Hammer technique critique

[BayardStrachan]

Hello 

I did my longest forging session to date today, about 2 hours. I was mostly using a 3lb hammer as I was making tongs and drawing the reigns out. I found my wrist and elbow getting quite sore, I don't know if this was just because my muscles aren't used to it yet, but I would appreciate it if someone could let me know if I am hammering wrong, thanks. 

 

 

[bigfootnampa]

You are using too big of a hammer for you!  Hammering too fast and not hitting with power.  Your hammer shape seems poor.  Your placement of strikes is not good.  You would do better with a two pound hammer.  A straight peen or cross peen should do most of your work.  You also need to develop skill at using the edges of your hammer.  

You have lots to learn... some coaching would help.  Try to watch lots of videos and to watch skilled smith’s in person when you can.  I like a two or two and a half pound hammer for most work.  I’m built a little stouter than you.  Choking up on your hammer is poor form when you are trying to move metal quickly.  Figure out where you want to make a strike... then BRING IT! Your doing the typical beginners whackity whack.  Skilled smiths have rhythms more like thumpa thump WHOOMP, thumpa WHOOMP WHOOMP!  

[Frosty]

That's a big 2x for too large a hammer and need for better technique! Happily you aren't moving the work all over the place and chasing it with the hammer, that is a good sign, sometimes it takes a lot of coaching to get people to strike in one place. Your blow rhythm still sucks, slow DOWN.

I start people with a 2lb. drill hammer. They are more than heavy enough to move metal well and the shorter handle improves accuracy and are less fatiguing doing less soft tissue damage. 

If you're working until you're hurting you are working WAY too long! Learn to tell when you're getting tired and take breaks, frequent breaks! If your forearm is sore lighten up on the grip, you want the hammer to rest lightly in your hand. I let my hammer pivot between my thumb and 1st. finger and only close my grip at the moment of impact and let the rebound pivot the hammer handle back away from my palm. It takes practice to become accurate but I can strike harder and take zero impact shock in my joints. I put tapered slab handles in my hammers as the old ones wear out or I get the bug. 

Anyway, Lighter hammer, slow down, hit harder and lighten up on the grip.

More later.

Frosty The Lucky.

[BayardStrachan]

Thanks muchly for the help, I've ordered a 2lb ballpoint hammer so hopefully it'll be here soon 

[anvil]

Also it appears you have a death grip on the handle. This will often make you use too much wrist and elbow which is why you have a sore wrist and elbow. Loosen your grip and let the hammer kinda float between pointer finger and thumb and the rest of your fingers give it a little stability. 

Also a hammer blow is a full body movement and, exaggerated a bit, use every joint from your toes to the hammer. 

[Charles R. Stevens]

I am a farrier, so not everyone will agree with me, but…

If you cradle the hammer head in your hand, fingers bent square to your palm, the handle should reach the inside of your elbow. You can always chock up on a long handle. Second, the handle should not be to fat. Your fingers should almost touch griping the handle. In my case mine are shaved to about an inch buy inch and quarter rounded of rectangles. Similar to the handles frosty makes from five quarter hickory. 
to fat of a handle requires a death grip. I use what has Jenn called a sword grip, as most of the grip in your hand is from your pinky, I grip progressively less as each finger up to the thumb and index. I also lay the handle from the palm (where the lines meet at the wrist.) to the where I pinch it between my bent index finger and thumb.  Now for heavy blows stand up bent over just enough to place your eyes over the stock. Bend your knees if the anvil is low, cock your wrist to bring the handle vertical and the head horizontal. Now lift the hammer over your head (arm pointing strait up like Thor) now pick a target on the anvil and move the steel under the hammer. When you swing you will straitened your wrist and pull your elbow back as you do. This gives you the maximum power and control. Use the whole handle. Lifting the head up reduces the leverage of the hammer. 

[anvil]

Pretty much nailed it.  I too like a long handle and thin out the handle.

[Charles R. Stevens]

Dad watches forged in fire reruns, the episode withe a farrier squared off with other metal workers shows just how much steel you can move with a 2# hammer and proper technique. 

[natkova]

I think heavier the hammmer is you more need this technique "empty blows" and i see you grab hammers too hard, need to hold it a litle lighter.

Don't too light that it can't get out of hand but don't gripp to much on it.

 

 

[Charles R. Stevens]

Ah come on! Nothing like having the hammer fly across the shop! 

[wicon]

Hammer flying around in a public demo?

[Charles R. Stevens]

That is one way to discourage hecklers…