New member after reading a bunch of threads.

[OuchThatsHot]

I’m not sure the hobby is for me but I’ve kind of jumped in. This is going to be a test to see if my shoulder will allow the hammer swinging. Old codger with Rotator issues.
Got a cheap forge after seeing a few YouTube reviews. Followed the forge instructions to get it ready and a have piece of rail to beat on. Also bought some pre cut tongs to build my tools and learn basic techniques.

I had picked up enough parts to make (3) Frosty T burners, and have an empty propane tank to make a proper forge in 2022 if all goes well.

This weekend I got the initial firing of the forge done. Still has trapped moisture in the blanket since I can hear moisture crackling/boiling off and some water weeped out between the spot welded seam.

My phone didn’t capture the blue flame from the burner in this pic but it warmed up well past my infrared laser 999F limit within a short run time on the 4th heat cycle - cool down . My refractory has a number of hairline cracks. Satanite is the refractory that came in the kit. I rigidized the blanket prior. Also thinking about getting ITC-100 to top off on the forge to get as much performance as I can from it. Also need to pick up a box of fire bricks and modify my forge stand better. 

My 6 tongs came with nice color detailed instructions that even a brute like myself could follow.

What ever you beat on is an anvil, right? I’ve got some 4” hardwood planks to cut down and make an anvil stand. I’m planning on making it a little bigger in case I get a regular anvil down the road too.

 

[TWISTEDWILLOW]

Howdy from eastern Oklahoma! 

looks like you got the basics covered forge,anvil, tongs, 

 Can’t wait to see you projects! Have fun an be safe! 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Welcome from the Ozark mountains.

Instead of ITC-100, I would use Plistix-900F it is less expensive and works better in forges. It is available through the IFI store too.

[George N. M.]

Welcome aboard, glad to have you.  I'm familiar with your area since my grandparents lived in Duluth and I've spent a lot of time in that area.

Good hammer technique means not swinging hard but let the hammer head and gravity do the work while you control it.  The hardest part on the shoulder is lifting the hammer.  Lots of forging involves short, accurate blows, not really whapping it hard.  A lot of us are older and have learned work arounds to accommodate not having the power or strength we had in the past.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand." 

[Frosty]

Welcome aboard, glad to have you. Do you have a nick name, handle, etc. we may address you by? OuchThatsHOT is appropriate but a little cumbersome for casual conversation. It reminds me of an ancient blacksmith saying I made up a couple years ago, "Carpe Terminus Frigis." 

Ditto, go with Plistex, Glenn sells small quantities for reasonable in the Iforge store, the button is at the top of the page.

When you pick up a couple bricks to get your forge up off the table buy or order some Morgan Ceramics K-26 insulating fire bricks to make a door baffle. The K-26 aren't the heat sink hard fire brick is and they're much easier to move so you can modify the opening as you go.

An angle iron trough across the front of the forge along the bottom allows you to slide the IFBs (Insulating Fire Brick) and or stack them to fit what you're doing. 

An old curmudgeon trick to help save the joints is to learn to hold the hammer loosely and crack it like a fishing rod rather than reach for the sky and slam in into the work. Every joint is a force multiplier use them so whip the hammer. The other benefit besides more powerful blows is much less shock force being transmitted up your arm.

NO thumb on top of the hammer handle!

Frosty The Lucky.

[OuchThatsHot]

Plistex it will be, thanks for the suggestions. I do like that it’s a bit more than just a wash.

Possibly it could fill in some of the hairline cracks that appeared after the Satanite dried. Maybe these cracks really are not an issue.

 

Now that I know there is likely some trapped moisture still in the insulating blanket between the stainless shell and Satanite. Should I drill a couple 1/8 - 1/4” holes near the edge by the stainless in the Satanite to help release steam? Once I know my forge is all dry, I’ll get the Plistex ordered.

Would there be a better size from one over another in what is available for K-26 insulating bricks? My local places only have the fireplace bricks so it will be an on-line order.

 

Thanks for the warm Welcome.

“Ouch” for short.

Everyone likes pics. These were some of my inspiration to keep poking at it. A friend donated the stand, the propane tank was intended for another project but might go towards a second forge, and some freebie hand me down hammers. I bought the newer book and the other two were given to me.

 

[OuchThatsHot]

First bending of steel for me. Making an anvil stand, a more secure forge stand, and insulating firebricks will be a priority. My shoulder worked out ok for hammering. Looks like this is going to be a go for me.

[Frosty]

You're folding that up nicely, have plans for it?

If you stand another brick on the close end of your forge it'll get hotter. The more you can close them up without inhibiting burner performance while allowing you access the better.

Frosty The Lucky

[OuchThatsHot]

On 12/11/2021 at 6:52 PM, Frosty said:

You're folding that up nicely, have plans for it?

Not necessarily I wanted to test out hammering with both hands also test leaving the rail loose. The rail needs to clearly be secured so it works in my favor vs moving around. 

[Frosty]

I forgot to mention in the PM, fireplace brick is isn't rated anywhere nearly hot enough for a propane forge. Most aren't rated to 1,000f. 

Standing bricks on end for the door baffles works well, you just need more of them. Two front and back will allow you to close off all but enough for the stock and exhaust gasses while trapping as much heat IN the forge as possible. Heating the inside of the door baffles to incandescent temps means they are radiating IR back into the forge just like the forge walls. 

Wide open like that forge is designed simply allows burning fuel to blow out the openings and heat the room. Keeping as much flame INSIDE the forge as long as possible without inhibiting burner performance is called hang time. The longer the flame hangs IN the forge the more energy is transferred to the forge walls to be radiated to your work where you want it.

Frosty The Lucky

[ThomasPowers]

My first thoughts as well---"Where are the firebrick doors open just enough for the stock/exhaust to go through?!"

[OuchThatsHot]

A box of K-26 insulating bricks are here. Next I’ll fabricate a framework to utilize them as doors. Still need to get Plistex ordered.

[JHCC]

A shelf to stack them on in various configurations might be preferable.

[OuchThatsHot]

Great suggestion. I’ve got some recycled thinner gauge wide angle iron that should work well for making a stable stacking platform for the forge ends.

Edited December 23, 2021 by Mod34
Excessive quoting

[JHCC]

Best is something that allows for multiple configurations, to accommodate different forging jobs.

One of the nice things about a gas forge is that once you have the temperature dialed in, you can work multiples without having to worry about any of them burning up in the fire:

[ThomasPowers]

Or melting!  I had someone tell me that propane forges don't get as hot as solid fuel forges.  I told them that I had accidentally melted my workpiece in my propane forge---how much hotter did it need to get?

[swedefiddle]

OuchThatsHot= OTH

Take your time, time yourself with a Calendar. You are heating the world, close up those ends and you can heat your material. Lay a brick on your hearth, stand 1 or 2 bricks to partially block the door (you have to let exhaust escape). You could put 2 short pieces on either side, with one or two bricks laying flat to block the opening, This will leave you an area near the floor that you can move your work in and out of.

More than one way to skin a Forge!!

Neil