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Cutting hard firebrick today, I hope


Fly

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I ordered some hard firebrick & got it Wednesday but have a problem,  there to thick. There 2 1/2 inch instead of 1 1/4, great.

I ordered diamond saw blade for my table saw to cut them into. I plan to soak them in water & then try cutting them in half. This 

is a cheaper blade from Amazon but had really good reviews so I,m hoping in works. I,m sure if I was doing a bigger job I would 

need a higher priced blade, so I shall see. My biggest problem is my table top saw is only a 10 inch. These bricks are 4 1/2 wide. 
 

I plan putting them on there side & cutting them long ways, then flipping them over then cutting them from the opposite side 

long ways. The problem is even though it is a 10 inch blade it only sticks up from the saw is 1 1/2 inch. So even if I cut from opposing 

sides I will still have 1 1/2 left to cut from the center of-the bricks. Any ideas from you guy. Do you think I could score them with a 

thin blade of some kind like a-paint scraper threw the saw cut or something similar  as to get them to brake apart
 

    Fly

 

 

 

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Well I do not have a sawzall, funny I have every other type. though. But I think I have a friend that may & if. He does I will see if he

may lend it to me & go by  that blade . Thanks great idea!   Fly 

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I have cut regular bricks by cutting them in from both sides and they break cleanish. Sometimes from one side as well. Bit that is common red brick (boerke in my country). 

There is a trick of breaking brick stones with the trowel. I can't but the guys building my walls did it with the boerkes, the ones with 3 holes or the massive ones. The bigger ones with holes in (speedstones, snelbouwers ??) Is done with grinder. To many holes inside for a clean break.

With firebrick i would cut it from both sides as deep as possible and than break. If it needs to be flat, a grinder (again normal stone, i used a dry diamont cutoff wheel on my grinder and used the same wheel for smoothing it out). With dry cutting, be aware of the dust.

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They sent you full brick instead of split brick? Send it back and make THEM eat the cost. Or did you use language that can be confusing? Mistakes like this is why using the right jargon is so important, describing what you mean instead of using the recognized terminology is always high risk.

Your table saw doesn't adjust for more blade exposure than 1 1/2"? Mine only uses a 9" blade and has a 3" max exposure.

Try tapping wood wedges in one cut and giving the brick a rap with a hammer, it should snap easily in the cut.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Steve I do not have a chop saw, but I do have metal cutting carbide tip saw works like a chop saw but runs at 

a slower rpm. I thought of trying that but the blades are like $70. I was scared to chance that. But you just gave me 

a idea. I could put this 10 inch blade diamond blade on it & try that. That’s why I love this form. Many heads are better than 

one. I,m going out there & try that. I will be back to you. I know this thread will help someone else in the future. 
 

       Thank you fellows Fly

 

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Frosty the thing is if I can cut these I have twice as many, (wink):D.   Ya they did not advertise them in the description  and I did

not catch that. I,m about to eat a late breakfast they going out there & try this.  :rolleyes: Fly

 

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Heck, use a carbide veneer blade and feed it slowly. Be aware that cutting masonry in a table saw WILL wear the motor right out unless it's a fan cooled ventless motor. (I can never remember the proper term. Guys?):)

Frosty The Lucky.

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I got it! Thank every one of you. I did a search on my saw. My saw does indeed have a much shallow cut than most 

10 inch saws. But I messed with it some more & got just enough to get it done. Things I learned though. Be sure & soak 

you bricks in water. It will help keep it cooler. And as you said Frosty take it slow. Cut a little way and pull it out, then go 

a little more and let the blade do the cutting with out pushing hard. When it starts to get a little harder pull it back out. 
 

let it clear the degree. If not your blade will try to walk on you. I had one do that but caught it in time to save that one. 
 

The blade I have is thin so I had to take my time. I hope this thread helps some one else. This is a great form with alot

of good people that are willing to help each other. This form is so much better than trying to learn from YouTube. You can 

get some very bad advice from them. Don,t get me wrong there is a lot of good there also, you just need do more research 

than take a video at face value right off. Here you have people that have forgotten more than most will ever know about 

blacksmithing. Listion  to them, & if some one is a little bit off on a topic some other will correct them. That’s what I love 

about the folks here. Thank each of you for the advice you give. I just hope I can help some also, when I can.  Fly:rolleyes:


 

 

 

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Thank you Charles I think I remember reading that but not sure I would have remembered it. Lucky I still have 

much more to do on mine. I may put them in the wife’s oven on very low temp over night after she goes to 

bed. You don,t mind if I blame it on you, do you?:lol: Fly

 

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Believe it or not we treasure good questions, it makes us think about why the heck we do a thing that way for maybe decades. Explaining something make us examine what and why we do a thing. Then you get several others explaining why they do it differently.  Everybody wins.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yeah, It goes off in my mind like a light bulb when I see it but remember when I need it . . . ? Aphasia is my world. I gotta write it down but doubt where I did next time I need it. Thanks Thomas.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I was hunting TEFC motors at the scrap yard for my shop equipment as a blacksmith shop is rather known for having "dirty air"...  Currently 1.75 hp TEFC for my 25# LG running on 220 and the 2hp TEFC mounted on my Bader on 220.  My 2hp on my drill press is open though, I put it in the "clean shop". (On 220 of course.)

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