Christmas present hooked up and running. OBM Dominator 2 X 72 w/ 2hp VFD. Had to do a little rewiring of the shop to get the 220 needed.

Just go with welding the end of the cable, saying tack is confusing the issue. Look up welding in your area and give them a call.

I would suggest you keep an eye out for a truck with a welder on the back of it. Kindly ask if he is available to do some quick work and what he would charge per hour. Ask if he would be willing to fuse the ends of the cable and negotiate a fair price. The more pieces of cable you have, the cheaper each one will be. Other than that, search out a welding shop.

Except the industry has loosened up on some of the definitions. MIG is a catch-all for wire electrode. Then you get to the type of wire, inner-shield, dual shield. I personally use straight CO2 for hard wire and dual shield at home, but at work we use an argon/CO2 mix with a different wire designed for mix gas. As far as what the OP is asking, a 110 inner-shield welder will do him just fine, but a little buzz box stick welder may work better since it may be less expensive and fewer parts required. Cable and a clamp vs whip, nozzle, diffuser, tip, drive rolls. JMHO

This explains a few things, I wasn't aware of this.

Thought I'd make some dies for the ironworker.

I have an old craftsman 4" with disc that I did my first work on that I'll let you have for 5 bucks. If you're interested, I'll get you some more info. Since we live in the same town, shipping will be cheap.

I've been using the Tapmatic Edge lube for all my machining and such. It makes my carbide bits last about 4 times longer than any oil except a flood system. Since I don't have an enclosed machine, the wax is perfect. Tapping is a breeze, drilling is smooth and leaves a better finish inside.

With this in mind, This would avoid any issues. And since it would be a door of sorts, a tarp would be adequate unless you're wanting long term survivability.

This only works if you adhere to the duty cycle by watching the watch. The new welders have a cutoff when you get it to hot, but the old welders just start burning varnish. Ask me how I know.

Nope, tail barb and divot go under the cap.

Another way is to hang it between your fingers and tap it with a hammer. A ring is fine, a thunk, not so much.

I'd put a step on the floor for the one on the left. Cut the wool in half and double the floor thickness with the second layer inside the dome. That should take care of any leaks.

Made this for my daughter who was big into GoT.

You mentioned a respirator and a beard. Unless your respirator is of a PAPR style I doubt it is doing much good and the fumes will be filtered through your beard, path of least resistance.

As said before, not really Viking, did this a few years ago.

40" may be a little low. I'm 5-8 and my ironworker is at 46" and it would be a little more comfortable at 48. Also, I don't think you'll want to get to close to the dies with a hot piece of metal.

I think you'll have to go to a CC to find metal 1 anymore. I haven't heard of any trade classes in HS for years unless it's very rural. One off and prototypes are necessarily going to be expensive.

That's a brilliant idea!

Technically, yes. The stamps are all the same width so when stacked, the space between the letters is different depending on the letter. The biggest culprit is the letter 'I' and number '1'. You want the space between the letters the same, so the stamps need to be ground to achieve this.